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  #1  
Old 10-03-2015, 06:07 AM
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Changing CDI Fuel Filter

The recommended interval for the fuel filter on the CDI is every 26k miles. However, what I've typically done with the W124 and W210 is simply wait till the car feels sluggish. It's usually pretty obvious and sudden. If it's been a while and I'm about to go on a long trip, I may change it just to be safe.

Is there any reason not to adopt this policy with the CDI? It's a different configuration: just one filter instead of a main and pre. So I was wondering if there's any downside to a longer interval.
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14 E250 Bluetec 4Matic "Sinclair", Palladium Silver on Black, 159k miles
06 E320 CDI "Rutherford", Black on Tan, 179k mi, Stage 1 tune, tuned TCU
91 300D "Otis", Smoke Silver on Tan, 145k mi, wastegate conversion, ALDA delete

19 Honda CR-V EX 77k mi
Fourteen other MB's owned and sold
1961 Very Tolerant Wife
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  #2  
Old 10-03-2015, 07:21 AM
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Do what Mercedes says to do. Different creature with the high pressure pump and direct injection injectors. You don't ever want to have to purchase any of the parts associated with the fueling $system if you can help it.
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  #3  
Old 10-03-2015, 08:43 AM
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On the w211 om642 bluetec they specified 20k miles. It's effectively every other oil service, same as your number. I believe this was later revised to 40k - every 4th service. The fuel filter is also the water separator. I think this is why they were so conservative on the change interval.

Does the om648 filter have a water sensor that is swapped to the new filter? That thing has always given me fits on the bluetec, it likes to leak. The new filter comes with fresh o-rings for the water sensor. I put in a Hengst this past summer. The o-rings just failed, it was literally spraying diesel under the hood. I replaced them with a couple of fuel system rated o-rings from the local parts store and all is good. The Hengst rings look like they were not rated for fuel system use, they appear eaten away and are hard rather than pliable. Never had this kind of inconvenience on the older cars.
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  #4  
Old 10-03-2015, 08:45 AM
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Change the fuel filter filter every other oil change. This is a completely different fuel system than 60x and 61x motors.
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2012 S350 BlueTEC 4Matic
2007 ML 320 CDI
2007 Leisure Travel Serenity
2006 Sprinter 432k
2005 E320 CDI
1998 SLK230 (teal)
1998 SLK230 (silver)
1996 E300D 99k, 30k on WVO
Previous:
1983 240D, on WVO
1982 300D, on WVO
1983 300CD, on WVO
1986 300SDL 237k, 25k on WVO (Deerslayer)
1991 350SDL 249k, 56k on WVO - Retired to a car spa in Phoenix
1983 380 SEC w/603 diesel, 8k on WVO
1996 E300D 351k, 177k on WVO
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  #5  
Old 10-03-2015, 10:04 AM
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My opinion on fuel filters. Take it for what it is worth, not much. I try to change my filters every year unless I have performance issues. Filters are put there to catch trash that gets in the tank from dirty fuel. If you always get clean fuel you don't need to change the filter. If you get dirty fuel the day after you change the filter, then you will have to change it again.
The engine will tell you when to change the filter.

PaullM
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  #6  
Old 10-03-2015, 10:48 AM
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^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^
Fuel gets "dirty" by itself in the fuel tank. If your tank is less than full then there is air in the tank. The temp change from day to night causes water to condense in the tank- if the tank is near empty over a long time period then you may have lots of water condensing. This water forms a water/fuel surface where growth of microbes can and does occur.
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  #7  
Old 10-03-2015, 11:14 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by shertex View Post
The recommended interval for the fuel filter on the CDI is every 26k miles. However, what I've typically done with the W124 and W210 is simply wait till the car feels sluggish. It's usually pretty obvious and sudden. If it's been a while and I'm about to go on a long trip, I may change it just to be safe.

Is there any reason not to adopt this policy with the CDI? It's a different configuration: just one filter instead of a main and pre. So I was wondering if there's any downside to a longer interval.
In general with Filters as they plug up they Filter better closer to the end.

Does that damage or shorten the life of something else? I can only say it does not seem to damge anything on other Filtered equipment.

The main issue with letting the Filter go till performance drops is you could end up on the side of the Road and maybe in bad weather changing the Filter.

If the Filter is expensive perhaps another cheaper Flter could ge added to the system.

I also wait till my Car has performance issues or somthing like 5 years has passed.
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Old 10-03-2015, 11:20 AM
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Hmmm....I was going to buy a Hengst. Maybe I should splurge and buy MB branded?
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14 E250 Bluetec 4Matic "Sinclair", Palladium Silver on Black, 159k miles
06 E320 CDI "Rutherford", Black on Tan, 179k mi, Stage 1 tune, tuned TCU
91 300D "Otis", Smoke Silver on Tan, 145k mi, wastegate conversion, ALDA delete

19 Honda CR-V EX 77k mi
Fourteen other MB's owned and sold
1961 Very Tolerant Wife
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  #9  
Old 10-03-2015, 02:09 PM
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Do I need to fill the new filter with diesel before installing? Can I use ATF, or is that too "old school" for the OM648?
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14 E250 Bluetec 4Matic "Sinclair", Palladium Silver on Black, 159k miles
06 E320 CDI "Rutherford", Black on Tan, 179k mi, Stage 1 tune, tuned TCU
91 300D "Otis", Smoke Silver on Tan, 145k mi, wastegate conversion, ALDA delete

19 Honda CR-V EX 77k mi
Fourteen other MB's owned and sold
1961 Very Tolerant Wife
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  #10  
Old 10-03-2015, 02:42 PM
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  #11  
Old 10-03-2015, 03:40 PM
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I always fill it with diesel fuel.
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  #12  
Old 10-03-2015, 04:34 PM
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No need to fill it. Just turn the key to the "run" position, wait 30 seconds, and then start the car. The electric lift pump will fill the filter. Car will start and run without the slightest hiccup.

If mb used the newer clic type hose clamps, be sure to use the same type. Screw type clamps will eventually leak. A reasonable set of clic pliers can be had for twenty bucks from Amazon.
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  #13  
Old 10-03-2015, 05:03 PM
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I think PO has screw type clamps on there...shall I convert to clic?
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14 E250 Bluetec 4Matic "Sinclair", Palladium Silver on Black, 159k miles
06 E320 CDI "Rutherford", Black on Tan, 179k mi, Stage 1 tune, tuned TCU
91 300D "Otis", Smoke Silver on Tan, 145k mi, wastegate conversion, ALDA delete

19 Honda CR-V EX 77k mi
Fourteen other MB's owned and sold
1961 Very Tolerant Wife
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  #14  
Old 10-03-2015, 09:42 PM
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Yes you should definitely use the proper Oetiker clamps and OE filter.

The car has an electrical fuel delivery pump, you do not need to pre-fill like you do on IDI engines. Switch on and wait 20-30 seconds and you will be good to start.

This is tracked on my W164's maintenance tracker system as Job 11, be sure to reset this in the service menu.
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2013 E350 Bluetec (my DD)

both my kids cars went to junkyard in 2023
2008 ML320 CDI (Older son’s DD) fatal transmission failure, water soaked/fried rear SAM, numerous other issues, just too far gone to save (165k miles)
2008 E320 Bluetec (Younger son's DD) injector failed open and diluted oil with diesel, spun main bearings (240k miles)

1998 E300DT sold to TimFreeh
1987 300TD sold to vstech

Last edited by jay_bob; 10-03-2015 at 09:47 PM. Reason: Added service menu comment
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  #15  
Old 10-08-2015, 07:00 AM
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Interestingly, the dealer where I get all my MB branded parts (Gainesville, FL) use screw clamps....techs said the prefer over clic.
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14 E250 Bluetec 4Matic "Sinclair", Palladium Silver on Black, 159k miles
06 E320 CDI "Rutherford", Black on Tan, 179k mi, Stage 1 tune, tuned TCU
91 300D "Otis", Smoke Silver on Tan, 145k mi, wastegate conversion, ALDA delete

19 Honda CR-V EX 77k mi
Fourteen other MB's owned and sold
1961 Very Tolerant Wife
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