New 300CD Owner; Suffering from Pototypical Issues

[AKCapt.]

Hello All; this seems like an excellent community with a wealth of technical knowledge...

Recently acquired a 1984 300CD; approximately 240K miles on the odometer. I state approximately, as it's currently not turning over.

That being said, I love the car. I finally "get" the old diesel Mercedes thing. Starts after one revolution of the starter - even in sub-freezing temps - good compression, and highway mileage in the mid 30's. Looking at the condition of most of the hoses in the engine bay, I'm under the assumption that someone had recently gone through the systems before I purchased it. Tags still on the radiator hoses, new wiring, etc...

That being said; it's on old vehicle. Paint job sucks (was a budget job), molding is bowed, interior could use some love - and most if not all of the rubber seals are totally shot.

It did come with Lorinser Type 90s; which are apparently something special in the MB world...

First plan is to replace the rear glass gasket. It's clearly failed - and it's causing the rear floorboards and the trunk area to become inundated with water.

My question is this:

Based on the cracking in the upper portion of the glass (sorry, crap iPhone photos) - should I source a new rear glass before attempting to remove my current one? Is it even worth my effort to try and salvage the existing glass and re-install it with a new gasket?

I have one area of rust on the lower left hand corner (based on my research, this seems to be very common). It's literally the only rust on the car. I love the PNW. It seems to just be some moisture intrusion underneath the paint, don't think there is a whole lot of actual metal wastage going on. I'd have to sand and prime that area before a new gasket got installed.

Regards, and thanks for any suggestions.

- Jake

[vstech]

... DEFINITELY DO NOT TRY REMOVING GLASS!

[vstech]

The CD is a rare vehicle, it could take a while to find the glass.

As for the odometer, it's a simple fix. Dieselgiant.com has a nice writeup on pulling and taking apart the odometer.

[vstech]

Although I don't glue the fix, I use vice grips to knurle the slipping shift for a permanent fix.

[vstech]

Keep this in mind...

Once you fix the odometer you may not like the economy you think you are getting.

These cars top out around 28mpg.

[resto108]

This raises an interesting question: Did MB use laminated rear windows? My wagon has a tempered hatch glass, but haven't really paid attention to the 126 or 123 sedan.

[vstech]

126, yes... 123, some yes, some no...

[Ray_R]

If you try to remove that glass, it WILL break.

[rocky raccoon]

on removing the rear glass (and the front). The coupes have unique glass all around that can be difficult to find and expensive.

I have replaced the front windshield on my coupe and r&r the rear to repair a leak caused by rust-out of the channel similar to what you have. In both cases, I was pleased to have a professional glass shop do the r&r mainly for the liability and expertise.

When you remove the rear, be prepared to find your channel more rusted than you think. A competent body shop can rebuild that channel for a reasonable cost. In my case it was $200 plus $100 for the r&r. It also provided an additional level of liability since they sub-contracted the r&r to the glass shop. The major cost was the new rubber gasket. It cost more than the bodywork. If you really like the car as much as I like mine, it is worth it. Living with the leak will lead to serious rust-out problems in the trunk area.

The front windshield was replaced because of breakage. A new windshield was fairly easy to find so long as you are not hard over on factory original. The gasket on that one was not so expensive but it turns out that I did not need a new one anyway.

I get the 28mpg in combined country road and town driving although I have seen slightly over 30mpg in non-stop highway driving. It is my daily driver with 319000 miles and no sign of flagging.

[AKCapt.]

Thanks for the informative replies, all...

Yes - as I said on another forum; my mileage numbers were hopeful at best, asinine more realistically...

I may try and pull apart the speedo at some point and remedy the issue. Of course, it also has 16" Lorinser Type 90 wheels, which will introduce another variability into the system since the car wasn't geared for the larger wheel/tire combination.

My assumption about the rear glass being extremely delicate in it's current state was indeed true - and removal would most certainly result in a thousand little pieces...

I'll have some time to devote to it once I get my clutch back into my pickup. Can't afford to have two down vehicles.

Again,

Thanks.

[PARSHOOT1]

Nice car. Congrats on the purchase. Lorinsers are great.

[rocky raccoon]

is not a sure thing. Mine came out and went back in with no problem. Entrust it to a professional though.

[charmalu]

PNW I assume the Portland or Seattle area. Lots of rain up there.

AS mentioned Coupes are rare and the parts are expensive.
If you an find the door gaskets and the seal for the door glass, might cost as much as you paid for the coupe.
The good part is, everything forward of the Dash and the whole suspension is the same as the Sedan.

I would start checking the PNP`s in your area on a weekly basis and check on CL for any cheap coupes. Maybe some wrecks.

The rust you see isn`t the problem, it is the rust you don`t see.
I pulled a rear glass out of a 85 300CD several years ago in PNP. Car had some rust, but
none showed around the glass. When I pulled it, the whole pinch weds was totally rusted out.

The speedometer is a really easy fix. as VSTECH said, forget the glue, and use VG to crimp in some ridges on the shaft.
There is a Pot metal gear that slips that is the cause of the problem. I use a 6" needle Nose VG to put in some good ridges.

http://dieselgiant.com/mercedes_diesel_maintenance_tips.htm


Charlie

[cfh]

I successfully pulled front and rear glass from a coupe at the junkyard - it was a really hot day though which was miserable but probably helped make the seals more pliable - I got the glass out with the seals intact (they were still good). I started at the sides and gently pried and pushed the seal out from the inside of the car. Use a dull screwdriver or scraper to work the seal out and something wide and smooth to keep it from popping back in as you move around the top of the windshield. The glass comes out (and goes back in) with the metal trim in place. If the seals had not been good I would have just sliced them away from the inside with a sharp knife or Stanley cutter tool.