Glow plug relay, 1982 300D Turbo

[mattc]

82 300D Turbo. After 117,000 miles, the glow plug relay gave up the ghost. It is stuck on! What would y'all consider the best option: A new Huco $110.00, a new Hella $173.00 (both from this website "Buy Parts"). A used one - various sources, for between $30.00 - $60.00 OR has anyone ever repaired one (not that I would have any idea how to do that!), or is there anyone who does repair/refurbish these?
I'm leaning towards NEW. Is there a valid reason to spend the $63.00 more for the Hella, over the Huco?
Thanks in advance for your replys/opinions/experiences. Matt

[funola]

I have a good used one for $45 + shipping.
pm me if interested.

[sassparilla_kid]

I just bought a Ford starter solenoid when mine died, and hooked it up to a button in the cab. Now I can control how long the plugs glow for depending on the weather, and the solenoid only costs ~$13 new from O'Reilly. I would spend an extra couple dollars though and get a 30 amp fuse to put in-line, so you don't damage the solenoid. (mine died the other day after about 3 years with no fuse, replacing took about 3 minutes)

[kerry]

Originally Posted by sassparilla_kid

I just bought a Ford starter solenoid when mine died, and hooked it up to a button in the cab. Now I can control how long the plugs glow for depending on the weather, and the solenoid only costs ~$13 new from O'Reilly. I would spend an extra couple dollars though and get a 30 amp fuse to put in-line, so you don't damage the solenoid. (mine died the other day after about 3 years with no fuse, replacing took about 3 minutes)

X25. God put a perfectly good timer in your head and MB never improved upon it. Plus, if you hide the button, nobody's going to be able to start your engine and steal the car.

I did try to clean up the contacts in a relay once. Ineffective.

[mach4]

Likewise with the Ford solenoid.

I did however, modify the old glow plug solenoid so I could use the fuse out of it and the engine glow plug harness. That way it looks completely stock and when I pull the engine I can just unplug the harness.

[kerry]

Originally Posted by mach4

Likewise with the Ford solenoid.

I did however, modify the old glow plug solenoid so I could use the fuse out of it and the engine glow plug harness. That way it looks completely stock and when I pull the engine I can just unplug the harness.

Got a picture or a wiring description?

[mach4]

Originally Posted by kerry

Got a picture or a wiring description?

Sure.



Here's what's left of the relay once I eliminated everything but the connectors.



It's now a direct connection from the power in to the pins of the engine harness. Then just run a wire from your solenoid to the power input of the modified glow relay.

The one little tricky thing is to notice that there is one pin that connects through a device in the middle of a loop. Just be careful not to disrupt that or you'll need to solder a wire to connect it to the connector.

The final step is to fill the unit with urethane to prevent shorts etc. Here is that step which involves cutting down the case.



Here's the unit mounted in the car (mine is a 380SL with a diesel, so yours will look different - like the original mounting point!)





Hope this helps.

[Diesel911]

I also did the Ford type Solenoid thing on my Volvo Diesel. I even used a used Solenoid at the J Yard for $5. And I have had Zero bad issues with the system.

Square Glow Plug Connector
#1 Red Wire with White Stripe, Run Start Input
#2 Violet (Purple) Connects to the Starter Solenoid Wire (On Turbo Models at the Terminal Block in front of the Battery) allows Glow plugs to be on during Cranking.
#3 Blue Wire with White Stripe, Goes to the Glow Plug Light. The Voltage comes from the Relay through the Light and to a Ground.
#4 Brown Wire, Goes to ground.

If you do not want to ad another Switch:
If you connected the Starter Solenoid to the Red Wire when you turn the Key to the Preglow Position it would activate the Solenoid.
If you wanted the Glow plug Light to go on at the same time I think you would connect the Blue Wire with the White Strip to the same Terminal on the Solenoid that the Red Wire goes to.

I have no Fuse in My System; if you want one ad one.

[MTUpower]

Originally Posted by Diesel911

I also did the Ford type Solenoid thing on my Volvo Diesel. I even used a used Solenoid at the J Yard for $5. And I have had Zero bad issues with the system.

Square Glow Plug Connector
#1 Red Wire with White Stripe, Run Start Input
#2 Violet (Purple) Connects to the Starter Solenoid Wire (On Turbo Models at the Terminal Block in front of the Battery) allows Glow plugs to be on during Cranking.
#3 Blue Wire with White Stripe, Goes to the Glow Plug Light. The Voltage comes from the Relay through the Light and to a Ground.
#4 Brown Wire, Goes to ground.

If you do not want to ad another Switch:
If you connected the Starter Solenoid to the Red Wire when you turn the Key to the Preglow Position it would activate the Solenoid.
If you wanted the Glow plug Light to go on at the same time I think you would connect the Blue Wire with the White Strip to the same Terminal on the Solenoid that the Red Wire goes to.

I have no Fuse in My System; if you want one ad one.

Do you or does someone else have a pic of the Ford solenoid modification ? My stock glow plug relay stays on for only 6 seconds and when cold the engine stumbles a bit for the first 30 seconds.

[vstech]

Originally Posted by MTUpower

Do you or does someone else have a pic of the Ford solenoid modification ? My stock glow plug relay stays on for only 6 seconds and when cold the engine stumbles a bit for the first 30 seconds.

make sure you understand what is happening.

the glow LIGHT on the dashboard has no relation to how long the glow plugs are powered.

the light is just an indicator letting you know they have been turned on, and it extinguishes LONG before the glow plugs do.

watch the cabin light when you turn on the key, it dims when you power the plugs, and it does not brighten until the plugs shut off... often around 45 seconds after you turn the key.

[MTUpower]

Originally Posted by vstech

make sure you understand what is happening.

the glow LIGHT on the dashboard has no relation to how long the glow plugs are powered.

the light is just an indicator letting you know they have been turned on, and it extinguishes LONG before the glow plugs do.

watch the cabin light when you turn on the key, it dims when you power the plugs, and it does not brighten until the plugs shut off... often around 45 seconds after you turn the key.

I hope you've posted that for others to know how the glow system works; I've been a w123 owner for 14 years. The plugs are all working units but the relay is not operating as designed. My plugs stay on for less than 6 seconds- I've a helper turn the key- while at the relay you can both hear and feel the relay switching on and then off within 6 seconds. I currently do not have a spare relay but will look in the yards here soon. W123 are not showing up like they used to anymore...

So please as I asked- post more info about my previous request. thanks.

[will_t]

Originally Posted by MTUpower

Do you or does someone else have a pic of the Ford solenoid modification ? My stock glow plug relay stays on for only 6 seconds and when cold the engine stumbles a bit for the first 30 seconds.

Vstech is correct on all points.

The glow plug relay in an '84 w123 sedan I bought and re-sold did that - stayed on for 6 seconds or less. I replaced it with a used unit I bought off a well known auction site. Once replaced everything was fine. The PO had no idea why it would not start in the Colorado winter cold. I even found cans of starting spray stuff in the trunk. Glad no damage was done! If you listen carefully you can hear the glow plug relay "pop" when it shuts power off to the plugs. In most of my cars it's about 18 - 20 seconds after the seat belt warning buzzer stops buzzing. You can also see a subtle change in the brightness of the "idiot" lights along the bottom of the instrument cluster - the brake and battery indicator lights. They brighten ever so slightly when the power to the glows stops. That's the hottest point in the cycle and my cars like to be started at that point. Some people start the OM617 that way no matter what the engine temp - or outside temp for that matter. I always run the full cycle on cold (engine) start and when starting the engine already at operating temp, I wait until the seat belt warning buzzer stops and then hit it. That's maybe 10 seconds or so. I pay no attention whatsoever to the glow plug light on the dash. Hope this helps!

[BillGrissom]

Kind of late for the OP, but for others I suggest you grab a glow plug relay box and other boxes at the junkyard for the future. Paying $5 now is better than $300 when you must have it. That is the only way to affordably maintain these cars. I have at least one spare g.p. relay. My problem is forgetting what I have. Last time, I grabbed a TemperatureRegular box because so easy, then found I already have 2 spares. The problem with those is they seem to fail predictably the same way (aged tantalum capacitors) so a spare is more for a rebuild. I haven't read that g.p. relay boxes suffer a similar endemic failure.

[mattc]

Thought it odd this popped up now, seeing as I posted in 2012. I was the orig. poster; I guess I'm 'subscribed'. I did end up picking up 1 (+1 spare) from the parts yard.
I like what DenverW123 was saying about wiring the glow plug light to tell you when they're ON. That way, if the relay gets stuck, like mine did, it won't (possibly{?}) take out the battery/alternator/voltage regulator.
Need to update sig. below, car now has 124,000 miles on it.

[vwnate1]

For having the patience to listen to my error and teach me .

" You are confused with the words used in this discussion."

I certainly was .

It took me until to - day to replace the bulb in my old test light and power test the glow plugs with it as SWMBO was shopping , the glow plugs power is cut as soon as the starter begins to operate .

I'm STILL waiting over ten days for Peach {arts to find a driver's side ATE caliper.....

They've been very good about calling me on the 'phone with up dates (nothing new) but having the car out of service this long is a real PIA .

I may have to go hunt up a good used left front ATE caliper and install it so I can get the car back on the road then replace it whenever the rebuilt one comes in .