Well, thanks to Bill Grissom's (and others) input, I got the shut off valve installed properly. Two days ago. And yesterday I installed the plastic washers in the shifter. So it starts in Park like designed and, when I turn the key off, the engine goes off too. Been driving it most of the day today and it seems to work.

Here are some comments and missteps to avoid in installing the shut off valve:

1. Tape or tie up the VAV. Unlike what DieselGiant said it will not lie on top of the oil cannister. It was in the way much of the time before I taped it up.

2. Do not forget to reuse the thick metal washer on the shut off valve. Use one fabric washer on either side of the metal washer. If you do not, the shut off valve will not tighten against the back of the injection pump. I forgot the first time.

3. Comment - I thought the bump on the bottom of the shut off valve would fit in the slot at the bottom of the injection pump snugly like a key. Not so. At least for me. I twisted the shut off valve back and forth (maybe half an inch or more) thinking I would feel it snap in and that would give me the proper orientation. Did not happen. Should have paid more attention to the orientation of the outside vaccum nipple on the old shut off valve before I removed it. Looked at the pics I took before starting the job and it was not quite perpendicular so I twisted the entire shut off valve just a bit off top dead center toward the drivers side. Just enough that it cleared the ALDA cover (which I had twisted 90 degrees so I could look inside); I believe straight up the shut off valve would have not allowed the ALDA cover to twist back in place because the cover has one hole which protrudes somewhat outside the ALDA cover frame.

4. With the ALDA cover twisted you can easily see that the arm of the new shut off valve is outside (nearer the front of the engine) the internal linkage and by applying vaccum to the nipple you can see that it will pull on the internal linkage. However you can twist the shut off valve quite a bit back and forth and orient the arm quite a bit even to the point that it misses the linkage. I assumed it was supposed to be about in the middle when it pulled back so that is where I left it. Was not sure that was right - especially since the bump on the bottom did not help with the orientation - and was concerned that it might not work right. But after buttoning it up, it worked fine. Engine turned off just right.

5. There is really enough room to work, especially if you use a Mityvac to pull in the arm of the old shut off valve to get it out. Fortunately my old valve held some vaccum and I got it out fine. Same with installing the new shut off valve. Pull the arm in with the Mityvac and it will angle in fine. Since the ALDA cover was twisted 90 degrees it was easy to to see that the arm went in right when the vac was released.

6. I found that DieselGiant was right that a rattlecan top would shut off air to the engine in case of a runaway engine. I misinterpreted what they called the turbo inlet. What you do is remove the smooth plastic (4-5 inch?) horseshoe shaped tube from the turbo and you find the turbo inlet. The top fits pretty well on the bottom inlet which goes to the turbo; it does not fit on the top inlet nor on the air cleaner inlet. Fortunately I did not have a runaway and I did not need it.

In all it took me four hours. I could do it again in probably one hour. Guess that is what you call a learning curve.

Thanks again to Bill Grissom and the others who provided invaluable input. The DieselGiant write up and pictures were also a great help.