<sigh> Another "240D Won't Start Thread"

[Redpeople]

A bit of background:

I've owned my 240D for a couple of months, and it had started and run beautifully up until a few weeks ago (when it got cold). Over the last few weeks, I've had two instances where it wouldn't start after being left out for the day in 10-15F temperatures. The first time, I was able to start it when it warmed up the next day. Last week, I had the same problem and wasn't able to get it started even after a few days. During that process, the pre-glow eventually quit working (no light and no glow). I had it towed home to my garage.

After some initial misdiagnosis, I determined that the #4 glowplug had burned out, breaking the circuit and preventing any plugs from glowing. I replaced that plug yesterday, and the pre-glow circuit now works (light back on and power at all the plugs).

However, it still won't start. It starts to fire, but won't catch and keep running. The temp in my garage is probably 35F, and it previously had no problem starting at that temp.

I have noticed one thing that is different. Whereas before, the pre-glow light stayed lit and glowed solid until it turned off, it now glows solid for maybe 15 seconds, then starts to flicker a little, then goes mostly completely out with just a little flicker. When I go to crank, the glow light comes back on sometimes and flickers off and on.

In the interest of full disclosure, the replacement glow plug was the universally reviled Autolite brand. I ordered it over the phone from my local NAPA and didn't realize what I was getting until it arrived a few days later. Still, I wouldn't think it would make that big a difference. Maybe I'm wrong.

Where do I go from here?

[tyl604]

Are you running light weight oil, say 5 or 15? Does the engine turn fast enough to start and run? Might give it a try if your glow plugs are working. Any chance you got air in the fuel line?

[Assault]

Have you checked your engine compression? Also do you have a block heater?
The only way I've been able to get this engine to fire without a block heater under 30 degrees is to crank the starter for at least 30 seconds until the engine coughs to life, hence why I leave it plugged in.
With a block heater and the engine warm I let the glow plugs complete a full cycle then, I start another cycle and once the lights goes out I start the car right up, as if it were a summer day.

How is your starter, and what is the battery life?

[Redpeople]

All good suggestions. Oil is Rotella 5w-40 synthetic, recently changed. Battery indicates it was new in June 2014. I've been putting the charger on it to make sure it's fully charging. It's possible it's not all that great, because when I bought it I had to replace the alternator, so I suspect the PO had left it discharged for a while and just charged it for the sale. It seems to be cranking fast enough.

It does have a block heater and I tried that for a couple hours last night with no difference. I'll try it overnight tonight. I'm not 100% sure it works. Previously, I was able to easily start without the block heater at 20F.

It's possible there is air in the system, but not sure how it would have gotten in there. I did try pumping the hand primer some, with no effect. If there's anything else I should try to bleed the fuel system, let me know.

What has me flummoxed is that it started so well before the glow plug issue. It seems something else must have gone wrong but I'm not sure what.

Thanks for the help.

[Strand]

Originally Posted by Assault

Have you checked your engine compression? Also do you have a block heater?
The only way I've been able to get this engine to fire without a block heater under 30 degrees is to crank the starter for at least 30 seconds until the engine coughs to life, hence why I leave it plugged in.
With a block heater and the engine warm I let the glow plugs complete a full cycle then, I start another cycle and once the lights goes out I start the car right up, as if it were a summer day.

How is your starter, and what is the battery life?

Is this a OM616-specific issue (loop plugs maybe?), or are OM617s better at starting in the cold?

My mechanic suggested that I always leave the block heater plugged in during the winter, but that's simply impossible to do when you're parked on the street in a different space every night. Nonetheless, my car stars within a couple of cranks after a full glow plug cycle, even when the temperatures are down in the 20s.

[Strand]

Originally Posted by Redpeople

It's possible there is air in the system, but not sure how it would have gotten in there. I did try pumping the hand primer some, with no effect. If there's anything else I should try to bleed the fuel system, let me know.

If you somehow got air into your hard lines, you might need to bleed those as well (this happened to me once after a long drive for no apparent reason).

See post #7 here: Bleeding Fuel Lines on 1993 300D W124

[Redpeople]

I will try bleeding the lines. Can't hurt.

[Mölyapina]

How are you starting the engine? I just got a 240D, and I've been working on developing a cold-start routine. This is what I'm doing right now: glowing the plugs for maybe 15 seconds (I have jury-rigged manual glows), then hitting the starter with the plugs still on while holding the accelerator to the floor. Eventually, after 10-15 seconds of very weak cranking, I will see some black smoke rising up at the manifold (I have an underhood exhaust leak, different issue) that tells me that fuel is starting to burn, and about then the cranking gets a bit faster and eventually a cylinder starts to fire. Soon after, another cylinder catches, then another. I don't let off the starter until all cylinders are firing, and then I back off the accelerator slowly.

[Redpeople]

Moly-

A few weeks ago when it was actually STARTING it was pretty simple. I would let it go through a glow cycle (or two if it was below 25). Then I would give it just a little fuel and crank. It would start right up. I'd then keep a little pressure on the accelerator for about 30 seconds while the idle smoothed out. Then ready to roll. Now I'm cranking and giving it a lot of fuel with no success. Like you, I get black smoke, but never starts.

[t walgamuth]

I'd get a bosch plug. I think you still are having some glow lack. What year is the car? Is it the loop plugs?

[Mölyapina]

Originally Posted by Redpeople

Moly-

A few weeks ago when it was actually STARTING it was pretty simple. I would let it go through a glow cycle (or two if it was below 25). Then I would give it just a little fuel and crank. It would start right up. I'd then keep a little pressure on the accelerator for about 30 seconds while the idle smoothed out. Then ready to roll. Now I'm cranking and giving it a lot of fuel with no success. Like you, I get black smoke, but never starts.

Sounds like your cranking is going all right, then. I think the starter is designed to sustain up to minute straight, after which it needs to cool a bit (don't remember how long -- half a minute? One minute?).

I assume that the valves are in adjustment. You might want to consider upgrading the loop-style plugs to pencil plugs -- Pelican sells them, I'll get you a link.

15 degrees is pretty cold out -- it wouldn't be unreasonable for an engine with a lot of miles not to start well/at all at those temps. Getting some sort of coolant or block heater set up if you don't have one might not be a bad idea.

EDIT: The link to the pencil-style plugs that will fit your car. To install these, you'll need to set up jumper wires between the plugs and discard the ground wire coming off the (first?) plug. It's really simple. My car has these, and started down to high teens/20 even though I haven't touched the valves yet and the oil is 1 quart 10W-30 + unknown (doing a change this weekend).

[Air&Road]

The engine heater serves an important purpose in addition to helping it start. It allows for warm oil that will flow well on startup. In cold weather plug in overnight or a few hours before startup whenever possible.

You really need to start by knowing engine condition. If you have low compression, then glow plug and glow plug well condition, valve adjustment and such things will be more important. Make or buy a reamer and clean the glow plug wells thoroughly.

Hope this helps.

[Diesel911]

As stated the Pencil-style Glow Plugs get a lot hotter and get hot faster.

Lots of Members over the years have said their Engine started easier after the Valves were adjusted.

If you starter ever goes bad members have said a 300D starter cranks faster.

On the internet you can find a chart that tells you how much your Battery voltage drops at specific temps; it is very discourging.

[Air&Road]

Originally Posted by t walgamuth

I'd get a bosch plug. I think you still are having some glow lack. What year is the car? Is it the loop plugs?

I was asking myself the same question, but from reading his post it is clearly an early car with series plugs.

[Alec300SD]

Maybe the fuel has gelled or frozen due to the cold?

It did not start at 10-15 degrees F, but did start when it warmed up the next day.

Is the tank full or nearly empty?

If less than a quarter of a tank you could have too much water in the fuel.

Time to try some Power Service 9-1-1 Diesel Fuel De-Icer and/or maybe some of their cetane booster?

Diesel Fuel Supplement +Cetane Boost | Power Service

Maybe just change out both fuel filters as they can get clogged with wax crystals.

http://www.todaystrucking.com/images/SolvingWinterDieselProblems91-1R2.pdf

Hope this cures your problem.