Waterpump replacement - PeachParts Mercedes-Benz Forum

subman60 · #1 10-31-2016, 04:04 PM

Does the radiator need to be removed to replace the waterpump? If not does removing it make changing the waterpump so much easier that it's worth doing anyway?

chrisgt · #2 10-31-2016, 04:11 PM

on my 84 300td I just removed the fan and the fan shroud, there's plenty of room. Sorry I'm not psychic, though. I have no idea if you'll have room on your car.

subman60 · #3 10-31-2016, 04:29 PM

The Chilton manual I've got says to remove it. But as I've learned sometimes it tells you to do things you can skip. It looks like there would be room. Just wanted clarification from others who have done it before on the w123 240d.

Mike D · #4 10-31-2016, 04:36 PM

Removing the radiator makes it much easier but it can be done with it in place.

I remove it not only because it allows "straight on" access to the bolts but it also allows me to clean the front of the engine. It's also a good time to have the radiator rodded out and checked for leaks.

Rogviler · #5 10-31-2016, 05:53 PM

I've done it with the radiator in place, but the time before that the bolts were totally seized, so everything had to come out so I could wrench on them. One ended up having to be drilled out.

So, just depends on how smooth it goes. With nothing stuck it's a breeze.

-Rog

Diesel911 · #6 10-31-2016, 08:23 PM

On a 617.752 Engine one or more bolts being seized is not uncommon.

When I changed My Water Pump (evidently replaced by the previous owner as it was made in Japan) one of the Bolts/Studs had been previously broken off.

It is the same for the Aluminum part that is between the Water Pump and the Engine Block.

I don't know if that applies to the newer model Engines.

I did not remove the Radiator when I changed mine.

jay_bob · #7 10-31-2016, 08:44 PM

There is a ton of room between the front of the block and radiator on a 240D.

However the bolts holding the water pump to the pump housing are very easy to break. BTDT.

If that happens, then the pump housing behind the pump can be removed fairly easily, if you need to drill out the bolt. Or if you need to swap the housing, it is shared with the 5 cylinder 617 engine so you can find another one in the JY easily.

chrisgt · #8 10-31-2016, 09:30 PM

If there's enough room on a 671 there's gotta be more than ample room on a 616. My bolts were pretty well stuck, too. I used a torque wrench to remove them set at 40 ft/lbs. That way if I applied more than that, it would click and I knew if I tried to go harder I'd break them off. Took a lot of heat, a lot of patience. Once I got them cracked loose I went back and forth many times spraying pb blaster on the threads and just working it in. I probably spent 2 hours getting all the bolts out. However that's way less time and effort than being hasty and breaking them off...

fezcabdriver · #9 11-02-2016, 01:19 PM

I would start with the front crank seal. If that looks to be weeping oil, I would remove radiator and do both. If not, you can do the pump in place. You might as well do the thermo/gasket and bypass tube if that is looking crusty. Actually, maybe the timing chain tensioner spring and gasket... Sorry, I'm about to embark on this myself and figure I might as well list it out.

Charlie Foxtrot · #10 11-04-2016, 11:35 AM

A word of caution if you leave the rad in place: Stick a sheet of cardboard on the engine side of the rad as soon as you get the shroud off. It will save a costly rad replacement when the wrench slips (that inevitable 'Oh Sh*+!' moment in every job that ends with a bloody knuckle). Good luck!