That is why I had the dealer change the plugs on my 642.
Yes it was spendy (we all debated it on this thread)...
http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/diesel-discussion/367295-om642-glow-plug-replacement.html

the only way I would feel safe leaving the GP tip in there is if the part that is remaining in your head has a wider section than the exposed tip.

can you scavenge a used one and carefully remove the outer shiny housing?

Then measure the diameters of the cross sections in your head.

This thread has been strangely silent as of late. ..

Done anything more to the car mikemass? After some thought about the idea of dye water test, I think it may not be worth doing since there are easier tests.

Reasons are:

1. Radiator and block must be drained first.
2. Have to flush and refill system afterwards.

It's easier to do a leak down test I mentioned earlier:
Make a blow gun tip to fit tightly in the 13/64" hole and blow compressed air in while listening at the valve cover oil fill hole (inlet valve must be open) and also look for bubbles in the expansion tank (top it up if empty). If you can hear air escaping or see bubbles in the expansion tank, the hole has breached the pre combustion chamber and the coolant passage in the head. Please report what you find.

The 13/64 hole if the more challenging hole to plug since it involves coolant and combustion gas passages if both were breached. Depending on what you find and where you drilled with the 13/64 bit, it may or may not be possible to plug.

You need to make a more careful probing of the 13/64 hole to determine exactly where you have drilled through and how much of the glow plug body is left (before the glowing portion). Make a drawing with dimensions.

Edit: By cleaning the hole well with brake clean and blow dry with compressed air and looking with a mirror, you may be able to see the different material of the aluminum head and glow plug body and thus where you have drilled. Take some pics also.

In one of the photos it is very clear that the remaining glow plug shaft (how much of it's length, we can't absolutely know) is visible. It is clear where the steel of the GP is in relation to the surrounding aluminum of the head.

Nope, this is correct as described, not sure what that schematic is but not a OM606.

Mine has just been re-assembled along with pre-chambers, might have the odd pic if needed.

That's only because everyone stopped saying the same things over and over. I think it's time to leave the poor guy alone until he makes some progress and reports back.

-Rog

Not sure what you have said there RG, but agree it sure does look like an OM606.

This is the best picture/s I could find, looking down testing glow plugs before re-fitting injectors.

http://i225.photobucket.com/albums/d...0/glowplug.jpg

Guys. Sorry I went radio silent for a while. I came down with a bad stomach bug Friday that knocked the heck out of me. So my weekend was shot. I didn't get a chance to touch the car. Project on hold for now. But I need to re read some of the recent info posted here and decide the course of action to go.

I was under the impression that getting a used head out of a wrecked vehicle at a junk yard was going to run in the upper hundreds to thousands. You guys are talking about a sub $100 head out there? I will look into this option in the meantime too.

LKQ: standard pricing regardless of marque. Check the price lists online, look for yards close to you. Here in Chucktown, ~$65 is the price for an aluminum head with dual camshafts. There are two "tricks": (1) do they have a '98/'99 E300 with a good head and (2) do you have the time / tools to remove it?

I agree....I've only ever seen one non-617 MB diesel here over the last 3 years and that was a 603. There is quite a bit of variation between areas - I think they are more plentiful on the east coast. Definitely worth a try, especially if you've got patience.

Maybe patch up this head to get the car running again, and then patiently watch/wait for a used head to come along?

X2. Agreed, that is a good course of action.

Mike,

Does my drawing below depict what's happened to your cyl. head?

I took your drawing, flipped it so the glow plug is in the same orientation as the cutaway drawing with both on the computer screen, taped a piece of clear cellophane on top of your drawing and drew on it with colored markers.

Orange is the space you have drilled
Green is coolant passages
Purple is pre chamber and injector
Yellow circles are coolant passage areas that have been breached.

http://i31.photobucket.com/albums/c3...418_145831.jpg

Yes and no. Your overlay is pretty accurate. But the angle I depicted when I drew that pic (right side up), was from the perspective if you were looking from the back of the engine bay to the front.

So I drilled below and to the right of the GP. Not above it. I did not breach a coolant passage above the GP. The passage is clearly below it.

Also what the cross section photo doesn't show is what is to the left and right. Onyl above and below. But regardless of what the cross section shows, we know based on my pics that I opened up a passage in the bottom right of my hole.

Here, I made a mirror image and tilted it so it somewhat matches the angle in the cross section diagram. Now you can see I drilled low. But you can see this even more clear in the real photo of the hole(s).

http://i194.photobucket.com/albums/z...f9cf5f7c93.jpg

http://i194.photobucket.com/albums/z...%20plug/GP.jpg

Took your tilted mirror image and tried again. Same color scheme except I added brown (cross hatched) where the 13/64 drill went through part of the glow plug seat/seal on the head. That is a concern since 1/2 of the seat is missing. There is only one coolant breach (yellow circle).

http://i31.photobucket.com/albums/c3...418_195249.jpg

A little off topic but you guys will know where I am going with this question:

Will the cylinder head of a 1995 E300, (which I believe is still a 606 engine), fit on my 606 1999 E300?

I can't imagine there being any difference, other than the cam profile may not be the same. You could use the cams from the turbo head, but would also have to move over the cam followers (buckets, lifters- whatever you want to call them) with the cam in their same position.

Ok guys. This is my plan. While I am keeping my eye out for a used head I am planning on plugging up the hole so I can at least get back to driving this on 5 Glow Plugs. I plan to use a combo of RollGuy's "pack with JB Weld and Plug" from Post # 132 (shown here) and funola's "Lead Plug and Hex bolt" method from Posts # 114 (shown here) & 150 (shown here)

1. What I will first do is clean everything real good with brake clean and dry.
Then tap the large 1/2" to accept a hex bolt. This needs to be a very short bolt and hardened Steel, correct? Not sure where to find something so short. Cut one down?

2. Next I will pack entire opening with J-B Weld HighHeat Epoxy Putty making sure to really push the putty into the 13/64 hole and thoroughly pack the entire area. I will pack enough putty to come into the newly tapped threads I made in step one.

3. While putty is still malleable I will thread in 1/2" hex bolt to really 'push' the putty in deeper, filling every possible crevice.

Let sit 24-48 hours so JB hardens, change oil, flush coolant, button everything up, say a prayer and turn the key.

Concerns I would like some input on:

The lead instead of the JB Weld sounds like a great idea, but I have never melted lead. I'm not sure how I would make an exact mold to fit my exact drill pattern. Will it be cool enough to touch, yet still soft enough to 'mold' into the areas I need to pack? The JB stick will be pliable and soft enough to work with that I think I can fill in the area better.

Will JB Weld harden and cure properly if I am sealing it off while still soft?

The Hex bolt is just a final 'plug' to lock everything in there real tight. I know funola said no pipe thread but the only thing I can envision is this:

http://www.homedepot.com/catalog/pro...9b279_1000.jpg

Can you steer me in the right direction as to what exactly I should use for this?

Anyway. Sound like a plan?

I looked into this while reading your thread, and I think that I read that the valves have thicker diameters on the turbo heads.

EDIT: Here's a link on it:

http://www.superturbodiesel.com/std/showthread.php?tid=3630

I take it back, I think I'm wrong about the valves.

Haha. All good. Thanks for trying to find info. Visually the top of the 1995 606 looks different than the later model 606's. Half the intake manifold goes over the valve cover in the early versions. So I was wondering if the actual head is different. It's fine for now. I am more concerned right now with the patch job. But for future reference I just wanted to know if I can ONLY look for heads coming off the 1996-1999 W210's

The intake manifold is different on the N/A because of the absence of the turbo and intercooler piping, but I believe the head is the same. Also, 1996-7 are N/A, 1998-9 are turbo (North America).

TY RollGuy. Pretty much what I thought. Appreciate the confirmation.

The material you choose for the plug(s) will depend on temperature it will be exposed to. The high temp epoxy will not last if exposed to combustion gas.... the epoxy will slowly burn/erode away till it's all gone. That's why it's important to do the leak down test first, before choosing the plug material.

depending on the working heat range for the product you use in the head, I am willing to stand by that plan.

I think epoxy might be more effective than the lead in this situation - more pliable, more ability to reach tight areas.

My biggest fear is small amounts of moisture reaching the GP end and slowly steam cleaning the carbon out. If you can truly, effectively seal that up, it should last a while.

Good luck.

This is so brutal! How did you manage to deviate the bit so much?

Man you will be able to purchase a 606.962 head from us lot in Europa for a few hundred currencies, and the international shipping is less than that, so less than 500 all in, FYI.

Also, FYI, Europa is the land mass which is located east from US of A, trust me it's there, full of people and everything.

If the 13/64 drill breached combustion gas, neither high temp epoxy or lead will last, (lead will last longer than the epoxy though). If it will see combustion temp, I'd drive a steel set screw to the bottom the 13/64 hole first, then insert a 13/64 lead plug (hammer in to "fit") , then follow with a 1/2" lead plug (hammer in to "fit"), followed with a bolt.

thats true. It just doesn't seem that way from his depths.

He needs to be certain he hasnt drilled into the prechamber.

If I blast air into the small hole (red arrow on my drawing), coolant splashes out all over the place from the large hole (green arrow).

If I place the air blaster in the main opening with a rag over it to seal it in and then let go after a few seconds, then the coolant just rushes back out. Expansion tank too low to get a good sense of what's going on in there.

I really only think we are dealing with a coolant breach, not combustion gas.

You can make a mold for both holes out of wood and the 2 drill bits you used. See this video https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Ep0z710Zl5k

You can shape the lead plugs with a file to fit the hole snugly before inserting. To test the hammering to expand the lead plug, make some extras. Drill a 1/2" hole into a block of aluminum, insert lead plug and use a 1/4" diameter punch to hammer it in all around to expand it in. Tap a screw into the lead plug and try to pull it out of the aluminum block to test.

That's what I have been saying repeatedly.

Have you listened at the valve cover oil fill hole while blasting compressed air into the 1/2" hole? Do this with the coolant expansion cap on. Is your broken fuel heater leaking coolant? If so you need to plug that up before the test.

NOT Yet. Sorry. You did ask me to before I got bedridden last weekend.

Yes, understood and already did this.

Yes, purpose of the bolt is to exert force on the lead plug and lock it in place and allow it to be adjustable.

The reason for no pipe thread is to preclude the possibility of cracking the aluminum head.

You'd want to use something like this:

https://www.fastenal.com/products/details/40852?r=~|categoryl1:%22600000%20Fasteners%22|~%20~|categoryl2:%22600047%20Set%20Screws%22|~%20~|cat egoryl3:%22600049%20Socket%20Set%20Screws%22|~%20~|sattr01:^Metric$|~%20~|sattr04:^%22M12%20-%201.75%22$|~

I'd keep it metric so your same hex sockets work :)

I'm still not sure trusting carbon and Epoxy (or lead) to seal out combustion gasses and coolant is a good idea. You'd be better served by removing the fragments, installing a plug/set screw with lots of red loctite to seal combustion gasses, and then another set screw with blue loctite to seal coolant. Assuming that there is not a breached oil and coolant gallery.

since you have drilled the hole 1/2 inch and some what larger, tap drill the hole to
9/16 then tap with a 3/8 pipe tap test fitting every few turns with the plug
https://www.fastenal.com/products/details/426317?term=3%2F8+hhp
until you get three to four turns of engagement. use teflon sealant and tourqe appropriately. your choice of filler below the plug

NO pipe threads in a cast aluminum head with thin sections. Pipe threads cause a lot of radial force, which may crack the head as it is tightened.

NEW INFORMATION
 

Leak Down Test Results:

I am attaching pic again with colored arrows for reference:

http://i194.photobucket.com/albums/z...%20plug/GP.jpg

I blew air into the small (red) hole. This is the ONLY place that has a coolant breach. While blowing air in there I was able to hear air rushing into the expansion tank and splashing coolant with the cap off. Furthermore, when I stopped blowing air and removed air gun the coolant back flowed out from that small hole and ONLY that small hole, not the hole depicted by the Green arrow.

Next I plugged the small (red) hole with a hardened bolt. (just snugged it up). Then I blew air into the opening again so the air would only go into the green arrow. There was NO air rushing into the expansion tank this time. Instead what happened was that it blew off my paper towels that was plugging the first 2 ports where the intake manifold attaches. (see photo below). So this breach is into the airflow section of the head? As we all know, these ports get very gummed up with carbon. So as a further test, I took a 12 gauge copper wire and probed around in the green hole. When I removed the wire it indeed had carbon buildup on it.

At no time did I hear any airflow rushing into the oil cap (which I had tested while blowing air in both red and green holes)

http://i194.photobucket.com/albums/z...55478DBA72.jpg

The two ports without paper towel is where air was rushing out of when I blew air in the Green Hole. No other IM ports to the right had air flowing from them.

I am confident now there is no breach of the pre chamber. Do you agree? I am confident that with a self tapping hardened bolt I can close that up for good. (The red hole).

The question now becomes: How hot does that air get flowing through the IM and the head? If I pack the High Heat JB Weld (or lead) and close the whole thing up with a threaded plug can it withstand the heat? The JB weld product holds up to 400 degree F. And even if it can't, if I successfully seal up the red hole, where will it go anyway?

Thoughts? Questions? Did I miss anything in these tests?

Looking at that last (zoomed out photo) it is obvious that the large breach goes into the intake runner. I doubt the air on the intake side gets hot enough to damage JB weld.

ran the numbers -- at 14.7psig of boost and a 150F intake air temperature, the temperature at the outlet of the compressor would be 284F -- but you should never be at 14.7 psig of boost, so it will probably be less.

Thanks RM - You've all been a big help.

Have you accounted for where all the lost coolant went? Have you turned the engine over by hand a few revolutions?

It's not as low as I originally thought. It is just below the breach apparently because as stated above when I took the air trigger away, the coolant was high enough that the back pressure caused it to back flow out. And even though I can not see a level in the expansion tank, there was enough to cause splashing while blowing air through the red hole.

What about turning the engine over by hand? Did any coolant come out of the 13/64 hole? With the gaping hole being in the intake and not coolant and the new info you have provided, I have new ideas as to plugging it up. I'll draw and post a diagram later, which will be better than words.

Since you breached an intake passage, that coolant is probably in the piston.

I didn't turn the engine by hand. Not even sure how to do that.
The gaping hole is higher than the small hole where coolant was coming out of. So the only coolant that would have made it into the intake passage would have been a small amount on the initial breach when I drilled the small hole too deep.

Funola. Interested in seeing this drawing. Thanks for doing that. Take your time.

1/2" drive socket on the crankshaft pulley nut (not sure size on 606) and a ratchet. If you can't turn the engine a few revolutions, coolant has gotten into the other cylinders via the intake runner and is hydro locked. You'll have to remove the other glow plugs or injectors to blow it out.

If I remember correctly, this is impossible on an E300. On a 123/126 with a 616/617, it works great (27mm socket), and is the best way.