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gauging interest
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If I can get a fair price, I'll part with my 84 300D that was recently involved in a side impact. Of course the other party's insurance has deemed it a total loss, but salvage value is only $225, so I'm keeping it.
Would anyone like to buy a drivable parts car or buy it so they can fix it up themselves? I'd rather it go to a MB diesel lover than the junk yard... PM me. |
no interest?
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What do you mean by "fair price"? If you already got a total value check, anything over the deducted salvage value is icing, I would think. On the other hand, are you trying to get basically a second total value check's worth out of it?
Is that Smoke Silver? -Rog |
I think I could have easily sold it for $4500 pre-accident. Salvage value is $225, according to insurance co. I think the car in its current state is worth more than $225. I think most here would agree with that, considering it's in fine shape mechanically.
It needs to have the B-pillar repaired and 2 new doors. Other details: 197k miles EGR deleted Sanden compressor running R12 (Rollguy's bracket) Tires have about 8k on them No cracks in dash No tears in seats New horsehair back pads on front seats New radiator |
Have you posted your asking price ?
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$1,500
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Good luck.
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Well, clearly its worth $225. Anything above that is gravy.
A good used motor is worth from $500 to 750 or so but you'll have to pull it out of the car for that. If you have the time to part it out you can come out ahead but I think with the damage shown above it looks like the center post is pushed in significantly so getting new doors in there will require pushing that back out. I think folks can buy undamaged cars nearly as nice for near your asking price. But, it doesn't hurt to ask.;) |
Unfortunately the value of a parts car isn't necessarily proportional to what it was worth intact, prior to whatever made it a parts car. Rule of thumb around here is $500-750 if it runs and drives... $250 if it doesn't. Very much the same for older cars with a bad tranny (as many people find out to their chagrin).
That doesn't mean there isn't someone who will let the moths out of their wallet and pay a bit more. For example, my '85 had similar type damage when I got it back in 2011, but on the RHS front fender and front door, with bent tie rod and center link. I paid $1250 on eBay. It was an 80k-mile, one-owner car, always dealer serviced and always garaged. The vendor provided me with the insurance adjuster's estimate on the car. While your car seems to be in very nice shape, 197k miles offsets the condition. I doubt anyone here will jump on it at $1,500. Try it at $1100 or so, and you might find someone in the northeast who has the means and time to drag the car home, for whom a clean, dry-state car would be worth fixing in this situation. Like the guy did with me on eBay. The car did not gather much interest but one other eBayer did bid against me at the last minute, drove me up by $350. |
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Another way to approach the question: what would a reasonably priced body shop charge to repair the damage?
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Even if you manage to fix it, it will have a salvage brand.
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If there wasn`t 17 or 1800 miles between us, I would come for it.
Looks like a nice well taken care of car. To me $1000 seems reasonable. 197K miles is nothing, they go a million miles. read it on CL and E-Bay, so gotta be the truth. :rolleyes: There were two 240D`s in the SF Bay area last year, one side swiped and the other T Boned real bad. One was listed for $800, think it was the T Bone. Don`t remember the other one, think it was a bit more. Both 4-spd manuals. Thought too long and they were gone. :( There is less and less of these W123`s around, checked PNP last night, and maybe one or two listed. About 100 miles from me. I have a 80 240 I picked up for $750, rod through the upper pan, and a auto trans. Body is in great shape, so that is a plus. No damage or rust. Each one of us puts a different value on these cars, to some, just another old car. Charlie |
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