Do I need spring compressor to change lower ball joints?
 

Bushings yes, ball joints no.

Read the many posts on changing the lower ball joints. No spring compressor, but you will need to remove the spindle. Getting the old ball joint out is easy (framing hammer). Pressing the new one in is more challenging. You need the special C-press (free rental). A shop press only works w/ a special adapter tube that fits around the spindle.

The official MB tool works like butter. My Indy loaned me his. I`ve been looking for a used one, but they cost more than a rusted out W123. :eek:

https://encrypted-tbn2.gstatic.com/i...6J17btd-ZBrS9A
400 × 250 - sirtools.com



Here is one for $100 but you will need to spend $200 for a hyd Press.
Or if you know someone with a press would be cool and cheaper.

https://encrypted-tbn2.gstatic.com/i...KOGN_X676RuRXg 760 × 692 - benzworld.org




Or you can use ROLLGUY`s method of making an adaptor and the HF big "C" Press.

http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/diesel-discussion/333726-ball-joint-replacement-using-hf-kit-home-made-adapter.html


You will have to beat the Lower Ball joint out with a BFH and a Socket on the end of the BJ.

I used FUNOLA`s Red Neck method, worked great and I didn`t have to hold the Steering Knuckle with one hand and beat with the other.

http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/diesel-discussion/321615-red-neck-lower-ball-joint-removal.html

Or stick it is a vice.


https://encrypted-tbn3.gstatic.com/i...6wFAvIgaAhfrIp 1280 × 960 - benzworld.org




Charlie

[QUOTE=charmalu;3601333The official MB tool works like butter. My Indy loaned me his. I`ve been looking for a used one, but they cost more than a rusted out W123. :eek:]

The magic mb ball joint tool⚡️ one site that sold the ball joints said if you don't have the magic tool then don't get the Lemforder ball joint... 🤔 So guess I would settle for less thinking an indy may have trouble pressing in Lemforder?

Here is my version of this tool. I made with a $5 pipe from the remnant pile from my local steel yard. It measures 60.8mm outer diameter and 49.8mm inner diameter. With a $3 dollar Harbor Freight cut off blade, I took off the side to make it fit the knuckle. Works great. With my 20 ton press, it drives the new ball joint down in less than 1 minute. I've done 6 ball joints in the past few years with this $8 dollar tool.

http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/...1&d=1464284989

http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/...1&d=1464285004



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I made due with a loaner balljoint press from from a parts store. The big requirement was that you need a very short die that fits the outside diameter of the balljoint with the boot removed, and I had to use my impact set on high for quite a while to get it to slide in. The die needs to be roughly 1/2" long, then the set will have some stepped spacers that have a hole in them for the threads of the balljoint to fit through. It wasn't a particularly fun job. You could probably find a metal shop with the right diameter tubing who is willing to cut you the short spacer. (The one in my kit had a bit of a bevel cut to the spacer, which meant I had to rotate the spacer a few times to get it pressed in evenly)

The cutout tubing piece that DeliveryValve and charmalu show seems like a nice solution too.

Nice! Monkeys figured out to use stones to crack nuts. This is a few steps beyond that lol. With that tool, I think you should be able to drive it in with a 3 lb hammer, press not really needed.

With this tool I have, the advantage is it fits the Lemförder balljoint without taking the boot off. It also fits a Meyle joint also.


Maybe, but the press drives it in steady and nicely.


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So, in Red Neck talk,
60.8mm = 2.39370079 inch.
49.8mm = 1.96062992 inch.

Good looking tool. Looks like black iron pipe.
What`s the length from the top of the knuckle to the top of the pipe?. Maybe 6"?
What kind of a press did you buy? remember you were looking for one a while back.

Charlie

Hey Charlie, yeah you were sending me those craigslist list ads, egging me on, and then one came up not too long after. 20 ton Central Pneumatic for for $75. Couldn't pass it up. Then I started using it for all sorts of stuff. Had to make a few jigs for it.
Charlie, You definitely need on of these things in your shop.

Yes that is black iron pipe. If you measure from the top of the cutout to the end of the pipe, it is 4 1/2 inches. I made it long enough so the ram of the press would fit inside it and not hit the knuckle.


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Excellent tool
 

Impressive tool.

I took my knuckles off and brought them to an automotive machine shop. They used one guy as a vice and a very large 2lb? Ball peen hammer to knock the joints out. They were rusty.

Then they used this OTC press kit (c frames and cups) in a big case to press in the joints. Used an air impact driver.

I was hoping they were going to use the hydraulic press but they just couldn't get it in. I paid them a C note when it was done and put the knuckles back on my car.

Charlie do you know if that tool made by sir tools.com works also for the ball joints in a W124?

I guess it would, but it's unnecessary. 124 ball joints press into the control arm.

Vstech how do I check the ball joints how do I know if I need to replace them ? I'm staring to get a little shake on the steering wheel

It's difficult on the 123/126, but if you EVENLY support the vehicle weight under the lower control arms, you can grab the wheel, and push/pull at the top and bottom of the tire. Movement is a bad thing.

A visual indicator would be, destroyed boots, and rust in the joint.

It's easier to check with a pipe instead of using your hands to push or pull.

Here is a video I shot of how to check for a bad ball joint. Basic same principle to check on most cars.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=93ib1nxE0Ao



Thread on my other videos to check the suspension components.

http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/diesel-discussion/365091-videos-w123-need-suspension-rebuild.html


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Tanks deliveryValve

One video worth 10,000 words.

Does anyone have an idea how much a shop would charge for a ball joint job on a W124?

I dunno, but over the years of operating a Mercedes benz, I've learned quite a bit about dealing with indies and the stealership. Its becoming increasingly difficult to find and locate a competent shop that:

1. Knows and understands our cars.
2. Has the necessary tools and equipment to properly repair our cars.
3. Provides customer service with a smile (they exhibit a GREAT attitude).

I've used quite a few indies and 9 out of 10 struck out big time! Sometimes it was the repair, sometimes it was the qualify of the parts, sometimes it was both and sometimes they simply exhibited a bad attitude.

This is the main reason I'm on this forum and constantly purchase DIY guides, etc because I've been screwed over one too many times. Screwed over, BTW, by Indies who are highly rated on this forum. I refuse to name names, other than to say "Caveat Emptor" buyer BEWARE!!!

I agree with you on your 3 points. I was watching this video on YouTube and the way this guy does this job replacing the ball joints in a W124 looks so easy but he is doing it with 4 special tools I don't have any and I did this same job about a year ago on my 300TD and still cost me I paid $40.00 at the machine shop to repace the ball joints and $60.00 for the aliment. So I was thinking if a shop cand do it for $200.00 I'll pay it. But like you said it's hard to find a shop to work on our cars

What and indy would charge is seldom a pleasant surprise so, with the help of sites like this and great talent avail here on these diesel beasts, I've flushed and recharged ac, cleaned evap, balanced vacuum/tranny system, fixed door locks, flushed tranny, belts, fuel strainer/rubber lines replaced. Next up:oil cooler lines, then upper control arm, maybe new ball joints but will test further with advice given here, they may just need a new boot. Key is to research every step here in detail and diy what you absolutely know you can do with no surprises..😉 I hate surprises.

Where would I find the price for the tools this guy is using on this video?

I couldn't find the KL-0043-822 (the first hydraulic press), but I did find the KL-0326-10 A (the second hydraulic press) at this site for $1,377.27. :eek:
Klann Tools KL-0326-10 A Press Tool Kit MB Ball Joint (with hydr. Cylinder)



Here is a link to the Klann steering tool catalog.
http://www.themotoringshop.com/catalog/klann/Chapter_2.pdf




This tool might be a cheaper alternative at $457.63.:eek:
Hydraulic C Frame for the Mobile Hydraulic Press | Schley Products, Inc | 11090

https://youtu.be/VJrMiUKpGSg

.

Tanks again DeliveyValve. It doesn't make sense for me to spend thousands of dollar on special tools that I'm going to use maybe once a year. I wish I can find a shop that has those tools and doesn't charge an arm and a leg for their services

Thus the reason for the tool rental forum...
Tool Rental Program - PeachParts Mercedes ShopForum

I took the steering knuckle (cleaned up) and ball joints to the local indy. He gave them back to me cleaner still with the ball joints installed and painted on the underside. He said that the ball joint press was Mercedes and cost several hundred dollars when these cars were new.

The aftermarket spring compressors work and you should heed the advice to lube the screw. Simple threaded rod with washer & a large socket will press the lower control arm bushings in. Use fine thread of the largest size that will fit the socket. The socket pushes on the rim of the bushing as required. Pushing on the rim only will distort the rim but using wood or washers in the socket to shim enough to support the center of the bushing makes the process relatively easy.

I had to use 1 each new bolt that holds the upper control arm and camber adjusting bolt when doing my SD.

There are 2 bushings in the carrier that hold the guide rod mount. All of my bushings were dry rotted. Just knock them out with a hammer, clean the carrier with a wire wheel, lube the hole and use threaded rod with thick washers to press the bushings in.

Hey delivery valve,

While looking at the dimensions you gave for the pipe " 60.8mm outer diameter and 49.8mm inner diameter.", I can't seem to match it to the sizes available per this chart Pipe Dimension Table
for any of the schedules listed: 5, 10, 40.

Is it a metric black iron pipe?

I don't have a 20 ton press. It took up too much room and was always in the way except for a few times when needed. That was 20 yrs ago. I miss it only infrequently. Welding would be a more useful skill.

I am using a schedule 80 black pipe and that chart you posted is not showing it.
My measurements maybe off somewhat, since I did not clean up the burrs, but it is a nominal 2 inch pipe in this chart.
Schedule 80 Steel Pipe Sizes & Dimensions ANSI - Engineers Edge


.

I didn't know there is even a sched 80. Shows you how much I know about plumbing stuff. It is not very common. Home Depot does not carry it. McMaster has 2" Sched 80 for $41 / ft.!

Where's the best place to find a cutoff piece cheap? What trade /industry use 2" sched 80 pipes? Steam generators? Nuclear reactor plants?

Common pipe for gas welders

My county is a large heavy crude oil producing area. So pipe of that type is needed.
There are a few pipe/steel businesses in town and I can usually get remnant stock at a good price. But it goes up and down depending on the market.

As far as purchasing it online. I have no clue.

.

Gas welders as in?

1. A device that uses gas to weld things together like oxy-acetylene?

or

2. A person that is trained to weld with gas?

Don't forget, I am looking for a schedule 80 2 inch nominal o.d. pipe that is cheap.

Has anyone seen the proper tool for sale used? I live on a bumpy road and see a few more ball joints jobs in my future.

There are a bunch of ball joint tools on amazon for Mercedes but none listed for W123.
Anyone have a part number or a source?

Many thanks.

FSM Job 33-440:
https://www.startekinfo.com/StarTek/outside/12265/disc_2/program/Chassis/33-440.pdf

Lower ball joint removal tool: appropriately sized mandrel (as per the FSM)

Lower ball joint installer: MB part number 116 589 04 62 00, Price = $$$$ from the MB dealer


FourM 4M-012 is a weaker copy of the MB tool, Price=$$$
Fourm 4M-012 Lower ball joint installer


Alternatively, the JTC-1849, price = ???...no active links that I could find.
JTC -1894 is shown in post 4 on this thread: http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/diesel-discussion/179284-write-up-ball-joints-lower-control-arm-bushings-tool-review-pics.html


And finally, a clone of the JTC-1849, the KTC MBZ2012 price = $

The JTC Company has a website: BENZ & BMW TOOL , JTC Auto Tools

This site has the price ($95) of the KTC. https://shop.ktcautotools.com/collections/mercedes-benz-tools?page=10

Renntag,
Many posts here, just search. Most use the "C-clamp" tool to press the new ball joint in. You can rent free from Autozone or buy new at Harbor Freight (I paid ~$35 on sale). A big hammer gets the ball joint out.

C-Press.