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#1
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testing a brake booster on a w123
i'm testing a brake booster for suspected failure. with long and furious pumping on my mityvac i can get it to pull 2" of vac at which point if i stop pumping it bleeds off. i'm assuming this thing is supposed to hold steady vacuum but is 2" anywhere near the capacity? pedal is hard and requires pressure to stop the car but it feels like some assist is still there
ETA hose going into the booster pulls 24" of steady vacuum from the engine pump one final edit: when the car is running , pressing the brake pedal you can hear a squeaky sound thats like air being let out of a balloon
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1981 NA 300D 310k miles Last edited by sleepstar; 06-20-2016 at 02:43 PM. |
#2
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Well you either have a leak in the vacuum booster or you might just have a leak in the seal between the master cylinder and the booster. It is very easy to replace that seal, inexpensive also. Mater of fact, I bought a couple extra and if you want one, i will cost you $10.00 shipped. It is not an "0" ring. The cross section of the "0" ring is round, the cross section of this seal is rectangular. I did put a new "0" ring in mine and it helped a little, but it is not the answer.
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Junqueyardjim Christianity, if false, is of no importance, and if true, of infinite importance. The only thing it cannot be is moderately important. C.S. Lewis 1983 Mercedes W123 240D 4 Speed 285,000 on the road with a 617 turbo, beautiful butter yellow, license plate # 83 240D INDIANA 2003 Jaguar Type X, AWD. beautiful, good mileage, Mom's car, but I won't let her drive it! |
#3
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any way to tell the difference between the two? the MC was replaced maybe one or two years ago by a reputable shop so i'm assuming they replaced that seal as well...
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1981 NA 300D 310k miles |
#4
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Some of those seals (square O-ring) w/ rebuilt MC's seem a bit thin to seal reliably. I have doubled-up on them or used a round O-ring from my kit.
But, w/ 24" Hg vacuum at the booster, sounds like your diaphragm inside is OK. Sometimes they get a crack that seals at different times. More commonly, a crack seals as the pedal is pushed, then you get sudden assist that throws you into the windshield. It is normal to get atmospheric air flowing in by the pedal, since that is how the booster works. It flows thru the "air valve" as you move the pedal until the booster piston follows to close the valve. Normally, you should hear only a momentary hiss, if even that, so your air valve might be funky. In some boosters, you can buy just that part. A post here shows a booster disassembled. I wouldn't judge by the Might-Mite test. I think most boosters slightly normally, and perhaps faster than you can hand pump, but again your air valve may not be sealing well or working perfectly.
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1984 & 1985 CA 300D's 1964 & 65 Mopar's - Valiant, Dart, Newport 1996 & 2002 Chrysler minivans |
#5
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i should clairfy, i get 24" from the vacuum pump on the engine down the booster hose, so its not a failing vacuum pump or a leaky booster hose. i was checking how well the booster held vacuum directly at the booster
and yeah its more than a slight hiss, it sounds really high pitched and squeaky, very obvious sound...
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1981 NA 300D 310k miles |
#6
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welp, tested a known good booster and i got it to hold 15" before i gave up pumping, so this one on my friends car is definitely gone south. any insight as to replacement? looks like four bolts on the inside and two at the booster where it attaches to the MC...?
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1981 NA 300D 310k miles Last edited by sleepstar; 06-21-2016 at 05:31 PM. |
#7
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Yes, not hard to remove. Leave the MC bolted to the brake tubes and it will hang there fine and bend forward out of the way, and you won't have to open the hydraulics. Never priced a new one. If >$100, I would go junkyard though 30 yr old rubber isn't dependable. I only removed the booster on my 2 300D's to get the brake fluid out that leaked past a bad MC and to paint.
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1984 & 1985 CA 300D's 1964 & 65 Mopar's - Valiant, Dart, Newport 1996 & 2002 Chrysler minivans |
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