my front end decision has been made, now i need more help - PeachParts Mercedes-Benz Forum

RG5384 · #1 05-12-2002, 02:25 PM

I know i've been asking a ton on this topic, but i'm still a little iffy on it. I plan on doing it myself, as that is the only way i can afford to do it. I will be replacing tie rod assemblies, left and right, drag link(center tie rod) ball joints, control arm bushings, idle arm bushings, and maybe the steering dampner. I know i need to rent the spring compress tool to do that, will one from say napa work ok? After i have the control arms out I can take them to a mechanic and have the ball joints pressed in for me for relativly cheap correct? If i do it that way, the only tool i should have to rent is the spring compress tool right? I figure on this taking a couple weeks of my time, i figure i'll probably get so frusterated at it i'll have to stop for a couple days and go back to it. I'll be ordering the parts in the next week( i hope), and want to rent the tool whenever i KNOW i'll be doing the work. Does anyone know how much it costs to rent a spring compressor? how hard is it to get the control arms off, do i have to diss-assemble the entire brake system?(rotors, calipers, bearings, etc). My impression is that the control arm is what everything attaches to, is this correct? i have a cd-rom manual i will be using. Oh yea, what is the ball-joint looking thing that you can see just on top of the wheel(but behind it obviously), it is leaking grease so i figure i might as well replace that one too. Thanks
Ryan

#2 05-12-2002, 08:36 PM

When you get all your parts in for this project let me know. I have done some of it on my car, some I paid others to do, some was done by the PO. My indy has let me borrow the spring tool for free, if you have someone you have paid to work on your car see if they have one they will let you either rent cheap or free.

h2odiesel · #3 05-12-2002, 08:52 PM

Ryan,
Unless you're replacing the lower control arm bushings you don't need the spring compressor. The lower ball joint is in the steering knuckle/spindle. It can be removed safely and easily without removing the springs. The upper arm and ball joint are even easier. I've got that down to about thirty minutes a side. You do need a special tool to do the lower ball joint, or take it to a shop that has one. If you want to make a contribution to my tool aquisistion fund I'll get one, and you can bring the brown bomber down and we'll knock it out in an afternoon. I can see more lower ball joints in my future, with three SDs and counting. If you sign up for a free yahoo acct. look at this link for a couple ball joint pics.
http://photos.yahoo.com/bc/h2odiesel/lst?.dir=/My+Photos&.view=t

Bob DuPuy
Parrish, Fl
83 300SD
84 300SD
83 300SD
80 Unimog 416 DOKA (still on the way)

RG5384 · #4 05-12-2002, 09:09 PM

rebootit: who is your diesel indy??? i've been hard pressed to find anyone who really knows these cars and will work on them reasonably, the only person i know of is my indy mechanic that worked on my old century. He's a great guy, but not my first choice with my mercedes
Ryan

Capt Kirk · #5 05-12-2002, 10:10 PM

I would say rent a proper spring compressor to do the work. You don't need it to just do the ball joints, but I recommend while your in there you replace the control Arm bushings (you need the spring compressor for this).

Front End rebuilding is a pretty simple task, especially if you have a mechanic press the ball joints for you. It's just a matter of taking the whole thing apart and putting it all back together.

BigMikeT57 · #6 05-13-2002, 09:47 AM

Can any machine shop press the ball joints, or do they still need
the MB tool?

Thanks,

#7 05-13-2002, 10:37 AM

Ryan,
I use Action Imports on 4th street and 30th ave, St. Pete. You HAVE to talk to the owner Renee and stay away from the service writer in front. He will kill you on parts if you let him. I always get a price from Renee first and it's a good 1/3 less than what gets quoted to me by Chris up front.
My car was serviced it's whole life before me and after the dealer warranty by Wane Purdy on Greenwood Ave. Clearwater. May be closer to you and by the looks of the records I have they did everything to this car in it's 18 years before I got it and if it was close to me I would continue to take it to them when I needed a pro.
Every front end part except ball joints has been replaced in my car over the two years I have had it. It steers and handles great now, was very sloppy when I bought it. However I wish I had done ball joints when I replaced all the other stuff. They had no play and had been replaced about 40k ago but on this last trip something is making a popping sound every once in a while when I hit the brakes. I can feel the pop in the floorboard near the firewall on the left side. I can't see anything loose when I jack up the car and shake the hell out of it, also can't make it pop. I am assuming it's ball joints but it could be a rubber part as well.

MikeTangas · #8 05-13-2002, 10:47 AM

That popping you feel through the floorboard is most likely the track rod mounts. The track rod attaches near the idler arms.

#9 05-13-2002, 02:44 PM

Mike,

Doing a search I see you have replaced track rod mounts in one of your cars. Is this something you can see the wear on before you pull apart? The pop I am getting is a come and go thing. Have not heard it for a couple of days, but it was bothering me on the way home from GA. Would feel it first thing when starting out and hitting the brakes, not so bad once on the road awhile. Also do not feel it when hitting bumps in the road, rough road etc. Just when slowing down and every now and then in a slow speed turn.

MikeTangas · #10 05-13-2002, 07:01 PM

I haven't replaced the track rod mounts yet, that will be coming soon when I do the front end work. You can look at the mount from under the car and see if it has worn/deteriorated. Might notice the pop when braking or reversing direction. I only get it once and a while like a steep incline driveway or when starting off after a sudden stop.

jcd · #11 05-14-2002, 07:13 AM

Is when someone describes a symptom, pop sometimes at slow turns, that result in maintenance work that you didn't anticipate.

I believe that I have the same issue with the track rod mounts. I'll crawl under this weekend and take a look.

I had already ordered tie rod assemblys, L R & Center. I may have to address the track rod mounts as well.

Mike, I believe that Temecula, CA is the home town of one of the greatest USAC Silver Crown drivers, Chuck Gurney, or possibly another one Jimmy Sills. Living in NJ I miss the enjoyment of sprint cars on both the bullrings and "the miles". I hate this state.

JCD

#12 05-14-2002, 01:25 PM

Ryan,

You can rent an "internal" mercedes specific spring compressor from Performance Products in California. Not cheap......about 90 for three weeks and then there is the shipping.....find them on the web.

I was able to use a free compressor on my front end (external type from PepBoys) but it was not my favorite experience and I don't think most novices should try that. Just too dangerous. Really, you could get killed in that wheel well. To complicate matters there are different designs for the external type compressors, and apparently some are more dangerous than others!

I suggest you get everything ready and bite the bullet by acquiring the right tool. Its unpleasant but will make the work so much easier and so much safer. Besides, you are still saving big money if you do it yourself.

Nic
'85 300CD

leathermang · #13 05-14-2002, 01:32 PM

One would think that with the size of this forum... and a little coordination... that several people could share one rental time of that spring compressor... Greg

RG5384 · #14 05-14-2002, 05:05 PM

Well i ordered the parts tonight. I went down to H20diesel's work this afternoon (thanks again

) and he figured out 90% of my play was coming from my drag link, and steering damper, and we figured out together that the tie rod assembly is what was causing that obnoxious squeak. The parts i ordered were the steering damper, the drag link,both tie rod assemblies, and the rack dampner bolt(finally, MAYBE my engine will idle smoothly....) I'll let you know how all this turns out, my thinking was that i should start off with the easy stuff that didnt require all that much work/diss-assembly, and if i'm still getting alot of play/clunks to go ahead and do some more. Thanks again for all your help!
Ryan

#15 05-16-2002, 12:11 AM

Juat replaced my tie rods and drag link. You will need a tie rod separator tool. ($10) at auto zone. Make sure your new tie rods are adjusted to the same length respectively to the old ones so your alignment will be relatively the same. Took me about two hours to do it all. I had one tough tie rod on the left steering arm, the rest came off easy. Check your idler arm bushings also, they are hard to get to. My drag link was dry on one side and had a lot of play. The other stuff was questionable. I think the accumulative affect caused my front end problems. Handles great now.