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  #31  
Old 08-18-2016, 10:10 PM
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8: When coming down the same steep hills (forward!) the van has a 1st gear selector position - microswitch - which engages and I have electrically tested the microswitch which is good BUT we cant hold first and the tranny changes up to 2nd at normal speed which when you want engine braking to hold your speed down is quite scary.

You tested the micro switch but did you test the signal what the transmission sees? If possible run a wire directly off the connector at the transmission and monitor that going down hill and see what's what.

Information on your engine is sparce.

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  #32  
Old 08-18-2016, 10:34 PM
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Quote:
Algae I think is of more concern. 12 degrees timing would correct chain stretch but now I'm not all that convinced that is the only problem. Did you place the return line into a jar and look for air bubbles they can be elusive and since your fuel system was rebuilt perhaps you are putting to much faith in that being properly repaired?
Hi dieselbenz1 Thanks for the confirmation on the timing of the fuel pump. I am off to the local parts store tomorrow ostensibly to get something to do a diesel purge with (cant get actual diesel puge here but I thought some injection cleaner/cetane booster 250ml (bardahl) with 100ml acetone and 500ml diesel would be a good mix?) 7m of clear fuel line and 1meter of rubber fuel line. Then I am going to take the fuel line and return and fuel tank out of the mix and create a mini system just before the inline filter and return back to the bottle. Kill 2 birds etc clean injectors and IP and see if not using repaired fuel delivery circuit makes any difference to the whole smoking thing - based on that out come i can replace - or not - the fuel lines and work out if the air admittance valve is working correctly. Will update results.
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  #33  
Old 08-18-2016, 10:47 PM
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Quote:
8: When coming down the same steep hills (forward!) the van has a 1st gear selector position - microswitch - which engages and I have electrically tested the microswitch which is good BUT we cant hold first and the tranny changes up to 2nd at normal speed which when you want engine braking to hold your speed down is quite scary.

You tested the micro switch but did you test the signal what the transmission sees? If possible run a wire directly off the connector at the transmission and monitor that going down hill and see what's what.

Information on your engine is sparce.
Hi dieselbenz1 I started her up yesterday to test the voltage at the plug-in connector for the kickdown solenoid (that should cause a forced downshift to first according to the manual that whilst held on - should keep the tranny in first) but as you say information is sparse (this selector position should be the same as the B selector on some merc diesel cars ) anyway the outcome of that was that when selected the voltage present was 2V - not the 12V I would have expected.
What I cant find out is absolute confirmation that whilst in 1st selection that the sytem energises the coil of the kick down solenoid with a constant 12v until a higher gear is selected - I mean it seems to me that the solenoid would need a consistant 12v to stay energised and the only other time that the kickdown would be used is when the kickdown switch is activated under the accelerator would there be a momentary 12v - causing the kickdown whilst overtaking etc.
IF I can be absolutely certain of this then I am quite happy to wire 12v directly to the microswitch on 1st gear selector so that the relay at the control point is bypassed - its not like a 4.6tonne motorhome really needs to have a kickdown switch anyway!!!
But again information on this tranny AND engine is scarse.
Your thoughts?
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  #34  
Old 08-18-2016, 11:20 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by markenhancer View Post
Hi - mxfrank - thanks for those links. All 3 very informative (if slightly daunting at first viewing) My only concern is that my engine is a 602.940 and these documents are for 602.980 + 602.982 + 602.984 + 602.985 - will these specifics be the same for my engine? I am never sure whether the van version of the 602 is much different from the cars or not.
Whoops! The attached is for the 940/941

It's easy to check the tappets, which was the procedure described in the third document. Just turn the cam until each tappet is free and press down. If it sinks easily, it's bad.
Attached Files
File Type: pdf 941, 602.pdf (154.8 KB, 120 views)
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  #35  
Old 08-18-2016, 11:43 PM
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Quote:
Whoops! The attached is for the 940/941

It's easy to check the tappets, which was the procedure described in the third document. Just turn the cam until each tappet is free and press down. If it sinks easily, it's bad.
Hi mxfrank thanks for the update - may i ask where you found the info on the 602.940 engine is it freely available info? would love to have the actual WSM for this engine - all i have is many downloaded parts of WSMs for 602.xxx engines - most info is spot on but every now and again I have to wonder if the info is correct for mine. And thanks for the absolutely spot on info on testing the lifters. Regards Mark
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  #36  
Old 08-18-2016, 11:46 PM
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Quote:
12 degrees timing would correct chain stretch
Hi dieselbenz1 - quick and final question for tonight. Can you confirm that the IP timing 12° info is ATDC - just want to make absolutely sure I have this information correct.
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  #37  
Old 08-19-2016, 08:17 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by markenhancer View Post
Hi dieselbenz1 I started her up yesterday to test the voltage at the plug-in connector for the kickdown solenoid (that should cause a forced downshift to first according to the manual that whilst held on - should keep the tranny in first) but as you say information is sparse (this selector position should be the same as the B selector on some merc diesel cars ) anyway the outcome of that was that when selected the voltage present was 2V - not the 12V I would have expected.
What I cant find out is absolute confirmation that whilst in 1st selection that the sytem energises the coil of the kick down solenoid with a constant 12v until a higher gear is selected - I mean it seems to me that the solenoid would need a consistant 12v to stay energised and the only other time that the kickdown would be used is when the kickdown switch is activated under the accelerator would there be a momentary 12v - causing the kickdown whilst overtaking etc.
IF I can be absolutely certain of this then I am quite happy to wire 12v directly to the microswitch on 1st gear selector so that the relay at the control point is bypassed - its not like a 4.6tonne motorhome really needs to have a kickdown switch anyway!!!
But again information on this tranny AND engine is scarse.
Your thoughts?
My thoughts were to use a voltmeter or lamp to see what the voltage is when driving and first gear is selected. I'm hoping the lamp will be on full once selected if it up shifts and the lamp goes out it would point to a wiring problem.
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  #38  
Old 08-19-2016, 08:22 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by markenhancer View Post
Hi dieselbenz1 - quick and final question for tonight. Can you confirm that the IP timing 12° info is ATDC - just want to make absolutely sure I have this information correct.
I was looking for this information last evening but then realized how little info is readily available. I can not confirm timing should be 12 degrees This was based on your initial post of 14 degrees with the chain stretch.
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  #39  
Old 08-19-2016, 07:25 PM
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Quote:
I was looking for this information last evening but then realized how little info is readily available. I can not confirm timing should be 12 degrees This was based on your initial post of 14 degrees with the chain stretch.
HI Dieselbenz1 thanks for the clarification - I am still not sure of the ATDC timing of the fuel pump - I keep reading differing posts where ATDC is mentioned and yet its always for 602.xxx not 602.940. MxFrank sent me a camshaft timing for the 602.940 which gives - used chain (20,000kms - ours is 280,000kms but close enough) with inlet valve opening and closing at 12° and 18° which I guess puts 14° as right in the middle of that range and if the chain stretch is 3° then it MAY be that the inlet valve isnt actually opening until 15° and closing at 21° (if I have my head around what this all means correctly) so its entirely possible then (if the IP is still timed to 14°) that the inlet valve is not even open when the IP is firing - initially - so actually I should retard the timing by 2° to 16° (or even by 3° to 17°?) to place the IP start right in the middle of the inlet valve opening sequence?
Your thoughts muchly appreciated.
Regards Mark

Last edited by markenhancer; 08-19-2016 at 07:26 PM. Reason: changed values
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  #40  
Old 08-19-2016, 07:50 PM
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My thoughts also. I believe 1 full rotation of a loaded adjustment screw will alter timing 1,5 degrees if my memory is working.
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  #41  
Old 08-19-2016, 08:18 PM
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Quote:
My thoughts also. I believe 1 full rotation of a loaded adjustment screw will alter timing 1,5 degrees if my memory is working.
Hi DieselBenz1 thanks for getting back to me ... okay so there is a timing adjustment screw? as opposed to undoing the mounting bolts and rotating the IP toward or away from the engine block? As I said I am ready for whatever I must learn to do but still bowed under the weight of the 100s of pages of posts that I have read.
I am hoping that an adjustment of the IP (which I understand could be done relatively easily and the best bit is that if it doesnt work I can put the IP timing back to where it was and have lost nothing apart from a couple of hours work) will help after chatting with you and all that I have read.
I know it's unlikely to be the whole problem but even a little success would be a massive boost to my confidence to get this sorted ...
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  #42  
Old 08-19-2016, 10:49 PM
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You should have 3 mounting bolts 2 on front 1 back loosen those first. Adjustment bolt can then be turned located looking down onto IP closer to the front.
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  #43  
Old 08-19-2016, 10:55 PM
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PM sent. The kickdown solenoid needs power at all times for you to be in a low gear.
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  #44  
Old 08-19-2016, 11:23 PM
Fast becoming a 410d mech
 
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Quote:
You should have 3 mounting bolts 2 on front 1 back loosen those first. Adjustment bolt can then be turned located looking down onto IP closer to the front.
Dieselbenz1 - awesome thank you. So I can paint a mark at initial position of bolt, then loosen 3 bolts and adjusting bolt turn 1 1/2 turns (roughly 2.25°) advanced - which I am guessing is Clockwise - then re-tighten the mounting bolts and fire her up to test the difference. I dont need to check the postion of the IP timing before or otherwise open the IP. and if it all goes pearshaped I just can reverse the above procedure until the paint marks line up again and be back to where I started?
Thanks and please do scream if what I have written rings alarm bells because I have missed out something catastrophic or vital. Kindest
Mark
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  #45  
Old 08-19-2016, 11:25 PM
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Hi dieselbenz1 Thanks for the confirmation on the timing of the fuel pump. I am off to the local parts store tomorrow ostensibly to get something to do a diesel purge with (cant get actual diesel puge here but I thought some injection cleaner/cetane booster 250ml (bardahl) with 100ml acetone and 500ml diesel would be a good mix?) 7m of clear fuel line and 1meter of rubber fuel line. Then I am going to take the fuel line and return and fuel tank out of the mix and create a mini system just before the inline filter and return back to the bottle. Kill 2 birds etc clean injectors and IP and see if not using repaired fuel delivery circuit makes any difference to the whole smoking thing - based on that out come i can replace - or not - the fuel lines and work out if the air admittance valve is working correctly. Will update results.

Great idea but stage your tests to gain the maximum information, such as,
1) put return line into jar start and look for bubbles.
2) proceed with your purge fuel as you described.
3) do the same as 2 but with diesel

This should confirm all is good or where to look next.

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