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#1
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Looking at buying a 300SD
I found a 1980 300SD for sale and it doesn't run. I went to look at it and drivers side door panels are off because the windows are slightly down I guess. Went to look at the engine and first thing I notice is the fuel filter is off and laying to the side. Other things include the accelerator pedal is off the rod and was wondering how that attached. Also the grille is a bit broken and wondering how hard that is to get/replace. They're asking $400. Would you all pass on it?
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#2
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would I pass on it?
depends.
what condition is the body in? paint, rust, dents/dings? will the engine run w/new fuel filters installed? are you prepared to spend hundreds if not thousands of dollars &/or hours in order to make it road-worthy? personally, I dig the looks of the w116
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1991 300D ![]() |
#3
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Quohog said it exactly if you get it I hope you have a big bank account.
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#4
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For maybe triple that 400 dollars you could find a diesel Benz that runs and is ready to drive. Not pristine, but running at least.
Richard |
#5
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There is no such thing as a cheap Mercedes.
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#6
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I would avoid the w116. I love how they look, but the climate control in them is a $1000 endevour to get working correctly. If I were you I would look for a 1985 300SD. They have the 2.88 rear end, as well as numerous other little updates over the other years.
The $400 that that car costs you initially will easily quadruple by the time you get it running... save your money and buy a nice example... it will save you money in the long run. Not to mention aggravation.
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2004 F150 4.6L -My Daily 2007 Volvo XC70 -Wife's Daily 1998 Ford F150 -Rear ended 1989 J-spec 420SEL -passed onto its new keeper 1982 BMW 733i -fixed and traded for the 420SEL 2003 Volvo V70 5 Speed -scrapped 1997 E290 Turbo Diesel Wagon -traded for above 1992 BMW 525i -traded in 1990 Silver 300TE -hated the M103 1985 Grey 380SE Diesel Conversion, 2.47 rear end, ABS -Sold, really should have kept this one 1979 Silver 300D "The Silver Slug" -Sold |
#7
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Besides the pinstripes falling off, the paint and body is great. A couple scratches and no dents. I just checked it out again and the engine cranks and sounds good. No idea if the bolts are there, but the door panels are in back.
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#8
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Also I noticed the glow plug light doesn't come on. Could this be a bad relay?
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#9
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it started
go for it, then. down the rabbit hole, but in good company here
![]() take some time getting to know the search feature on this esteemed site, you'll be glad you did. edit: no start-might have glow plug issues-among others, but cranking is good.
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1991 300D ![]() Last edited by Quahog; 08-22-2016 at 09:23 PM. Reason: misread crank for start- explains a lot about me:) |
#10
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Or bad glow plugs.
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[SIGPIC] Diesel loving autocrossing grandpa Architect. 08 Dodge 3/4 ton with Cummins & six speed; I have had about 35 benzes. I have a 39 Studebaker Coupe Express pickup in which I have had installed a 617 turbo and a five speed manual. ![]() ..I also have a 427 Cobra replica with an aluminum chassis. |
#11
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Order some checks.
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#12
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If you intend to spend $400 and hope for the best then you will be disappointed. If you intend to buy it to harvest spare parts then it may be worth the $400 or $300. Towing is a hassle and costs money. There is nothing more expensive than a cheap MBZ.
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Not MBZ nor A/C trained professional but a die-hard DIY and green engineer. Use the info at your own peril. Picked up 2 Infractions because of disagreements. NOW reversed. ![]() W124 Keyless remote, PM for details. http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/mercedes-used-parts-sale-wanted/334620-fs-w124-chasis-keyless-remote-%2450-shipped.html 1 X 2006 CDI 1 x 87 300SDL 1 x 87 300D 1 x 87 300TDT wagon 1 x 83 300D 1 x 84 190D ( 5 sp ) - All R134 converted + keyless entry. |
#13
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Is there a crude way to hook up fuel to see if it fires?
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#14
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Yes. I bought a used engine for my 1985 CA 300D and first tested it on the ground. This is easy because (unlike many cars) you don't need a transmission for the starter to bolt up. I just ran the supply and return fuel hoses into a 2 gal jug of diesel, w/ plastic bag stuffed in the opening for safety. This is fairly safe because diesel doesn't produce flammable vapor like gasoline. I used the hand pump to cycle fuel and remove air bubbles. I hooked a battery to the starter big stud w/ jumper cables, and recall a "remote starter" push-button from that to the solenoid. I don't recall hooking up the glow-plugs, though one could at the 5-pin connector (parallel). 1980 might have the earlier series loop-style, which would just need 1 connection. Your's would be easier since the starter wiring is already there. It was Spring, so fairly warm and it started immediately and idled fine w/ no blow-by (oil filler puffing, many posts). I hooked up a spare exhaust w/ muffler to not bother the neighbors. I recall having the radiator connected, and of course the oil cooler. I later checked compression w/ injectors removed and was pleased to measure >400 psig in all cylinders.
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1984 & 1985 CA 300D's 1964 & 65 Mopar's - Valiant, Dart, Newport 1996 & 2002 Chrysler minivans |
#15
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You will need to hook the secondary filter back up as the IP requires the pressure produced by the lift pump to function.....
__________________
2004 F150 4.6L -My Daily 2007 Volvo XC70 -Wife's Daily 1998 Ford F150 -Rear ended 1989 J-spec 420SEL -passed onto its new keeper 1982 BMW 733i -fixed and traded for the 420SEL 2003 Volvo V70 5 Speed -scrapped 1997 E290 Turbo Diesel Wagon -traded for above 1992 BMW 525i -traded in 1990 Silver 300TE -hated the M103 1985 Grey 380SE Diesel Conversion, 2.47 rear end, ABS -Sold, really should have kept this one 1979 Silver 300D "The Silver Slug" -Sold |
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