Turbo drain tubes pics, does it look right to you?

[Clemson88]

Just wondering if I've pushed the tube upward enough to prevent a leak.

[rocky raccoon]

Can't tell from the photos. Start it up and see if it leaks.

[Clemson88]

Originally Posted by rocky raccoon

Can't tell from the photos. Start it up and see if it leaks.

It may be months before I get it running. I have an interior to restore and install on this car including the dash.

Would better photos help or perhaps dimensions on the depth of the bottom of the tube to the face of the upper oil pan, Perhaps a measurement on the depth of the Oring in the upper tube?

[BillGrissom]

Looks good. I think the upper tube has a constant ID, so pushing the lower tube up more shouldn't make it tighter. The O-ring makes a seal on the circumference. We assume you lubed it w/ oil. Looks like you used an HBNR (green) O-ring which is good. Viton might be better, but perhaps hard to get that size. As I recall, the rubber bushing at the bottom of the lower tube has a recess on the ID to capture the end nipple on the lower tube, so that should locate it, but it has been a few years. Might try rapping the lower tube up a little and see if it pops into place. I don't think you could push it too far. Indeed, it is hard to get clearance to get it out.

Excellent photo. I don't recall being able to see that check-valve thing on the air cleaner oil drain stub. I could tell something was there by blowing, and figured they had something to stop crankcase air from flowing that way under hard acceleration. BTW, my 1985 CA engine doesn't have that stub in the upper oil pan. They drain the blow-by oil straight into the turbo inlet, which seems a nasty choice.

[Clemson88]

Bill, are you talking about a check valve on your car or one in the photo? I'm confused.

BTW, I drove the pipe upward with a 3/8" 14mm socket. If you point the open end of the socket downward it doesn't mar the end of the turbo drain pipe. I couldn't tell if it clicked into place or not. I guess I'll go ahead and cap the pan then fill it with oil. Do we suppose that if the seating isn't correct the drain tube assembly will leak without starting the engine?

[Dan Stokes]

On Mutt, I replaced that "slide into the bell" connection with about 4" of oil-safe rubber tubing and couple of hose clamps - mine no longer attaches to an air cleaner. I cut off the bell and installed the hose between the metal tubing and a longer hose off the top of the top metal tube now leads to a vapor separation tank (standard hot rod part from AllStar). Not suggesting that route for yours as it sounds like you're trying to keep it more or less stock but just letting you know that there IS an alternative if you need it.

Dan

[SD Blue]

Dan, I believe he is talking about the turbo drain, not the oil separator return.

Clemson88, the lower end, that inserts into the oil pan, is the part that usually has issues. As long as the lower o-ring pops in to place before pushing the external grommet down, you should be good.

[Dan Stokes]

Duhoh (or whatever Homer Simpson says). Right you are. I still think I removed the bell but I'll have to go look. IIRC, the "bigger" compressor side of my turbo made the drain connector too high and so it didn't re-engage back into the required spot so I did the connector hose deal - I probably did that in a couple of spots.

Dan

[Clemson88]

Originally Posted by SD Blue

Dan, I believe he is talking about the turbo drain, not the oil separator return.

Clemson88, the lower end, that inserts into the oil pan, is the part that usually has issues. As long as the lower o-ring pops in to place before pushing the external grommet down, you should be good.

I couldn't do it that way. I put the grommet on the pipe, put the o-rings on then pushed the pipe down though the hole. I tried to push the grommet down but it wouldn't go so I pushed the pipe on through enough to get the grommet to seat. Then I drove, actually pried the pipe upward as far as it would go with a huge screw driver and a 14mm socket.

I swear, this thing won't go further, I'm just wondering if I buggered something trying to do it this way.

[charmalu]

Replacing the Turbo Oil drain tube is easy...see this thread

turbo drain tube install 2 minutes, no tools
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[Clemson88]

Originally Posted by charmalu

Replacing the Turbo Oil drain tube is easy...see this thread

turbo drain tube install 2 minutes, no tools
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Youtube won't allow public access so I wasn't permitted to view the video.

[SD Blue]

Originally Posted by Clemson88

I couldn't do it that way. I put the grommet on the pipe, put the o-rings on then pushed the pipe down though the hole. I tried to push the grommet down but it wouldn't go so I pushed the pipe on through enough to get the grommet to seat. Then I drove, actually pried the pipe upward as far as it would go with a huge screw driver and a 14mm socket.

I swear, this thing won't go further, I'm just wondering if I buggered something trying to do it this way.

I noticed the YouTube video is now marked private and is requiring a log in.

However, the lower turbo drain tube has caused much frustration due to much misinformation about how to install it. You will need to take the upper tube loose as well and tilt it to remove both upper and lower tubes.

Lubricate the grommet and push it up the shaft of the lower tube some. Then install the upper and lower O-rings. Join the two tubes and push them together till they bottom out. Maneuver them into place and seat the lower o-ring. Lift the upper tube into place and connect to the turbo. Then work the grommet down until it locks into the lower oil pan.

When done correctly, you will realize why it is really easy. If you have to force anything, something is wrong.

[Clemson88]

Sam, I've definitely done something wrong though I probably pushed upward on the tube a lot harder than necessary. It move upward a little over a quarter inch then it refused to go further no matter how hard I pressed.

I'll mark your instructions and make sure I follow them if I have a leak.

In your opinion will it damage my engine to turn it by hand just enough to get the torque converter drain plug on the bottom for a fluid change? It is without oil due to having no oil cooler installed and I want to finish beneath the car before I return to work under the hood. Mucho trabajo, poco dinero.

[SD Blue]

Entiendo mucho trabajo y poco dinero. Yo tambien!

I would think there is enough residual oil coating the moving parts of the engine to not cause a problem when turning it by hand.

[charmalu]

Originally Posted by Clemson88

Youtube won't allow public access so I wasn't permitted to view the video.

Didn`t know it was private.
I just remember when LUTZTD posted it originally a few years ago, so did a Google search of it.
I did not click on the video when I found the thread.

As I remember, he held the tube with one hand, reached up from under the car, and then shoved it in.

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