AC hose identification and p/n help request
 

Welp, I'm in a bit of a pickle. I can't seem to find a p/n for an AC hose I need to replace on my '84 300D. This particular hose goes between the compressor outlet, under the engine, and back up where it connects to another hose going to the condenser. I was having a hard time getting it to seat fully and not have it wiggling around, and the threaded end on the hose twisted inside the hose, so I decided I couldn't trust it and would need to replace it instead of messing with it. Attached are two photos of the compressor outlet pipe and the hose I'm talking about.

Seems this was a repair of some sort, as the p/n on the foil label on the hose is 617 130 04 57 and that's for the entire assembly.

I don't have the desire to spend another $230 on another component nor do I have the time to wait for one to arrive as the car is going to it's new owner on Monday. So I just tightened the hose clamp, dropped a perfectly fitting white plastic o-ring from an AC o-ring kit into the nut and tightened it all up snug. With the plastic o-ring in the nut the fitting no longer wobbles on the pipe, and if it holds vacuum and pressure, I'm going to call it good.

Did you use Nylog ?

That isn't original since the factory hose has a crimp collar there and everywhere. Somebody did a repair w/ a screw hose clamp. At least they used an AC-type clamp (w/ locating finger). Wonder where they got the fitting since these are metric threads and probably rare in the U.S. Perhaps they re-used an old fitting, which is fine. It should be an O-ring fitting, and if leaking just change the O-ring (HBNR type). A better-looking clamp is an Oeticker stepless ear clamp.

Nope, I have no idea what that is.

Doesn't matter anyway, as the AC Delco reman compressor was bad right out of the box. Pissed away $18 worth of Enviro-Safe, too. New compressor gets delivered tomorrow, and I will be charging the system with R134a as I can't find any ES stuff locally. Too bad for my brother-in-law; I was trying out the Enviro-Safe stuff since he lives in Phoenix. Hopefully the 134 is cool enough for his tour of NY and the eastern seaboard and he can find someone to replace it with an R12 substitute in Arizona.

I changed the o-ring to a new HBNR type, but the fitting wouldn't fully seal/secure even when it was fully tightened. It didn't seem to leak with the ES134 charge, but I will open it back up tomorrow when I swap out the compressor and double check that the o-ring didn't vacate the premises.

The O-ring seals circumferentially, so as long as the mating tube slides into the fitting, it shouldn't leak. The threads don't need to be tight to seal, just to keep it secure. If the threads are boogered-up or not metric, then the nut may not be going down enough. If you count >4 turns of the nut, the tubes should be engaged.

A better guess is that it is still leaking between inner hose and fitting. Since that was loose, it suggests the rubber is old and hard. Look for my post where I changed that HP rubber. I used standard -10 AC barrier hose, as I recall, and routed it straight over to the condenser. You can buy on ebay cheap, but may not have time before shipping the car. A local AC shop could probably sell you some or even rebuild your hose if you bring in the fittings w/ the desired clocking marked.

I have had the exact same R4 problem years ago, it is a common theme with them. It was the "last straw" for me, and was the last R4 I used. Good luck with the replacement, you will need it.

I hope you read the AC thread in my signature.... before you invest more time and money...

IF you have one of the later R4 compressors and follow the AC rules.. you should be just fine... don't let ROLLGUY's negative comment affect your decision ... millions of them have been used with R134a just fine in other vehicles..

New compressor (with stepped ports) installed, bigger o-ring on the repair fitting, 2.6# of R134A and all is well. Compressor is smooth and quiet, temps aren't freezing but nice. My job is done.

My comment was not meant to be negative, I was just sharing my (same) experience with an "out of the box" bad R4. What I did NOT share (but will now), is the many "out of the box" bad R4's my local A/C shop has had to deal with. I was offering "good luck" to the OP, because maybe he will have something that has alluded me when dealing with these compressors. As always YMMV.

One thing I did notice with the new compressor is it was a private label brand made by 4 Seasons, and the reman AC Delco was reman'd by 4 Seasons. Though they both had labels stating such, only the reman compressor had an initial oil charge. While it was pressurized and sealed correctly, the new compressor had no oil in it at all! So I had to delay installing the new compressor a while as I let it "soak" clutch side down with some fresh PAG 150.

I was going to comment on how everyone complains about how difficult changing the compressor is, and that it only took me at most 10 minutes both times, until I realized that the aftermarket o-ring fitting on the compressor outlet pipe on my particular car makes a huge difference.

I am curios what p/n is the new 4 Seasons R4 you installed, where bought and how much $? I just installed a reman Factory Air by 4 Seasons GM R4 p/n 57228 . It held pressure 125 psi Argon overnight so it's good to go for charging. All hoses are original to the car with new o-rings throughout, new TXV, dryer also..

10 minutes to install a R4 in a W123? I don't believe it! Tell us how you did it!
Done on a lift? Still don't believe it.

Advance Auto "ToughOne", p/n T58228, made by 4 Seasons. I bought it on my wholesale account, so I won't divulge the price.

Yes, 10 minutes, and until a few days ago, I had never touched an AC compressor on a W123 before. Both my lifts are occupied so I did it on my back with the car on ramps. But like I mentioned, having the o-ring fitting on the compressor outlet pipe probably makes all the difference, as I could leave the "pipeline" attached to the compressor when taking it off and mount it to the compressor before installing it in the car. Other than that, I had the upper bolt on the side closest to the engine block sitting in the bracket, and with one hand holding the compressor up, I started that bolt. When it had enough of a purchase on the compressor, I got the upper outer bolt into the pipeline and into the bracket and through the adjuster ring. I worked it back out until the adjuster ring was just caught on the tip of the bolt and tilted the compressor to slide the spacer in, then I threaded the bolt into the compressor. Same thing with the lower bolt closest to the block, got it into the bracket then wedged the spacer in and started the bolt.

Maybe 10 min to get the bolts started and the manifold on. But tensioning the belt and tightening all the bolts alone takes at least 10 min. Add more time to find just the right wrenches to swing in the restricted spaces, unless you just did one the week before and remember.