Good video. I would add that I like to cut the boot after I slip it on. Sometimes a tear can start at the ragged edge of the boot. I use Dorman and the boots may not be as tough.

The last one I had ripped on me. I tried to return it and the clerk got really intrusive about how I put it on. He said "did you have the tool because nobody has the proper tool. Everyone tries a tranny funnel and rips the boot then they return it saying it was defective"

Luckily I'd posted a selfie of me with the boot gun earlier that day. I showed him the photo in my phone of my green boot gun and calmly asked for a refund. I'd say I lose about one in five of the Dorman boots. Especially since I like to expand them inverted to install the inner without actually taking the axel off the diff.

This is another supplier of flex boots and installation tools. (From Australia, it seems. They say on their site that their tool can be used without removing the axles. But that must depend on the vehicle. May be easier on a FWD?

STRETCH CV Boots – STRETCH CV Boots, Rack Boots, Tools, Wipers & Gloves

On vehicle boot replacement (FWD):
https://youtu.be/oEKY0uFlBpc

I suppose it all depends on how you define "removing." There is no way to install a one-piece boot unless at least one end of is disconnected. And if you can get a boot on the shaft for one end, you should be able to get it on the other end. It's just a matter or orientation. Unless, of course, you are dealing with an axle which features a center support bearing, which a number of FWD vehicles have.

The factory boots are not overly expensive and are vastly superior quality .

I buy mine from the Classic Center and they ship to my door .

FWIW, those cute little tubes of special short fiber grease are plenty *if* you're diligent .

So, how do you install them? If you have homokinetic axles, don't you have to cut off the cans and then use a special press to install new cans?

SPLIT BOOTS for 123
 

It seems that there are universal split boots that should fit the 123.

In UK seems they call boots gaiters!

This is a universal model.
This boot is suitable for shafts 19-35mm and CV joints 56-110mm. Our cars are in that range, I believe (25 & 64mm ?) There may be others. For example, Stickyboots.

I did a boot replacement for a guy a while back. He got estimates for replacing the boots, and for good quality rebuilds plus labor to R&R the axles. He found out that the price was about the same as buying the boot gun and boots. I did the labor in exchange for the boot gun. It worked out good for both of us. He has new boots on his original axles, and I have a boot gun for future jobs. The Astoria 2000 is a great system, and I give it two thumbs way up.

Yes .

I am lucky (so far) as one of my W123's has annular CV joints .

Still and all the factory boots last hundreds of thousand of miles and age out before they wear out, no aftermarket boot I've ever seen on anything, will do that .

Split boots are a passable jerry-rig but they really do need to be glued along the seam and it's amazingly difficult to not get one iota of lubricant on that dang seam .

I wish there were still any axle rebuilders near me, all gone it seems .

You do not need any adhesive or glue where the boot bolts together it will not leak there the critical fit is on both ends and it is better to get the boot a little bigger the shim it then too small. I shim it by cutting a piece off the old boot get good tight fit on both ends and your good to go. Wish the company would make an exact fit but so far have not found any yet.

You need to do that on one end of the Homokinetic Axle.

People have used a large channel locks to crimp over the new can lip. I have had no experience with that so cannot comment on it.

This is not the Boots from Mercedes but the stock type boots on my Cardone Rebuilt Axles started getting little cracks after about 5 years of use. So not all of the stock type boots are created equal.

Found another UK company that sells a cone, a pneumatic expander and a mechanical expander operated by an electric drill!
Pneumatic: https://vimeo.com/9674928
Mechanical: http://www.toolstop.co.uk/sealey-bsl104-cvj-boot-tool-mechanical-p75175
Cone: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=j8Qyr3x05ZU

They say: "Install CVJ boot without removing drive shaft from the vehicle or the CV joint from the drive shaft." Question is - On our W123s, would there be enough clearance for the expander tools? Looks like there might be for the cone.

These show up on ebay & amazon.

By the Way, This is what WHunter said here:

CV Joint Boot Replacement
 

Wow ~ that cone thing looks slick .

Where to buy ? .

They can be found on eBay. Probably ship from UK. There are also China knock-offs - not much cheaper. Some have used a transmission funnel, but this cone is cheap enough and seems rugged and designed for the job.

Pneumatic looks best, but the cone may be better if trying to change boots without disconnecting axle from diff. ??

Ah, HA !
 

Thanx very much ! I simply typed in 'CV Boot Cone' and got :

https://www.ebay.com/sch/i.html?_from=R40&_trksid=p2051541.m570.l1313.TR1.TRC0.A0.H0.Xcv+boot+cone.TRS0&_nkw=cv+boot+cone&_sa cat=6000