Axle boots
 

One of the rear axle CV boots on my '82 300D (185k miles) just cracked and started to leak. I caught it almost immediately, so I am hopeful that no significant damage occurred. The axles are original.

Questions:

If I elect to reboot the axles, is it possible to adequately clean and inspect the joint for damage/wear without removing the "cans?"

What is the best lubricant to use for the joint? It appears that the lube typically furnished with boot kits is of inadequate quantity for the MB axle.

do this:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=-nrYcQsYIzk

you can use a funnel if you don't have/don't want the flex gun

Great video. Answered a couple of questions. Thanks.

I am wondering if it would be wise to flush the joint with solvent and finish up with brake cleaner. I really don't like the idea of leaving 35 year-old lube/contamination behind. But I would not want to leave any solvent behind, either.

My 85 300D has done about 270k miles. The boots show some cracking, but no leaks.

I was 'thinking' about tackling the job, but at close to 78, maybe a bit too much of a job for me :(

The video is great and I am sure I could replace the boots. But quite a bit of work needed lying on back under car to get the axles out. Good write-up here:
http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/diesel-discussion/220000-w123-how-replacing-rear-axles.html

Anyone have an idea of what a shop would charge to either re-boot or install new axles?

For starters, you can spend anywhere from $50 to $500+ for one new axle. I would guess 3-4 hours labor to R&R.

What's the report on those boots and that system of installation? Who sells the boots?

www.astoria2000.net

The boot kits are also available through a number of parts vendors.

First indentify what type of axle you have.

With the Stock type boots which are thick and cannot be stretched you need to take the axle apart an remove one if the Cans. That is if you have a homkinetic axle which has a similar Can on each end.

If you have an annular axle you can easily change to the stock type boots. You take apart the end that the is nearest the differential (it will have bolts going through it).

Either the Astoria Flexx Boots or the Dorman Universal Boots can be used with the clamps that come with their respective kits.

Both the Astoria and Dorman kits come with CV Grease. I have experience only with the Dorman Boots and the grease packet in the kit is not enough so you would need to buy more grease.
I got my Dorman Boots in a larger kit that had 12 boots because it was cheaper that way and there is always a chance you are going to damage a boot during installation. However, individul boot kits and the 12 boot kits are sold at the local Autoparts Stores.

I have not read that the Astoria Boots can be bought locally. But that was my choice.

Grease or Oil? Your choice.
The famous axle rebuilder in Colarado uses grease unless you request Oil.

There is at least 3 long threads on how to and what to use on changing Axle Boots.

These are my Homokinetic Axles with Dorman Universal Boots.

I have the original homokinetic axles with crimped cans on both ends.

Would it be possible to install the Astoria type boots on homokinetic axles without disconnecting the axle at the diff end? (Assume the Astoria tool was available to make it easier. )

Another question! This UK site gives dimensions of the axle boots. Seems that for a 1985 300Dturbo, the dimensions are 25mmx64mm or 1in x 2.5" . Do those sound right?

https://www.buycarparts.co.uk/mercedes-benz/saloon-w123/417/10174/bellow

In theory, yes. I suspect that it might be necessary to lower the differential in order to get clearance for the tool. You basically install the boot on the tool small-end first,with the large end folded back. Then flop it over once it's on the axle. Adding lube with the axle installed would pose its own challenges. (I speak from watching videos, not personal experience. If you missed the video, see the link in post #7.)

I have 2 questions:

1. How much does funnel cost?
2. How much does gun cost?

I rebooted mine a while back with speedi boots that have the little screws that bolt the split boot together while on car. I could not find the perfect size boot but I made it fit and they are still holding up today yet many thousands mies later.

I read your post about those speedi boots. Great that they are still working.

It was the reason I asked a few posts back about the sizes needed. That UK site said 25mm x 64mm. Or 1" x 2.52". I crawled under my 107 and measured. The drive shaft is 1". I could only get caliper on OD of boot at large end and it was a bit more than 2 3/4". So allowing for the OE boot wall thickness, the 2.52" seems about right.

If we could find Speedi boots that are 1" x 2.5", they would provide a much easier fix that having to pull the axles. Have to check with Dorman. The split adhesive type seem to work, but seems many don't trust adhesives! Not sure if bolts are better? Do you still put an adhesive in the joint? If not what stops oil/grease from coming out?

http://i.ebayimg.com/00/s/MTIwMFgxMj..._id=880000500F