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#1
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who heres repalced ball joints on a W126??
i thinks me ball joints are bad........ The reason i think this i get a clunk when going over bumps, and sometimes when i turn the wheel, more of like a !pop! actually. Who here has done them? how involved is it? I'm thinking of taking the a-arm off and taking it somewhere to get the new joints pressed in, how hard is that, what all is involved? thanks
Ryan
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83 300SD.......sold 96 integra SE....sold 99 a4 quattro....sold 2001 IS300.......sold 2002 330i.........current. 2004 highlander limited....current. |
#2
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i had the car up on a lift today, and there is noticable play when moving the wheel up with your hand, about 1cm i'd guess. How long do you think this thing has before it lets go?
thanks Ryan
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83 300SD.......sold 96 integra SE....sold 99 a4 quattro....sold 2001 IS300.......sold 2002 330i.........current. 2004 highlander limited....current. |
#3
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Really hard to tell, Ryan. The old joints can be banged out with a ball peen hammer, a good strong vice, and some hammering skill. To reinstall requires a special clamp just for this job, I believe the 126 tool is the one used on 123's and 107's. Pretty pricey tool, several hundred dollars, so you may be better off finding a shop with the tool.
Gilly
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Click here to see the items I have up for auction at EBay Click here to see a photo album of my '62 Sprite Project Moneypit (Now Sold) |
#4
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what about taking the A-arm off and taking JUST that to a shop to save on the rest of the labor, opinions on that??? please guys help me out i'd like to start tear down tomarrow, this week i have an '01 jetta to drive while mine's down!
Ryan
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83 300SD.......sold 96 integra SE....sold 99 a4 quattro....sold 2001 IS300.......sold 2002 330i.........current. 2004 highlander limited....current. |
#5
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The ball joint is pressed into the steering knuckle, not the lower control arm. You really need to get the steering knuckle off the car to replace it, mainly to get it hammered out.
Gilly
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Click here to see the items I have up for auction at EBay Click here to see a photo album of my '62 Sprite Project Moneypit (Now Sold) |
#6
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hmm, i am very confused now, i think it is time to look at my diagrams...... can you tell i've never done alot with front end work in the past?? lol
thanks Ryan
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83 300SD.......sold 96 integra SE....sold 99 a4 quattro....sold 2001 IS300.......sold 2002 330i.........current. 2004 highlander limited....current. |
#7
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What kind of special tool do you need to press the ball joint in? I just assumed that you just press it in using machine shop type of press.
Aivars |
#8
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Tool
You gotta have it. You can rent it from Performance Products, or probably have an independent specialist do it for you.
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82 300d 194 75 240d sold Gulfstar 41 4-107 Perkins Westerbeke 4.4 Gen Puegot Bicycle Legs AYP Lawn Tractor Briggs 12.5 |
#9
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i understand you need the special tool, but i also was under the impression that you could take the steering knuckle/A-arm or whatever off and take it somwhere and have them do it using the special tool, and it would save a ton on labor. Can anyone back this up? please?!
Ryan
__________________
83 300SD.......sold 96 integra SE....sold 99 a4 quattro....sold 2001 IS300.......sold 2002 330i.........current. 2004 highlander limited....current. |
#10
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Ryan:
You're absolutely correct in your observation about removing the steering knuckle (not the A-arm, not "whatever") to have the ball joint replaced. You can also pound the old joint out if you have a sturdy vise to clamp the knuckle into, and a good heavy ball peen hammer. You'd mount the knuckle into the vise upside down and pound it out from the "bottom", the part of the knuckle that faces down when mounted in the car. The new ball joint then goes in through the "top" (the opposite of the way it came out. Because of the design of the knuckle, you really need the special tool to reinstall it, the knuckle kind of curves over the hole the joint goes in to, so it's not possible to use a normal hydraulic press to get it installed. Gilly
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Click here to see the items I have up for auction at EBay Click here to see a photo album of my '62 Sprite Project Moneypit (Now Sold) |
#11
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ok thank you very much, that is the answer i was looking for. Now my question is, what exactly is the steering knuckle, and how do i get it off? and also, do you need to compress the spring to get it off. thanks again!
Ryan
__________________
83 300SD.......sold 96 integra SE....sold 99 a4 quattro....sold 2001 IS300.......sold 2002 330i.........current. 2004 highlander limited....current. |
#12
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i think i may finally be starting to understand this. My understanding after looking at my perf. products diagram and reading what you've helped me with, is that the ball joint basically connects the steering knuckle to the control arm, and that it is pressed into the steering knuckle but bolted on to the control arm??(This is where i start to get real unsure). If that thinking is true that would mean all i'd have to remove is the wheel bearing, rotor, caliper, and upper and lower ball joints correct? I'm starting to think that with my level of confusion on this topic that i should just take it somewhere, only problem with that is that i can't afford to take it anywhere!!! ahhh to have money.....
Ryan
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83 300SD.......sold 96 integra SE....sold 99 a4 quattro....sold 2001 IS300.......sold 2002 330i.........current. 2004 highlander limited....current. |
#13
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Ryan:
If we really have to go into basics like this, do you really want to do the job? The steering knuckle is the part the lower ball joint presses in to. The steering arm (which the tie rod connects to) is bolted to it, and the spindle is an integral part of the knuckle itself. You wouldn't need to compress the spring to remove it, but MB recommends if you don't compress the spring, that after you remove the wheel that you set the lower control arm on blocks. The shock will keep the spring from flying out though (keeps the lower control arm from dropping far enough to allow the spring to come out. But evidently MB doesn't trust the shock "that much". After removing the wheeel and setting the control arm on blocks (jackstand or whatever), the disassembly process is roughly like this: Remove brake caliper and hang up on a old wire clothes hanger, don't let it hang by the brake hose! Remove brake rotor along with the hub, keep it clean, don't allow dirt into the hub grease, although you can wipe the old grease off the spindle, be sure to smear the spindle with new grease prior to reassembly. Unbolt the steering arm from the knuckle. take nut off the upper ball joint and detach from upper part of knuckle. Take nut off lower ball joint and detach ball joint (along with the knuckle) from the lower control arm. Gilly
__________________
Click here to see the items I have up for auction at EBay Click here to see a photo album of my '62 Sprite Project Moneypit (Now Sold) |
#14
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man that sounds incredibly simple!!! I plan on starting that very shortly, and ordering the parts soon as well. I appreciate your time in going into the "basics" with me, and please dont see it as a waste of your time etc, it has greatly helped me. I know i should probably take the car somewhere, but i simply can't afford to. Besides, i've got to learn sometime right? i dont want to be one of these guys that takes their car in for everything, and someday when i get older i'd like to restore a car( I waver back and forth on which one ). Thank you very much once again, i'll keep you posted on my progress thanks,
Ryan
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83 300SD.......sold 96 integra SE....sold 99 a4 quattro....sold 2001 IS300.......sold 2002 330i.........current. 2004 highlander limited....current. |
#15
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oh yea, one more quick question, are there any other rubber bushings/joints etc you recomend replacing that are fairly cheap "while i'm in there". thanks again
Ryan
__________________
83 300SD.......sold 96 integra SE....sold 99 a4 quattro....sold 2001 IS300.......sold 2002 330i.........current. 2004 highlander limited....current. |
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