Leaks Leaks Leaks

[dieselmania]

Now that we have a new drive way I am motivated to fix several long time leaks on my 1987 300D. The first is transmission, I spent some time under the car today with brake cleaner and rags. It looks to me like my tranny leak is at the shaft seal for the shifter. Is this replaceable from the outside? Since I need shift rod bushings I thought I would drop the tail of the tranny down (after removing the fan shroud) and change that seal at the same time. Maybe the NSS too, although I don't know if mine is bad or if it's not working right because of the bad bushings. I don't know how it engages, internally or externally. There is a part that rotates around in a semi-circle but not connected to anything, I don't have a clue what that is for.

The second leak looks to be PSF at the pitman shaft seal, anyone change that one in the car?

Lastly I have a motor oil leak that is originating at the vacuum pot under the EGR which I believe to be my wastegate controller? Does this part leak, or where it is mounted? The oil looks to be originating underneath it. It's been a while since I have had time for this car and I have forgotten some stuff.

Here are pics of everything cleaned up except the first tranny pic was before cleanup.

edit: Ok had to reduce the picture size but here they are...Thanks.....

[dieselmania]

Almost forgot the shot of the NSS, why does the yellow part rotate around, is it supposed to be engaged to something?

[sixto]

It's been a while but I think the yellow part is the bayonet lock ring for the NSS electrical connector.

Sixto
98 E320s sedan and wagon

[Squiggle Dog]

Good luck with your leaks. It's a lot of work to seal up everything, but very worth it to have a car that doesn't leave embarrassing spots on other peoples' driveways. My 1980 W116 300SD is currently leak-free (rebuilt radiator, replaced oil cooler, installed new oil cooler hoses, replaced front crank seal, oil pan gasket, valve cover gasket, fuel hoses, oil tower gasket, turbo drain seals, power steering pump seals, replaced steering box, all new brakes, and replaced all external transmission seals) except for the control pressure rod shaft seal which cannot be replaced without taking the transmission completely apart. So, I have a car that doesn't leak a drop of anything--except it leaves a big puddle of transmission fluid because the control pressure rod shaft seal can't be replaced unless I pull the transmission completely apart. It's frustrating.

[dieselmania]

Originally Posted by Squiggle Dog

Good luck with your leaks. It's a lot of work to seal up everything, but very worth it to have a car that doesn't leave embarrassing spots on other peoples' driveways. My 1980 W116 300SD is currently leak-free (rebuilt radiator, replaced oil cooler, installed new oil cooler hoses, replaced front crank seal, oil pan gasket, valve cover gasket, fuel hoses, oil tower gasket, turbo drain seals, power steering pump seals, replaced steering box, all new brakes, and replaced all external transmission seals) except for the control pressure rod shaft seal which cannot be replaced without taking the transmission completely apart. So, I have a car that doesn't leak a drop of anything--except it leaves a big puddle of transmission fluid because the control pressure rod shaft seal can't be replaced unless I pull the transmission completely apart. It's frustrating.

Thanks, I am considering just pulling the tranny out and sealing the whole thing, that is my worst leak right now. I did some research and it may not be possible to remove the selector shaft even with the tranny dropped down in the back, there's just not much room down there.

[dieselmania]

Originally Posted by sixto

It's been a while but I think the yellow part is the bayonet lock ring for the NSS electrical connector.

Sixto
98 E320s sedan and wagon

Well that makes sense, thanks.

[dieselmania]

I have the tranny and the pitman seal figured out but can anyone help me figure out where the motor oil is leaking? It looks like it is coming from the waste gate actuator or underneath it somewhere.

[dieselmania]

From more research it looks like I should rebuild, or at least reseal the turbo. At 180K hopefully it wont need a shaft or wheels. I had it out about 15 years ago when I replaced all the stainless bellows that were cracked and I remember dropping it off at a turbo shop. They said it was in excellent shape and didn't need anything at that time.