Turbo (KKK) and exhaust nut questions: 83 300TD?
 

I have the intake/exhaust manifold off to check turbo and replace leaking gaskets.

A couple of questions:

1) I need to replace the wastegate hose but the Mercedes wastegate hose (part number 000 098 07 83) is listed as being 9+ inches while mine is 12+ inches. I assume this part number is specific to the Garrett Turbo so it will be too short for the KKK. What's on there appears to be regular rubber washer/vacuum hose. Can I safely do the same again?

2) Are the exhaust nuts self locking and so do I need to replace them when reinstalling? The current nuts appear to be in OK shape but FSM says replace them.

Thanks for your help!

Nuts + Hosing [don't even think about it.]
 

The Exhaust nuts "Should Be" "Öval-ed" (I.E. One Time Use Only) and they are self locking.

The only stricture I'd put on the Wastegate hose is that it be Petroleum resistant (You're gonna get some Oil Mist in it from the pressurized post
turbo air.)

Typical rubber Fuel Hose or Vacuum Hose ought to work as long as it is not too close to the exhaust maniflold

Boost pressures are typically only 11-12 psi so there is no high pressure to deal with.

What about this?
 

Thanks for the input.

I got some regular vacuum line from Napa which seems to be what was on there before. Line was a little swollen at the turbo end (closest to exhaust manifold) and beginning to crack. I have no idea how long it was on there.

I have no way to source OEM exhaust nuts locally. The guy at Napa suggested regular nuts with a lock washer. Seems like it would work. They aren't copper plated like the OEM nuts which I assume is to resist rusting. Any thoughts on that solution?

If they are the 12mm hex exhaust nuts (000-990-32-50), this site sponsor has them...and they deliver.
1983 Mercedes-Benz 300TD Base Wagon - Exhaust Gaskets, Hardware, and Miscellaneous - Page 1

To avoid shipping charges on small orders, I usually add maintenance items to the order to quailfy for free shipping.
I figure I eventually will need the oil filters, shift rod bushings, etc.

Those are the wrong size
 

Alec300SD I found those too and was about to order them but then I double checked and they are the wrong size for the car. It has a 10mm stud and the nuts are 17mm hex.

I think this one is the right part: 910-113-010-004
Pelican Parts - European Automotive Parts and Accessories - Porsche • BMW • Mercedes • Volkswagen • Audi • Saab • Volvo • MINI

but specs aren't listed and I haven't been able to find them elsewhere.

I hesitate to shell out $31.50 for seven nuts that can't be returned if they are the wrong size.

Waiting hear back from Pelican on size specs for that nut.

If the original nuts cannot be threaded on without a tool, the self-locking feature is still intact. That was the case with mine, so I reused the original nuts. And that was about 40k miles ago.

Thanks,
I'll try that.

It looks like 910113-010004 is the right part number.
Item number 29 on the top diagram in this link.
I may need them as well, since I'll be installing W115 long runner intakes on my cars.

They look to be cheaper at this dealership online parts store.

That looks to be the right nut. Thanks Alec300SD.
I wonder if non-turbo engines have smaller diameter manifold studs.

I tried my old nuts as tangofox007 suggested. I could only get them thread on up to the crown of the nut (the ovaled part) so it looks like the self-locking feature is still intact.

Thanks All

Great news that you could re-use the exhaust manifold lock nuts.

BTW, the small 12mm hex exhaust lock nut (000-990-32-50), is used to mount the downpipe to the turbo.
Item 41 on this link.

You sure the OE is copper plated? All the exhaust nuts I've seen are solid copper. Flanged solid copper exhaust lock nuts aren't difficult to find. There are plenty of online sources for these.

You do not want a regular nut and lock washer. It will fuse to the stud, and next time you attempt removal, it'll snap the stud off. You do not want this.

In my opinion, MB is a bit overzealous with its "one time use" recommendations.

All the manufacturers are. In many cases, it's simply because the OE bolt comes with loctite pre-applied. Apply a drop yourself prior to reinstalling, and it's perfectly safe to reuse the old hardware. It makes sense from a dealer service perspective though. Replacing a $1.00 bolt is cheaper than paying the mechanic to properly clean and dry the old bolt, and apply loctite, particularly if the old bolt is load bearing (e.g. suspension) and may be dirty and rusty and need the threads chased.

TTY bolts should never be reused though, for obvious reasons.