Oil Pan Gasket Leaking After Changing on 83 TD

[jdgrand]

I just changed my oil pan gasket, along with oil cooler lines, oil filter canister gaskets, and turbo drain tube gasket. Added with 8 quarts of oil, fired it up and voila gasket leaks at two spots along rear edge of oil pan. I'm sure I double checked torque on all the oil pan nuts (10 nm) but obviously something is amiss.

What's the best way to proceed? I assume trying to retorque the nuts won't be effective since it's already leaking. So I guess I need to drain the oil, drop the pan, and see what the gasket looks like. Is it possible to clean it off and reuse it? Or should I just order another one?

Thanks

[Diesel911]

Be 100 percent sure where the leak is coming from.
You might as well try re-tightening them as the gasket compresses.
It could be the previous owner over tightened dimpling in the pan around the holes and if that is so re-tightening a reasonable amount beyond the torque may stop the leak.

When the pan if off look for the dimpling I mentioned and return it to being flat Then you might have a chance that the original torque is going to work.

If you did not use any gasket adhesive or sealant it should be easy to remove the gasket, degrees it and re-install it with adhesive or sealant.

For myself I seldom install any gasket withoug adhesive or sealant on at least one side of the gasket.
I usually use silicons sealant on oil pans were the pan is sheetmetal. Some people get all excited not useing silicon sealant but pieces of it won't usually break off if you install it and let it sit and cure for like 4 hours before putting the oil in.

Also cured silicon sealant floats in Oil and your Oil Pump has a screen on it that feed near the bottom of the pan. So I have never had issues with the careful application of silicon sealant. The main thing is the silicon sealant fills in gaps real well.

If you use brake cleaner to degrease the metal the silicon is on and the gasket (if you are re-using it) it will be glued on after cured. That won't happen if you wipe the oil off with a clean rag.

Next best would be the old school type non-hardening permatex in a tube. it is messy

[Clemson88]

Originally Posted by Diesel911

Be 100 percent sure where the leak is coming from.
You might as well try re-tightening them as the gasket compresses.
It could be the previous owner over tightened dimpling in the pan around the holes and if that is so re-tightening a reasonable amount beyond the torque may stop the leak.

When the pan if off look for the dimpling I mentioned and return it to being flat Then you might have a chance that the original torque is going to work.

If you did not use any gasket adhesive or sealant it should be easy to remove the gasket, degrees it and re-install it with adhesive or sealant.

For myself I seldom install any gasket withoug adhesive or sealant on at least one side of the gasket.
I usually use silicons sealant on oil pans were the pan is sheetmetal. Some people get all excited not useing silicon sealant but pieces of it won't usually break off if you install it and let it sit and cure for like 4 hours before putting the oil in.

Also cured silicon sealant floats in Oil and your Oil Pump has a screen on it that feed near the bottom of the pan. So I have never had issues with the careful application of silicon sealant. The main thing is the silicon sealant fills in gaps real well.

If you use brake cleaner to degrease the metal the silicon is on and the gasket (if you are re-using it) it will be glued on after cured. That won't happen if you wipe the oil off with a clean rag.

Next best would be the old school type non-hardening permatex in a tube. it is messy

+1 on that. My money is on a deformed pan lip.

[tangofox007]

Originally Posted by Diesel911

Be 100 percent sure where the leak is coming from.

A leaking vacuum pump gasket will allow oil to run down and accumulate at the top of the lower oil pan, making it appear that the oil pan gasket is the source of the leak.

[Mxfrank]

As will a leaky front msin seal. I usually ‘wet’ both sides with RTV. Not a heavy coat, just a light smear. I also use Vibratite (a low strength locker) on the bolts.