Parts for W123 front end rebuild?
 

Hello, all

I know I saw a post about this sometime in the past from someone else, but I can't find it with the search function.

Basically, I'm trying to compile a list of parts needed for a front end rebuild. I got my 240D on the road two years ago this month, and since that time, there's been a bit of uneasiness, vagueness of feel, and a slight clunk in the front end. A few weeks back, it suddenly got a lot worse to the point that I didn't feel safe driving it, so I parked it in the garage.

A little background - the car was a three year project, from early 2012 through late 2015. I did almost everything on the car. Suspension-wise, I mostly ignored the front end, thinking it was in better shape than it actually was. I did replace the rear trailing arm bushings and subframe mounts, as well as shock absorbers on all four corners. I also freshened up the steering (tie rods, drag link, steering damper, idler arm bushings).

I finally got the car off the ground and checked it out yesterday. I'm pretty sure I need ball joints and most likely lower and upper control arm bushings. Is there anything else I should look at?

I'm also planning on replacing the motor mounts while I'm in there.

Guide rod mounts and attachment bushings at the lower control arms. Spring pads. I think there's a choice of 4 thicknesses. Count the nubs on the ones you have then decide if that's good or if you want thinner (fewer nubs) or thicker pads.

Sixto
98 E320s sedan and wagon

torsion bar bushings.

one located under the battery, and one under the brake booster.

I put this off until the whole front end was done. its easy, but a pain to remove the master cylinder and booster then to bleed brakes.

with all parts on hand shouldn't take more than couple hours.

most of the time will be spent trying to squeeze the new bushings in.

What kind of tire wear are you getting?

Sway bar bushings on my SDs were all like new. Buy1 each of the bolts that hold the upper and lower control arms to the body. I had to cut an upper and lower when refurbishing the suspension on 2 SDs and would have saved time by getting the sawzall out earlier.

Buy some threaded rod and use washers to install the bushings in the LCA. Fine thread works better than coarse thread. FSM has directions on removing the bushings from the LCA.

I forgot how I removed the guide rod from the carrier but it was easy once I decided to use brute force. It may have been a nut with washer on the threaded part pushing against a plywood scrap bolted to the housing. I gave my 12 ton press away years ago because it was in the way.

I'll take a look at them, but I'll avoid doing the sway bar bushings if at all possible. I don't relish the idea of removing the booster and having to refit it.


None that I notice. I had the car aligned as soon as I got it on the road.

Good info. Thankfully, I still have my press, although I haven't used it in a few years. I used threaded rod and miscellaneous bits when I replaced my rear trailing arm bushings and rear subframe mounts, so I'm familiar with how to do that.

Hmmm.... A quick glance suggests that nobody is carrying the front spring pads. Any advice on where to get those?

I think this is the thread you're looking for:
http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/mercedes-parts-reference-library/216147-w123-front-steering-suspension-rebuild-list.html

I purchased rear spring pads from the dealer just a few months ago I would think the fronts would be available.

Finally got around to starting work on the front suspension. I have a possibly dumb question - when installing the new front lower ball joint (old one is not yet removed), does one lubricate it with grease or perhaps anti-seize where the ball joint meets the steering knuckle, or is this a bad/dangerous idea?

Peach gets better prices on OE parts than my local dealer. I use them unless a short search shows something better. It is easy to put too much time into sourcing parts given the effort required vs dollar savings.

Lubrication is not needed if the correct press is used. If you use some jury-rigged press arrangement, it's anyones guess what it is going to take to make things work.

Just finished my front end rebuild. I replaced shocks with Bilstein HDs (rear too), guide rod mounts,upper and lower control arm bushings, upper and lower ball joints, steering shock, drag link, tie rods, steering coupler, and idler arm bushing.

Had a shop do the pressing work, I did the R&R. Not difficult, just make sure everything comes out and goes in, in order.

Now my torsion bar bushings are making all kinds of noise. I wish I'd have thought of them before doing everything else. Ugh.

For just the noise... look for Muratic acid...
this was available in a gallon container with just some at the bottom.. to which you add water to get the proper %.
Standard rubber lubricant ....
Ru-glyde

https://www.napaonline.com/en/p/BK_7651338

Be sure to grease the threads of the spring compressor each time you use it. Grease will make compressing the spring much easier and keep the compressor in good working order. Get the sawzall out if the bolts give a problem coming out. Don't waste time trying to save the bolts if stuck. Use anti-sieze on reinstallation.

Well, I purchased most parts months ago, so it's a moot point.

Good to know. Thanks.

When you say guide rod mounts, are you talking about where they meet the control arm, or where the guide rods bolt up to the body?

I was going to replace both, but the part where it meets the body still seems solid, and as the new guide rod to body mounts aren't identical to the old ones, I'm not sure I can properly match the lengths.


Good to know on the grease. I did have to sawzall out the bolt on the upper control arm on the one side I've done so far. Actually, I only nicked the bolt with the sawzall, and that was enough to finally break the corrosion and let me knock the bolt out. I have new bolts and anti-seize for reinstallation.




I made some progress today, but not as much as I would have liked. I couldn't pop the ball joint out of the control arm, so I actually sliced through the shank of the ball joint with my grinder. Then I ran to Harbor Freight for a small sledgehammer, among other things. I was able to prop up the remainder of the control arm and drive the remainder of the ball joint shank out with my new BFH.

Then, I propped up the steering knuckle and used the BFH along with an impact socket to drive the ball joint out of the knuckle. Then I went out to get a rental ball joint press from Autozone, and couldn't figure out exactly how to use it. I found some photos online that gave me some ideas, so I should be back to it next weekend.