Hello, all

I know I saw a post about this sometime in the past from someone else, but I can't find it with the search function.

Basically, I'm trying to compile a list of parts needed for a front end rebuild. I got my 240D on the road two years ago this month, and since that time, there's been a bit of uneasiness, vagueness of feel, and a slight clunk in the front end. A few weeks back, it suddenly got a lot worse to the point that I didn't feel safe driving it, so I parked it in the garage.

A little background - the car was a three year project, from early 2012 through late 2015. I did almost everything on the car. Suspension-wise, I mostly ignored the front end, thinking it was in better shape than it actually was. I did replace the rear trailing arm bushings and subframe mounts, as well as shock absorbers on all four corners. I also freshened up the steering (tie rods, drag link, steering damper, idler arm bushings).

I finally got the car off the ground and checked it out yesterday. I'm pretty sure I need ball joints and most likely lower and upper control arm bushings. Is there anything else I should look at?

I'm also planning on replacing the motor mounts while I'm in there.

Guide rod mounts and attachment bushings at the lower control arms. Spring pads. I think there's a choice of 4 thicknesses. Count the nubs on the ones you have then decide if that's good or if you want thinner (fewer nubs) or thicker pads.

Sixto
98 E320s sedan and wagon

Hmmm.... A quick glance suggests that nobody is carrying the front spring pads. Any advice on where to get those?

torsion bar bushings.

one located under the battery, and one under the brake booster.

I put this off until the whole front end was done. its easy, but a pain to remove the master cylinder and booster then to bleed brakes.

with all parts on hand shouldn't take more than couple hours.

most of the time will be spent trying to squeeze the new bushings in.

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1983 300CD Turbodiesel

What kind of tire wear are you getting?

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It is a truism that almost any sect, cult, or religion will legislate its creed into law if it acquires the political power to do so. Robert A. Heinlein


09 Jetta TDI
1985 300D

One should consult the pictures in the Chassis Manual .... as the scuffing which would not be correct on other cars may be considered correct on our MB's...
Everything goes back to the Factory Shop manuals....

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1980 240d ,

chain elongation, cam marks reference:
http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/diesel-discussion/10414-help-i-need-check-stretch.html

http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/diesel-discussion/305365-9-degrees-chain-stretch.html

evap fin cleaning:

http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/diesel-discussion/156207-photo-step-step-post-showing-w123-evaporator-removal-1983-240d-1982-300td.html?highlight=evaporator

A/C thread

http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/diesel-discussion/297462-c-recommendations-mb-vehicles.html

Sway bar bushings on my SDs were all like new. Buy1 each of the bolts that hold the upper and lower control arms to the body. I had to cut an upper and lower when refurbishing the suspension on 2 SDs and would have saved time by getting the sawzall out earlier.

Buy some threaded rod and use washers to install the bushings in the LCA. Fine thread works better than coarse thread. FSM has directions on removing the bushings from the LCA.

I forgot how I removed the guide rod from the carrier but it was easy once I decided to use brute force. It may have been a nut with washer on the threaded part pushing against a plywood scrap bolted to the housing. I gave my 12 ton press away years ago because it was in the way.

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85SD 240K & stopped counting painted, putting bac together. 84SD 180,000. sold to a neighbor and member here but I forget his handle. The 84 is much improved from when I had it. 85TD beginning to repair to DD status. Lots of stuff to do.

I'll take a look at them, but I'll avoid doing the sway bar bushings if at all possible. I don't relish the idea of removing the booster and having to refit it.


None that I notice. I had the car aligned as soon as I got it on the road.

Good info. Thankfully, I still have my press, although I haven't used it in a few years. I used threaded rod and miscellaneous bits when I replaced my rear trailing arm bushings and rear subframe mounts, so I'm familiar with how to do that.

Is there a MB part number for these bolts? Or can I source the bolts from Home Depot, Lowes or Ace Hardware?

Also, where can I source torsion bar bushings? I don't see them listed here on peach parts.

Perhaps you mean "sway bar" (more properly "anti-sway"), since it does work by twisting the rod. I bought 2 pairs recently for my W123's, just to have on hand next time I am in that deep (battery tray and/or brake booster off). I bought cheap on efay, but P-P must list.

Re "torsion bar", my 1960's Mopars have them (instead of coil springs). Porsche used them, as do some recent U.S. trucks. Advantages are they keep suspension weight down low and you can adjust ride height by turning a bolt.

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1984 & 1985 CA 300D's
1964 & 65 Mopar's - Valiant, Dart, Newport
1996 & 2002 Chrysler minivans

Taking a quick afternoon break. Lower ball joint on the passenger side is now pressed in with the Autozone press, my electric impact gun, and a homemade adapter to go between the Autozone press and the ball joint flange. Now to replace the lower control arm bushings and guide rod to control arm mount, and then I can start reassembling the passenger side. I should have at least that much done this weekend.

Pelican has them here in the store. It'll be called the eccentric bolt repair kit, I believe.

I think this is the thread you're looking for:
W123 Front steering suspension rebuild list

I purchased rear spring pads from the dealer just a few months ago I would think the fronts would be available.

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Old Blue - '83 240D 6 speed manual trans, OM648
Green Machine - 2001 Europa G500
'87 300SDL Bought on Peachparts
'02 E320 4matic wagon

Patchouli Wagon - 2004 E500 - SOLD
333k mile 97 BMW 750il V12. - SOLD
The Californian - 85 300TD - SOLD
Daily Super Sedan - 03 Audi S8 - SOLD
Family Truckster - 2012 VW Touareg TDI - SOLD

Finally got around to starting work on the front suspension. I have a possibly dumb question - when installing the new front lower ball joint (old one is not yet removed), does one lubricate it with grease or perhaps anti-seize where the ball joint meets the steering knuckle, or is this a bad/dangerous idea?