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  #1  
Old 12-13-2017, 05:23 AM
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ALDA screws seized in place.

I am pretty good at removing screws and bolts when stubborn, but this is crazy.

I have used heat, impact drivers and felt like I was going to break my wrist twisting a screw-driver with both hands at once, trying to get the Phillips-head screws out of the ALDA. I'm not sure what the housing is made of but I assume the screws have seized up badly, although there is no obvious sign of corrosion on the surface.

I'm trying to get into it to replace the seal with a 10x2.5mm o-ring because it won't hold pressure at all. It will hold vacuum however. I want to put one back in place to see how it runs (even when it runs wonderfully without one!).

Anyone dealt with the screws being absolutely seized up on it before? My other (bad) ALDA had allen screws in it and came apart easily. I'm nervous about drilling them out but may do that last.

Anyone have a used ALDA for cheap?
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  #2  
Old 12-13-2017, 06:41 AM
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Trevor Hadlington
 
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Location: Worcestershire in England
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Just what is this ALDA you talk about and for what car /Fill in your profile for others to be able to help you.
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  #3  
Old 12-13-2017, 10:09 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 300 Super D View Post
Anyone have a used ALDA for cheap?
I've got two that are already taken apart.
Send me a PM.
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  #4  
Old 12-13-2017, 10:43 AM
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PB blaster and freeze off
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  #5  
Old 12-13-2017, 01:21 PM
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Originally Posted by jake12tech View Post
PB blaster and freeze off
Ever try to open an Alda? I have one on my bench that defies all tools, oils and black magic remedies.
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  #6  
Old 12-13-2017, 01:30 PM
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The screws can be SERIOUSLY stuck. They are countersink heads and the machining of the aluminum body is VERY accurately made. Coupled with corrosion of the threads and mating faces over the years, and they get VERY stuck.

What worked for me was setting the corner of the ALDA on my bench vice, using a #3 Phillips screwdriver, and give it a good, solid whack with a hammer. Soak overnight with 50/50 Acetone/ATF mix. Come back in the morning, give it another hard whack, then it should break loose. I clamped my ALDA in the vice to make life much, much easier.

The key is to keep FIRM downward pressure on the screw, use the CORRECT screwdriver, and give it a firm, sharp twist to break torque. I got both of my ALDAs apart, neither one of them had any sort of threadlocker, but both had aluminum corrosion in the screw threads.
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  #7  
Old 12-13-2017, 06:15 PM
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Heat with a propane torch, apply wax (crayon works great!) Let it cool and repeat. Try to tighten slightly and then loosen. Once it moves slightly, if you feel the slightest bit of roughness, reheat and apply wax.

There are YouTube videos of this working as well. I've used this method and haven't had an issue of damaged threads. Patience is a virtue. Don't force it and repeat the procedure over and over until it unscrews smoothly.

Buy the kid a new box of crayons!
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  #8  
Old 12-26-2017, 05:57 PM
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Nothing worked. I used a torch again, let them sit with PB Blaster soaking for days. I used a better screwdriver with a great grip and that fits the screw perfectly. I really laid into it but finally the metal of the screw itself started to deform.

I now question if its really worth it. I assume that most ALDAs these days leak a little air. The air volume the turbine produces far outweighs what my little air pump can do so it may actually be a negligible amount of pressure loss, if its even detectable. I will hook it all back up and watch my boost gauge. More importantly I'll see if my power is still satisfying.
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  #9  
Old 12-26-2017, 06:37 PM
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Run it without the Alda. My car is getting better fuel economy and not even smoking. I don't have a heavy foot so I have no problem with smoke or low mpg.
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  #10  
Old 12-26-2017, 09:13 PM
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OP, why did you remove your ALDA? Was it functioning fine when removed? If so, I'd slap it back on there and move on.

If not functioning and you must have one, if a good used model isn't an option or is ridiculously expensive, you're at the point where you might be better off drilling out the screws and rethreading. Nothing to lose now.

I've been driving around for the last few weeks without mine. It won't be going back on. Zero extra smoke in normal driving, even when driving "spiritedly" (in quotes as there's not much spirited driving in 125hp dragging around a 3500lb truck with the aerodynamics of a garden shed......). I have to intentionally drive in a manner that will make smoke, and I just don't do that. Zero interest in rolling coal. If your situation is similar, I'd just leave it off.

Lastly, if you get in a jam and have to have an ALDA, shoot me a PM. I have a couple and I (ahem) won't be using them.
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  #11  
Old 12-27-2017, 12:17 AM
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I just dont want to get into drilling it for now. Im kind of out of energy dealing with this thing that I may not bother putting back on.

If you saw my other ALDA post you'd see the issues I was having, which was a MASSIVE problem for 2 years. Anyway, I would and may leave it off but as someone said, how do we know what longer term issues it may cause with carbon build up and EGT temps, etc?

You know for sure you better MPG? How, in theory, is that possible?
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  #12  
Old 12-27-2017, 09:34 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 300 Super D View Post
I just dont want to get into drilling it for now. Im kind of out of energy dealing with this thing that I may not bother putting back on.

If you saw my other ALDA post you'd see the issues I was having, which was a MASSIVE problem for 2 years. Anyway, I would and may leave it off but as someone said, how do we know what longer term issues it may cause with carbon build up and EGT temps, etc?
You know for sure you better MPG? How, in theory, is that possible?
That alda is strictly an emissions device for smoke. it has nothing to do with carbon buildup and egt . The EGR cools combustion temperatures so they say. It barely makes a difference now that I've bypassed the egr. The temperatures are barely different and I have zero worries of a melted piston lol. This is a 150hp car, not a 400hp 8k rpm revving v8.

I'm not sure how to explain the better fuel economy. I do the same driving I did filling at the same station and have a 1.5 better mpg.
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2008 Chevy 3500HD Duramax 340k
2004 Chevy 2500HD Duramax 220k
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  #13  
Old 12-27-2017, 08:08 AM
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I have a manual impact that might work. I bought it st Sears long ago. It hold 1/2 or 3/8" sockets. I put whatever fits the fastener on,and smack it with a hammer. The head of the tool twists slightly when hit. I have no,idea whet,they are still sold.
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  #14  
Old 12-27-2017, 09:16 AM
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I have one of those as well and spent a lot of time hitting it with my hammer. No effect.
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  #15  
Old 12-27-2017, 11:13 AM
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Did you cap your outlet or just gut the ALDA and replace the housing?
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