OM606 to OM603 injection pump help
 

I have an OM606.912 NA. I have a mechanical pump from a 3.0 603 I want to install. I have the engine on a stand with the pump removed, I just need the steps for timing the new pump when it goes in. I've read a bunch on this and just want to be completely prepared for installation. Nothing beats knowledge from some one who has done it first hand. Thank you!

Hello and welcome to the forum Cody! Take a look at the links below, one of which is an earlier thread where this is discussed. The other one seems to also go over the timing process. I'm sure other members will also chime in with their experience. Hope this helps you a bit and please let us know if you have any other questions.

http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/diesel-performance-tuning/254208-standard-injection-pump-om603-om606.html

OM603 or om606 Injection timing with timing light adapter

Thanks for sharing them links, I'll browse them over and go from there.

Was the engine confirmed to be at 15* ATDC #1 when you removed the 606 IP? That’s where it should be and there’s work to do if it’s not.

Is the sprocket still indexed to the chain?

Do you have an IP locking tool?

Sixto
98 E320s sedan and wagon

I did not have engine at 15* atdc on #1 when removed. When i pulled pump out i made sure not to disrupt the sprocket or shaft on the pump in case i had to reinstall for reasons like this. I have seen locking tool and plan on improvising with a wooden dowel that I'll put a slit in. What is the procedure i should do now knowing i have removed pump in a random spot but did not disrupt sprocket or pump shaft?

Put the IP back in the correct time. it's definitely out of time now. There's an adjustment screw on the 603 IP. Turn that screw til the little tang is dead center. Then lock the IP.

There's a 17mm bolt on the side of the IP that hides the little tang I'm referencing in case you don't know. it's a little access window.

Put back the 606 pump (timing doesn’t matter), turn the engine to 15* ATDC #1 confirmed by cam lobes, remove 606 pump, confirm 603 pump RIV tang is centered in the port, install 603 pump.

I say 15* as a reference. 14* or 13* might suit you better.

Install the 603 pump with the bolt slots centered on the block bolt holes so there’s range to adjust either way.

You don’t need a dowel if you don’t have the locking tool as long as you can visually confirm the RIV tang is centered in the port. It sounds like your engine is out of the car so this is easy.

To be safe, turn the IP shaft only CW as viewed from the front. If you can’t do it by hand, wrap a towel around the IP shaft and use big pliers to turn the shaft.

Sixto
98 E320s sedan and wagon

Ok thank you! I will report back when i get a warm day to mess with it.

Get a new seal ring (a really big O-ring) for the IP (goes between IP collar and the hole in the engine that accepts the IP). This is "A Good Idea" so you don't have to remove the IP again in order to replace that seal after you start the engine and find out the seal is bad. Clean out the channel and collar well and lubricate the seal with engine oil.

Thanks for the input, i checked out o ring upon removal and it looked good no cracks and didnt feel dried out. I'll be sure to clean all mating surfaces and lube oring during reinstall

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Ok so this injection pump is the om603 pump i have. The components to it are still foreign to me. I labeled 1-7 on the first pic. Can someone give me a brief description of what each component does along with what i will need hooked up or blocked off in order to bench run the engine. Also in pic 2 you will see the delievery valves. One of them looks like someone hit it with a chisel or was dropped during being shipped to me. Leaning towards a human that did it with a tool. I threaded an injector line on and it caught threads and seated, yet to put it under pressure most likely going to leak. Next question is can i rob a delievery valve off my 606 electronic pump in place of the screwed up one? The 603 pump delievery valve has two markings on it. 500 and 1.16, and my 606 delievery valve has one marking on it that reads .024. Thanks for the support

1) control rod sensor - I think it only serves EGR and ARV.

2) ALDA set screw - don’t touch it until the engine is running properly in its new home.

3) ALDA boost signal nipple - connects to the intake manifold through an overboost protection solenoid. The turbo won’t generate boost with no load on the engine so don’t worry about it off the car.

4) ELR actuator - takes a signal from EDS to regulate idle speed. The engine will idle poorly if at all without EDS but you can raise base idle or keep tension on the throttle linkage to keep the engine running. Come to think of it, don’t messs with base idle until you’re familiar with the engine.

5) VCV input and output - the VCV converts throttle position to a vacuum signal to modulate shift quality. More vacuum for softer shifts under light load, less vacuum for stiffer shifts under heavy load. I’m not describing that properly but the net is shifts feel the same regardless of load.

6) VCV vent - connects to an open ended hose in the passenger cabin.

7) Engine shutoff actuator nipple - apply vacuum to stop the engine. Mechanically linked to the stop lever.

You don’t need anything hooked up or blocked off to run the engine out of the car. You might need to help it idle without EDS.

I don’t know if a 606.912 delivery valve is interchangeable with a 603.96x. I would guess not. IIRC the 603.96x has 5.5 mm (or mm^2?) elements, the 606.96x has 6mm elements. I don’t know what the 606.912 has. The threads are not part of the seal. The seal is formed by the ball ended line and the cupped holder. Injector lines aren’t tightened very hard. Maybe chase the threads so the injector line threads cleanly. Read up on the delivery valve holder tightening procedure before you mess with it.

Sixto
98 E320s sedan and wagon

The control rod position sensor (1) is also used by EDS for idle control.

Awesome just what i needed to know. The 606.912 has 5.5 elements i believe. As for delievery valve the line threaded right on without chasing it and torqued down felt good so i might be alright. Going to throw the pump in within a couple days. I made my pressure tester and dismantled the injectors and gave everything a good cleaning. Soaked all components in diesel when i reassembled, going to test their patterns/pressures they go off at and see if they are weeping before popping. Happen to know their torque spec? Along with delievery valve spec too?

Here’s delivery valve seal info - http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/diesel-discussion/89227-603-injection-pump-leaking.html

Here’s general IP replacement info - PeachPartsWiki: Injection Pump Removal

Sixto
98 E320s sedan and wagon

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I got the pump in today, it went pretty smooth. I threw the old pump back in got engine to 15° ATDC, removed it and got the tang lined up dead center on the new pump. It wouldn't stay so i took a bolt that fit snug in the hole and cut a slit dead center across it. How far should the shaft of the pump mesh into the splines on the sprocket? I felt it mesh and push in a bit but from the front side of the sprocket there is still at least 1/2" of splines showing. Just wanted to get a second opinion on that. Also i need help understanding the the routing and function of these fuel lines. Feed/ return etc...will i be able to make this work with the 606 filter housing? I looked at some diagrams but still cant find exactly how to route these lines to the 603 pump.

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Ok so i got everything hooked up and started to get the system primed. I am getting fuel to the filter housing, fuel to the banjo on the pump, fuel back out of return line but no fuel out of the delievery valves. I did many 20 sec cranking sessions with good cooldown intervals. I tried putting pressure to my fuel jug, vacuum to return line and even bypassing the filter and going right from the fuel pump to the banjo on the pump. I tried WOT while cranking. Just can't seem to get fuel out of delievery valves.

I don’t know the 606 fuel supply system, only the simpler 603 system.

Are you cranking with the injector lines loose to facilitate purging air?

If you apply vacuum to the shutoff actuator, does the stop lever go down? If so wire the stop lever as far vertically as possible. If not, further discussion warranted around a possibility that the stop mechanism is jammed.

Crank for a few seconds with the return line pinched. Does that help?

Be ready to cut fuel supply to the IP quickly. The darn thing might catch and run wide open if there’s something wrong with the IP.

Sixto
98 E320s sedan and wagon

I am cranking with injector lines loose, the stop level goes down with vacuum applied. I did crank with return line pinched, nothing.

What I don’t see in your picture is how the return line from the IP is routed to the filter block. There’s a special banjo bolt just ahead of the throttle bell crank of the IP. The hollow bolt had a spring loaded ball as a pressure relief valve. Pinching the return line should have tested this but maybe something’s not hooked up properly. Or the 606 has a fuel cutting device I don’t see. So...

This is easy for me to suggest from as far away as I am and all I have invested in your project but the next thing I’d do is bypass the big filter; that is, route fuel directly from the lift pump to the IP. Run a hose from the top fitting of the lift pump to the forward most fuel fitting of the IP.

Sixto
98 E320s sedan and wagon

I tried that i went from lift pump to the banjo on ip completely bipassing filter. As for return i went from the banjo on the other side of pump right next to throttle lever up to filter housing right next to where injector return hooks into. While cranking return spews a constant stream of fuel. It appears fuel is going in and returning but not going to the delievery valves

Do you have a standard banjo bolt on the return line AT THE IP, or do you have the special orifice "overflow" valve installed? If you have a standard banjo fitting, that's your issue, you'll never build any pressure in the IP's fuel rack. The correct orifice valve looks like a banjo bolt, but has a very small drilled orifice on the side instead of the normal hole. It also looks like it has a ball bearing pressed into its head.

Yes the head of the bolt has what you described. A ball pressed into the head

I just swapped out the fuel lines for some clear line. The feed to The filter housing, the feed out of filter housing into the inj pump and the return out of inj pump all flow while cranking without any air bubbles what so ever.

What's the history of the injection pump you're using? Is it a known-good pump? If the fuel rack is full and the orifice is installed to build pressure, the pumping elements should be doing their thing.

If the IP sat for a long time, or it was from a WVO vehicle, the internal parts of the fuel rack could be gummed up or seized.

I got the pump off ebay, only description that was given is that the pump came off an om603 and was removed from a "perfectly running engine". I looked over all screws on the access covers and i can see marks on the flatheads where the covers were torqued on but no marks indicating anybody removed any of the covers. So far i do not see any leaks from anywhere on any of the pumps seals/gaskets. Also i did not smell or see any traces of wvo.

Solved the issue. I took the little shutoff actuator canister off and had a peak in there. I cycled the stop arm and quickly seen that the piece that the shutoff arm makes contact with that moves foward and back was hung up in the stop position. I took a flathead and cycled it foward and back a couple times and tapped the starter with it in the foward position. Shot fuel from delievery valves 8 ft high.

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So after i solved the no fuel issue i called it a night. I came out today and started to bleed out air at the injectors and got it to run but noticed #2 wasnt getting fuel. I pulled the delievery valve out along with all the workings to it. I orientated all pieces EXACTLY how they came out. I cleaned everything and threw back together. Still wasnt shooting fuel out. I decided to pop side cover off just to take a peak. The arm circled in pic was not in its track. It was next to it so i popped it back in. Cranked again still no fuel so i decided to switch components from delievery valve 1 to narrow down which was the issue. First i switched the pieces i have labeled 1-5 from #1 into #2, and put #2 components back into #1. Nothing. I then switched the one i have labeled 6. The issue moved to #1 once i did that and #2 was now getting fuel. What is failing on the piece i have labeled 6?
Fuel is bypassing right thru the dead delievery valve and supplying the rest. And even on the dead one when i unscrew it after priming system it's full of fuel like other good ones. Losing my mind!

Some light reading:

http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/diesel-discussion/368432-delivery-valve-o-ring-problem%3B-car-clacking-loud.html

5,5 & 7mm element, difference here (filmclip)

Sixto
98 E320s sedan and wagon

I know i didn't damage anything because the problem follows which ever delievery valve i put the component labled #6 into

How much have I forgotten? - http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/diesel-discussion/317678-replaced-delivery-valve-seals-w124-300d-2.html

Maybe the internal passages of the element are blocked or deformed.

Sixto
98 E320s sedan and wagon

Do you know anything about the markings on the plunger barrel(#6) from the pic? Given i only have two delivery valves out right now the good one has a 645 marking on it and the bad one has 646 on it. Gonna take a third out tomorrow and see what that one says.

Wow, I'm afraid that you never should have removed the part you call #6, as you have probably taken the injection pump out of calibration. However, if it was already not working and maybe never going to work, then perhaps it doesn't really matter.

This was the impression I was under as well. If the IP was already junk, oh well, but if it was a good one, it may not be now...

I believe if you align the red encircled #2 lever a little to the left, you should get the proper fueling at idle to make the engine run smoothly at idle, if the pump was inserted correctly and is timed correctly. Also, insert the barrel into the pump with the slot in the barrel facing like it is in your picture (facing directly at you). There is a pin there that is not easily visible that will keep the barrel from rotating or otherwise moving. If the barrel is not inserted in its proper position it can cause problems to include not allowing delivery of fuel or even a run away engine. #1 looks like it could be moved up a little as well. #3 looks good. I used those lines on the pump directly above the red circle to set all of my levers.

If the part i labeled #6 that's being deemed taboo to remove is put right back in lined up with its pin then how is calibration disrupted. I was under the assumption that calibration is set by removing the side cover and cracking the torx screws loose allowing you to adjust orientation of each element individually. If that's the case i would assume the way they calibrate is bench test the pump and measure flow rate from each delievery valve and adjust each one left or right on the track to get fuel rates the same from all 6 delievery valves. Correct me if I'm wrong.

Removing the barrel will not change calibration, if it was set correctly in the first place and then put back in the same position with the slot locked by the pin. The information I gave was from my experience. If you follow those instructions, your pump should pump the fuel in an adequate amount to smooth idle on #2. Once on the road, that #2 lever would move forward enough to supply fuel to the engine. At idle currently, the supply is inadequate because the lever is closer to the shut off point than it is to the supplying fuel point. Now it is possible that the 87 (300 models) year pump and the 94 year (S350 models) pump barrels could cause problems if interchanged. However, most people never get to that point in their experimentation and discovery with these pumps to start changing and swapping internals of the pump. As to how the pumps are calibrated on the bench, you are probably correct as I think that is how it is done, as well. I don't have a bench tester.

Thanks, i'm going to mess with it some more and report back. Im only a week into ever messing with this specific pump.

Thought I would try to save you a few years of frustration.

You may be good, you've gone much further into the injection pump than I ever have. I wish you well in getting this back together and running.

My biggest concern is why did that plunger get out of alignment to begin with?

Have you been replacing the copper crush washer in each delivery valve, when you put them back together? A new copper washer is critical to a smooth idle. I realize that the first goal is to get fuel flow from all delivery valves, but after that you'll need to address this. In other applications, I've successfully re-used copper washers by heating them up to a nice orange glow with a torch and then letting them cool off. Clean off all the carbon really well before use. The heat / cool cycle will re-soften all the work hardened parts and allow the washer to make a fresh and good seal. This assumes there are no major scratches or other defects on either face of the washer. I've never tried this method with delivery valves, but in a trouble-shooting process it may save some time and $.

I got it running today! The delivery valve with the troublesome barrel started to work today. Runs good needs some new orings on the delievery valves that i disrupted. Just for future reference how does one go about timing the pump sprocket to the cam sprockets? I had the pump back out again and when i threw it back in i questioned myself on whether the sproket jumped a tooth or not muscling everything together. And what would consequences be if it had jumped a tooth? Thanks

Base timing is set by turning the crank to 15* ATDC #1 and using the turnbuckle to center the RIV tang in the port. Loosen the the bolts in front and one bolt in the back so the IP shifts as you turn the turnbuckle. Alternatively, lock the IP tang then install the IP with the crank at 15* ATDC #1.

Sixto
98 E320s sedan and wagon

Wow total brainfart i knew all that from when you told me the other day somehow in the moment i was thinking about what if the sprocket had come off the chain and i didnt put it back on right but i realized after i posted that its orientation doesnt matter only the 15adtc and tang dead center. Brain fart don't judge! Thanks Sixto for all your help.