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Old 01-12-2018, 07:04 PM
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OM606 to OM603 injection pump help

I have an OM606.912 NA. I have a mechanical pump from a 3.0 603 I want to install. I have the engine on a stand with the pump removed, I just need the steps for timing the new pump when it goes in. I've read a bunch on this and just want to be completely prepared for installation. Nothing beats knowledge from some one who has done it first hand. Thank you!
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Old 01-12-2018, 08:11 PM
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Hello and welcome to the forum Cody! Take a look at the links below, one of which is an earlier thread where this is discussed. The other one seems to also go over the timing process. I'm sure other members will also chime in with their experience. Hope this helps you a bit and please let us know if you have any other questions.

standard injection pump om603 to om606

OM603 or om606 Injection timing with timing light adapter
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Old 01-12-2018, 08:53 PM
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Thanks for sharing them links, I'll browse them over and go from there.
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Old 01-12-2018, 09:41 PM
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Was the engine confirmed to be at 15* ATDC #1 when you removed the 606 IP? That’s where it should be and there’s work to do if it’s not.

Is the sprocket still indexed to the chain?

Do you have an IP locking tool?

Sixto
98 E320s sedan and wagon
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Old 01-14-2018, 02:47 PM
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I did not have engine at 15* atdc on #1 when removed. When i pulled pump out i made sure not to disrupt the sprocket or shaft on the pump in case i had to reinstall for reasons like this. I have seen locking tool and plan on improvising with a wooden dowel that I'll put a slit in. What is the procedure i should do now knowing i have removed pump in a random spot but did not disrupt sprocket or pump shaft?
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Old 01-14-2018, 03:05 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Cody View Post
I did not have engine at 15* atdc on #1 when removed. When i pulled pump out i made sure not to disrupt the sprocket or shaft on the pump in case i had to reinstall for reasons like this. I have seen locking tool and plan on improvising with a wooden dowel that I'll put a slit in. What is the procedure i should do now knowing i have removed pump in a random spot but did not disrupt sprocket or pump shaft?
Put the IP back in the correct time. it's definitely out of time now. There's an adjustment screw on the 603 IP. Turn that screw til the little tang is dead center. Then lock the IP.

There's a 17mm bolt on the side of the IP that hides the little tang I'm referencing in case you don't know. it's a little access window.
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OM606 to OM603 injection pump help-rvmqnzw-1.jpg  
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Old 01-14-2018, 03:08 PM
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Put back the 606 pump (timing doesn’t matter), turn the engine to 15* ATDC #1 confirmed by cam lobes, remove 606 pump, confirm 603 pump RIV tang is centered in the port, install 603 pump.

I say 15* as a reference. 14* or 13* might suit you better.

Install the 603 pump with the bolt slots centered on the block bolt holes so there’s range to adjust either way.

You don’t need a dowel if you don’t have the locking tool as long as you can visually confirm the RIV tang is centered in the port. It sounds like your engine is out of the car so this is easy.

To be safe, turn the IP shaft only CW as viewed from the front. If you can’t do it by hand, wrap a towel around the IP shaft and use big pliers to turn the shaft.

Sixto
98 E320s sedan and wagon
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Old 01-14-2018, 03:27 PM
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Ok thank you! I will report back when i get a warm day to mess with it.
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Old 01-14-2018, 03:28 PM
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Get a new seal ring (a really big O-ring) for the IP (goes between IP collar and the hole in the engine that accepts the IP). This is "A Good Idea" so you don't have to remove the IP again in order to replace that seal after you start the engine and find out the seal is bad. Clean out the channel and collar well and lubricate the seal with engine oil.
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Old 01-14-2018, 05:36 PM
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Thanks for the input, i checked out o ring upon removal and it looked good no cracks and didnt feel dried out. I'll be sure to clean all mating surfaces and lube oring during reinstall
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Old 01-16-2018, 09:45 PM
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[IMG]Screenshot_2018_01_16_20_34_02[/IMG]
[IMG]0116182027[/IMG]

Ok so this injection pump is the om603 pump i have. The components to it are still foreign to me. I labeled 1-7 on the first pic. Can someone give me a brief description of what each component does along with what i will need hooked up or blocked off in order to bench run the engine. Also in pic 2 you will see the delievery valves. One of them looks like someone hit it with a chisel or was dropped during being shipped to me. Leaning towards a human that did it with a tool. I threaded an injector line on and it caught threads and seated, yet to put it under pressure most likely going to leak. Next question is can i rob a delievery valve off my 606 electronic pump in place of the screwed up one? The 603 pump delievery valve has two markings on it. 500 and 1.16, and my 606 delievery valve has one marking on it that reads .024. Thanks for the support

Last edited by Cody; 01-16-2018 at 09:58 PM.
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Old Yesterday, 12:19 AM
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1) control rod sensor - I think it only serves EGR and ARV.

2) ALDA set screw - don’t touch it until the engine is running properly in its new home.

3) ALDA boost signal nipple - connects to the intake manifold through an overboost protection solenoid. The turbo won’t generate boost with no load on the engine so don’t worry about it off the car.

4) ELR actuator - takes a signal from EDS to regulate idle speed. The engine will idle poorly if at all without EDS but you can raise base idle or keep tension on the throttle linkage to keep the engine running. Come to think of it, don’t messs with base idle until you’re familiar with the engine.

5) VCV input and output - the VCV converts throttle position to a vacuum signal to modulate shift quality. More vacuum for softer shifts under light load, less vacuum for stiffer shifts under heavy load. I’m not describing that properly but the net is shifts feel the same regardless of load.

6) VCV vent - connects to an open ended hose in the passenger cabin.

7) Engine shutoff actuator nipple - apply vacuum to stop the engine. Mechanically linked to the stop lever.

You don’t need anything hooked up or blocked off to run the engine out of the car. You might need to help it idle without EDS.

I don’t know if a 606.912 delivery valve is interchangeable with a 603.96x. I would guess not. IIRC the 603.96x has 5.5 mm (or mm^2?) elements, the 606.96x has 6mm elements. I don’t know what the 606.912 has. The threads are not part of the seal. The seal is formed by the ball ended line and the cupped holder. Injector lines aren’t tightened very hard. Maybe chase the threads so the injector line threads cleanly. Read up on the delivery valve holder tightening procedure before you mess with it.

Sixto
98 E320s sedan and wagon
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Old Yesterday, 08:59 AM
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The control rod position sensor (1) is also used by EDS for idle control.
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Old Yesterday, 12:01 PM
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Awesome just what i needed to know. The 606.912 has 5.5 elements i believe. As for delievery valve the line threaded right on without chasing it and torqued down felt good so i might be alright. Going to throw the pump in within a couple days. I made my pressure tester and dismantled the injectors and gave everything a good cleaning. Soaked all components in diesel when i reassembled, going to test their patterns/pressures they go off at and see if they are weeping before popping. Happen to know their torque spec? Along with delievery valve spec too?
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  #15  
Old Yesterday, 01:34 PM
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Here’s delivery valve seal info - 603 injection pump leaking

Here’s general IP replacement info - PeachPartsWiki: Injection Pump Removal

Sixto
98 E320s sedan and wagon
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