![]() |
|
|
|
|
#1
|
|||
|
|||
Diesel Newbie ?
I have a couple of questions re an old OM616.
I have an old 616 that I believe was transplanted into a 240G. The engine designation appears to be 616.934.-10-0362xx which I could not find source info on. What was the original application for this engine? So here are my challenges, This vehicle was parked about 10yrs without starting. I was in a very dry climate (AZ) and might have have Bio or some veggie as the fuel is very thick and smells a little like varnish? Anyway, diesel newbie got it running but very rough. I then changed the fuel filter (incorrectly) in think I introduced air. I then tried to bleed but the hand pump is dead.... So I would like to rebuild the fuel/lift pump (FP/KG22M101), replace the hand pump (Bosch or the Monarch), and clear the old fuel from the system. At some time after that I will base line all fluids and lines. Does this sound like a reasonable plan? What else should I consider doing? RE the lift pump, there is a lot of info but I haven't been able to find a rebuild kit. It looks like 2 valve and some O-rings and maybe a gasket (2 bolts) and crush washer, can this be sourced complete? Should I remove teh hard lines and make sure they are clear? TIA |
#2
|
||||
|
||||
I start by buying a new bleed pump. First I'd add biocide to the tank to kill any bacteria growing there and let it sit for a week, shaking the car around on its springs every day to be sure its mixing.
If you had it started before you should be able to start it again. Once its running with new filters it should clean itself out. Diesel only grows bacteria if infused with water. If no water it will keep for decades without degradation.
__________________
[SIGPIC] Diesel loving autocrossing grandpa Architect. 08 Dodge 3/4 ton with Cummins & six speed; I have had about 35 benzes. I have a 39 Studebaker Coupe Express pickup in which I have had installed a 617 turbo and a five speed manual. ![]() ..I also have a 427 Cobra replica with an aluminum chassis. |
#3
|
|||
|
|||
Thanks for the quick reply, The truck is about 1,200 miles from me so, I won't be back in the area until the end of March/early April. I thought because it looks like its best/easiest to replace the hand pump with the lift pump off I would look to eliminate any question about that part moving forward. I'll only have a few days to play with getting it running again.
Is either hand pump prefered and are they all the same thread pattern? Is your 7 done on as LoCost? |
#4
|
||||
|
||||
I believe they are all same thread.
I've never had to touch the lift pump on any of my benzes though others here have. The 7 is a CMC I think built by Del Long the most legendary autocross car builder in the country. There is a thread about it here called Lotus 7 D mod (I believe) by me if you want to read up on my adventures with it. ![]()
__________________
[SIGPIC] Diesel loving autocrossing grandpa Architect. 08 Dodge 3/4 ton with Cummins & six speed; I have had about 35 benzes. I have a 39 Studebaker Coupe Express pickup in which I have had installed a 617 turbo and a five speed manual. ![]() ..I also have a 427 Cobra replica with an aluminum chassis. |
#5
|
|||
|
|||
If the original white plastic hand-pump, they are hard to remove. They also leak air. On-vehicle, the fastest method is to smash the plastic body off to get at the hex nut. The new black pumps are much smaller and easier to get a wrench on.
Lift-pump rebuild is easy. I did so on my 1985 300D. The kits are fairly generic to any Bosch lift-pump. Search ebay (~$20). As I recall, you get the plastic check valves and crush washers. You could replace these parts on-vehicle if you have large & deep sockets for the inlet and outlet fittings. But, the actuation shaft slides in and out of an O-ring. If it fails, diesel can flow in to dilute your oil. You need an O-ring pick to remove it. It didn't come in the kit. I used a Viton one from my HF kit, but HBNR might also be good too since claimed more rugged than Nitrile. The roller is solid (no ball bearings), so nothing to change unless gall'ed. You also need the mounting gasket, which you can get from P-P here. I didn't have it and tried a round gasket I had lying around (son needed car). That left the mounting ears cantilevered and one later broke off. Oil leaks while the lift-pump is off, so have a pan ready. BTW, it looks like many Bosch lift-pumps would fit our injection pumps, but the inlet and outlet might bump into the K-frame or engine mount. They might work on engines fitted into rock-crawler trucks. I saw many on e-bay (even new) priced much less than the correct PN. But, the hard parts barely wear in these lift pumps, so the junkyard works. I pulled a spare just last week for $10.
__________________
1984 & 1985 CA 300D's 1964 & 65 Mopar's - Valiant, Dart, Newport 1996 & 2002 Chrysler minivans |
#6
|
|||
|
|||
The engine is probably the original for a 240GD. The 616.934 code I'm pretty sure was for G wagens (I know 617s had the .931 or .932 codes for that chassis)
So its probably a Euro import, and going by your lift pump code it has an M pump which matches that theory
__________________
1978 300D, 373,000km 617.912, 711.113 5 speed, 7.5mm superpump, HX30W turbo...many, many years in the making.... 1977 280> 300D - 500,000km+ (to be sold...) 1984 240TD>300TD 121,000 miles, *gone* 1977 250 parts car 1988 Toyota Corona 2.0D *gone* 1975 FJ45>HJ45 1981 200>240D (to be sold...) 1999 Hyundai Lantra 1.6 *gone* 1980s Lansing Bagnall FOER 5.2 Forklift (the Mk2 engine hoist) 2001 Holden Rodeo 4JB1T 2WD ![]() |
#7
|
|||
|
|||
Thanks for the replies,
I'll look further for the o-rings etc. I haven't found a kit for the Type M on ebay only the MW? it looks like I need 22mm o-rings, a 30mm crush washer and the gasket to the FI pump? From what I have found here on PP the parts look to be more targeted to the MW lift pump, I am not seeing anything other than the Bosch hand pump with a 16mm-22mm adapter, I would prefer not having an adapter but will only have one shot when traveling to Arizona again then it will be another couple of months. Am I better off just calling a Bosch service shop and hoping they would be helpful on such small items? |
![]() |
Bookmarks |
|
|