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tool question re: wheel bearing replacement
I had a really noisy drone from the front of my 300TD; it sounded like a squadron of WWII bombers on the highway, and it was getting worse. I narrowed it down to wheel bearings-I got the necessary parts and did the left side today, and the noise is gone. I’ll do the other side next weekend.
My question is about the drift punch used to tap out the old races. I had read that brass was the way to go, but the ones I got (eBay) might as well have been French fries-they were completely ineffective at moving the races and were quickly deformed. I was then advised by an old-timer at an auto parts store to get a set of “chrome” punches (but not “hardened”) which I found fairly cheap at Harbor Frieght. With those I was able to get the races out, although I damaged a couple of small spots in the hub and had to carefully touch up the burrs with a Dremel so the new race would seat correctly. Those chrome punches survived but also got somewhat mangled at the tip, and I wouldn’t use them again unless I could grind them back into shape. So..is there a brand, or type (specific material) of drift/punch that I can get that will work for more than one job? Or, is there a better tool for removing the races? (I was surprised to see that the W123 hubs don’t have the 2 little “cut-outs” that I’ve seen in other hubs, to give the punch a better “shot”-there’s really only a very narrow lip to tap on-leading me to suspect that there’s a better way (?). Of course, that “better way” isn’t going to be a realistic option if it’s a factory tool costing $400.-) Any suggestions welcomed-thanks! |
#2
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I typically use an appropriately sized socket installed backwards on a 1/2" extension bar. For the outer race, use the socket that fits best. For the inner, I use the largest size practical, fitting the edge of the socket on the lip of the race, then moving to the opposite side for the next blow.
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When cryptography is outlawed, bayl bhgynjf jvyy unir cevinpl. |
#3
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If you are rplacing the Bearings you can use steel punches because it does not matter if you damage the bearings.
When you install them is when you need the Brass Punch or even an aluminum one if their diameter is enough. However, you can even install the bearing races with Steel Punches but you need to be extremely careful. Note that removing and installing favors a heavy hammer that you don't have to move much. A Hammer that takes a lot of velocity to provide force also cause the punch to more easily skid off and go someplace you don't want it to go. I thought that Harbor Freight sold a brass punch that was about 1/2" in diameter. All punches need to be resurfaced eventually.
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84 300D, 82 Volvo 244Gl Diesel |
#4
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btw, part of my reply got mixed in w/your text |
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#6
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Doofus, sometimes bearings do get removed and reused. Like when you have an integrated brake drum or rotor that is damaged or worn beyond limits. In those cases, care must be taken not to damage the race when it is removed. But if you know in advance that the race is going in the trash can, which would probably be the most likely scenario, there is little point in using a brass punch to protect a part that is not intended to be reused.
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When cryptography is outlawed, bayl bhgynjf jvyy unir cevinpl. |
#7
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gotcha-my concern-and the reason for trying to use brass to take them out-was to avoid potentially damaging the hub if I was less-than-skillful. I didn’t expect the races to be so tight that the brass couldn’t budge them. And, as it turned out, I did do some damage with the steel punch- fortunately not terminal.
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#8
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You use a hardened flat face drift, not a punch .
You're supposed to hit it on each side 180 degrees opposite, the old race will come right out .
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-Nate 1982 240D 408,XXX miles Ignorance is the mother of suspicion and fear is the father I did then what I knew how to do ~ now that I know better I do better |
#9
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I’m pretty sure that is what I used..a “punch” with a flat end, not tapered, not pointed. If I’m misunderstanding, I’d need to see a picture of what you mean. Having said that, I like tangofox007’s socket idea, might try that when I do the other side. (Even though the noise is gone, I’m putting new rotors on in front anyway-if I wasn’t I might just leave the right side bearing alone for now, but for the relatively low cost of a bearing, I figure as long as it’s apart I might as well have new bearings on both sides).
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#10
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Prolly means the same thing these days .
A 'Drift' is specifically made for this job , knocking things loose that are friction fit . If the bearing race is easy to install or remove the hub is trash anyway . The socket idea is interesting, I don't have thin wall sockets that'd fit , it also tends to beat up the sockets quite a bit .
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-Nate 1982 240D 408,XXX miles Ignorance is the mother of suspicion and fear is the father I did then what I knew how to do ~ now that I know better I do better |
#11
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A thin wall socket is neither necessary nor desirable. (For the inner race, the socket does need a square shoulder.) On the inner race, the "offset" afforded by the socket/extension bar combination allows a more parallel application of force than a drift.
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When cryptography is outlawed, bayl bhgynjf jvyy unir cevinpl. |
#12
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I was thinking if the inverted socket would fit in the hub past the larger, inner bearing's race....
I too occasionally use this method to remove or install things but never thought of trying it to remove wheel bearing races .
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-Nate 1982 240D 408,XXX miles Ignorance is the mother of suspicion and fear is the father I did then what I knew how to do ~ now that I know better I do better |
#13
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The Fuel Injection Shop I worked for none of those. I bought a set but for installing Bronze or Brass type bushings. Not big enough for a Wheel Bearing race. If the Naval Ship Yard had any I never saw them with the exception of special tools for a specific job. However, we did not work on vehicles. Maybe they had them in the Tool Shop but I never saw any of the other Mechnics using them.
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84 300D, 82 Volvo 244Gl Diesel |
#14
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Go to Harbor freight and look up Pittsburgh SKU#04885 12 piece industrial punch and chisel set. It has 3 tapered punches with flat faces 2 Center punches and 1 pin punch as well as the chisels.
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84 300D, 82 Volvo 244Gl Diesel |
#15
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Quote:
punch [punch] n (plural punch·es)
When I looke up Drift:
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84 300D, 82 Volvo 244Gl Diesel |
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