Because it's a 617. Lets try this. 1)Make sure battery if fully charged.
2)Spray some starting fluid into the air filter.
3)Turn key and after the glow plug light goes out wait 5 seconds and then crank the engine over.
4)It should start and run long enough to get the compression up and run on its own as long as there's fuel.
5)Let us know if this works. A lot of people get their problem resolved but don't bother to complete the exercise and inform those following what worked. Don't be one of those guys.
Roddy

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Dieselworks, That's exactly what I've been doing including the fully charged battery and starting fluid. No start!

I'm leaning more and more to the starter. I wish I could test the amp draw without towing it somewhere though.

I WILL notify everyone whenever I get the problem resolved so that all can learn from my problem.

Maybe youtube a quick video clip of that starter in action. If it's strong enough to crank the engine over, I'd expect it to start if the engine were healthy. It doesn't take much, especially if the glow plugs are working. Roll through a compression hit or two, and a healthy engine should light off even with a weak starter or weak battery.

__________________
Current stable:
1995 E320 157K (Nancy)
1983 500SL 125K (SLoL)

Gone but not forgotten:
1986 300SDL (RIP)
1991 350SD
1991 560SEL
1990 560SEL
1986 500SEL Euro (Rusted to nothing at 47K!)

Gone and wanting to forget:
1985 524TD 167K (TotalDumpster™) [Definitely NOT a Benz]

Agree. My SD with 265,000 miles starts in about half a second. The only time it will not start like that is if it is cold outside and I have not started it for a week or two. My battery goes down a bit in a week or two if I do not run the car and I get a sluggish start in cold weather (say 30 F).

Subscribed .

__________________
-Nate
1982 240D 408,XXX miles
Ignorance is the mother of suspicion and fear is the father

I did then what I knew how to do ~ now that I know better I do better

While I'm at it... Are some starter motors better than others? If there is such thing as an upgrade, I might want to get that so I don't have to do the starter motor in the future.

I wouldn't mess with that starting fluid on the om617. In the olden days here, I recall some guys doing that and blowing up their engines!

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-Typos courtesy of my mobile phone.

Agreed, starting fluid through the air filter can kill the engine 100%

it can predetonate and send the piston back down in the opposite direction and possibility of snapping rods

series or parallel ?

this is the older style from a 240D, this is how you test them.

clean surfaces is so important, disassemble them, take off the ceramic plates and clean both sides. Take pictures of the orientation while it's on the engine as to remind yourself how to reassemble.


https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=kUgO6Stx27I

Notice i put a touch of oil on them just to get a visual aid in seeing them work.

Note: Afterwards, wipe them down with a clean cloth and reassemble

Could it be that the engine shut off valve is engaged ? Keeping the fuel shut off. I'm puzzled that the starting fluid didn't have an affect.

When using the monarch primer. Pump it till it starts to squeak and give it another 20 pumps.
And yes go easy on the starting fluid.
Here's something you can do. Loosen the nut on the injection line at the injector. Get into the car, step on the gas pedal to the floor. Crank without waiting for the glow plugs to warm up. Crank for 20 seconds. Turn off key. Check the injectors to see if any diesel is coming out the injection line. If so tighten the injection line nuts. If not repete the process until you do. If no fuel is present after 3 or 4 attempts then I'd suspect the fuel shut off valve. The fact you changed the fuel filters must have something to do with it not starting. Nothing else makes any sense. The starter in my old 85 turned the motor over rather slowly but it always started.
Roddy

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Is it possible to push to start this vehicle?

He said he's getting fuel at the injectors.

So, with diesel, if you have fuel injection + compression you're enjine will run, but to start it you need heat in the chamber, so i suspect glow plugs system somewhere.

Check out the videoS i posted

testing glow plugs - series style
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=kUgO6Stx27I

and a guide on how to sort out the fuel system getting back on the road after running dry.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Ovnj-vhePGw

also, what you'll be seeing if your glow plug system has issue with the relay...

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=f_5YILxWtLQ

i suggest he uses a thick wire to manually heat up 2 or 3 cylinders from the positive terminal of the battery

Only if it's a manual transmission one.

Fuycking ****house Auto's

That is possible, on the back of the injection pump, there will be likely brown in colour vacuum line. Disconnect it from the pump and give the car a once over to try and start it.

it's a circular piece, about 1.5 inches circular with 1 vacuum line coming out of it.

it's possible that the vacuum line has been compromised and letting vacuum pressure through immediately stopping the engine from starting.

I'll make you a video, it will be up in less than 12 hours detailing all the things needed to see what's going on

Yeah the injection lines have fuel. But where did he check. At the pump or at the injector. Still sounds like a fuel problem. Another check would be to remove a glow plug. Make sure the body is grounded and that it has the power lead connected. Turn the ignition to where the glow plugs are getting power and see if the glow plug gets hot. You need to verify in order to eliminate that potential flaw. After all it's got to be something simple. These engines are very reliable and not much can keep them from starting.
Roddy

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