I'm one who always distrusted additives until a few actually did what they claim .

I wonder about this stuff .

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-Nate
1982 240D 408,XXX miles
Ignorance is the mother of suspicion and fear is the father

I did then what I knew how to do ~ now that I know better I do better

What did you think of the videos?

I was pretty sold after the compression tests.
Even more so after he cut the filter open and didn't find a bunch of shrapnel.

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1981 240D 4sp manual. Ivory White.

I understand additives in single viscosity oil but why don't additives interfere with the function of multiviscousity Oils.

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84 300D, 82 Volvo 244Gl Diesel

Definitely not my area, but interesting all the same.
I’m curious what keeps the colloidal suspension sticking to the cylinders.

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1981 240D 4sp manual. Ivory White.

My 190DT is approaching end of life, at 455K miles. It's been a bit grumpy in the morning, smokes a bit, and struggles when it's cold. My first impression after 100 miles with this stuff, is that it's running significantly better. Maybe just placebo effect, but I really think it's improved. It makes zero sense...how can adding a solution of wear metals to the oil fix anything? I wish I had taken the time to check compression before I installed it.

Fortunately, I have. I plan to report back when I eventually use the stuff and run another compression check.

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1981 240D 4sp manual. Ivory White.

its not about just being wear metal in the oil its a specific alloy similar to babbitt metal. that combined with a specific particle size and geometry causes it to fuse to nucleation sites in the cylinder walls as the rings drag it past. it acts to fill in crevices while also acting as a bearing surface due to the oleophilic nature of the alloy. it basically fills in any surface features in any mechanically active areas with babbitt metal. you should be able to see some traces of it on the cam, followers, cylinder walls, and valve stems/guides. you would likely need a microscope to see it but anywhere theres mechanical friction it should deposit in crevices. that is why it kills powerstroke diesels they use a HEUI system which would cause it to foul the bores of the HPOP and the oil side of the unit injectors.

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1985 300D om617: 8mm M pump 175cc 5200rpm, holset he221w @ 30psi, large A2W ic, compounds on the way.
KD9AFT
A&P

Phenomenal... I really appreciate this explanation.

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1981 240D 4sp manual. Ivory White.

O.K., what the hell .

I was buying fuel filters and ether for vintage Motocycle carby cleaning yesterday and spotted this on the shelf, it comes in three different size cans : 4, 6 and 8 cylinder so I bought a 6 cylinder can and will add it to the oil (or whatever the instructions say to do) when I do my routine oil change soon, we'l see what happens .

__________________
-Nate
1982 240D 408,XXX miles
Ignorance is the mother of suspicion and fear is the father

I did then what I knew how to do ~ now that I know better I do better

When you got the counter, did you say it was for your " friend "?

LOL

They know me too well in there ~ I'm always making the counter guy look up things they don't know exist.....

If it does nothing I won't mention it to them, only here .


FWIW, many many decades ago I was involved with a VW Class III unlimited racing car, it was running a PTFE snake oil and lost the drain plug 5 miles out during the Parker 500 ~ the driver radioed in 'what do I do now ?' .

Boss Man said 'drive it in as gently as you can, we're done and will have to rebuild the engine, I hope you make it to the pits' .

Not only did he make it in, there was ZERO DAMAGE to the air cooled VW engine when we took it apart .

I still can't understand that one .

It's why I'll try this Hail Mary Pass on my Coupe ~ I have nothing to loose .

__________________
-Nate
1982 240D 408,XXX miles
Ignorance is the mother of suspicion and fear is the father

I did then what I knew how to do ~ now that I know better I do better

Real life Slick 50 / PTFE additive experience. I have rebuilt / repaired countless engines over 40 years and have a good sense of engine wear / what is still OK to run.

Circa 1992 customer ( electrical engineer at a nuke engineering company ) had a early 60's Ford truck with a 292 Y block. He had owned the truck since the early 90's and did proper maintenance all along. As a test he had used Slick 50 at some point in the past.

One day he lost oil pressure and chose to drive it 4 or so miles to my shop. The oil pump had picked up a hard piece of something causing it to lock up and twist off the oil pump shaft.

With the engine in the truck, I pulled the rod bearing caps off and found bearing wear to be consistent with the trucks mileage with the forward bearings more worn then the rear.

Pulling the main caps and found the rear bearings to be slightly more worn than mileage would suggest. As I worked forward, the mains where progressively more worn and 2 had transferred babbett bearing material from the lower shell to the upper shell. Not much material was stuck to the crank.

Cleaned the crank, rolled in a set of rod and main bearings, replaced the oil pump and drive and the truck was just fine,

The Slick 50 did help the engine run without oil however, I don't think it would do much in a properly operating street engine other than reducing start up wear when oil pressure it low. The treatment might help a race engine that sees aerated oil / intermittent loss of oil pressure but the real fix there would be a dry sump oiling system.

If I was faced with loss of oil pressure with a cam in block engine, I'd overfill the engine by 3 qt or so to get some splash oiling. An overhead cam engine would need some sort of upper oiling so blocking the breather might draw some oil to the cam / rockers or pull the valve cover and manually dump oil on the cam.

While there certainly are "snake oils" out there, I think far too often additives like this are immediately dismissed as snake oil without seeing data. I've wondered about Slick 50. It seems from their advertising that it truly is a miracle product, but whenever I've seen internet posts about it, it's almost always, "Don't trust it, it's a scam." by people who haven't used it but are predetermined to think it's a hoax. So, I've really wondered what the truth is. I'll have to look to see if I can find data from actual users and independent testing.

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Stop paying for animal enslavement, cruelty, and slaughter. Save your health and the planet. Go vegan! I did 18 years ago. https://challenge22.com/

DON'T MESS WITH MY MERCEDES!


1967 W110 Universal Wagon, Euro, Turbo Diesel, Tail Fins, 4 Speed Manual Column Shift, A/C
1980 W116 300SD Turbo Diesel, DB479 Walnut Brown, Sunroof, Highly Optioned, 350,000+ Miles

Thank you for that story, IMO it more or less mirrors mine .

I too tend to think '!snake oil !' but, I've also learned that sometimes you can learn a new thing *if* your mind is open .

We'll see if I notice any thing from this 'restore' product, we've been getting high winds and my Tangerine tree hasn't been trimmed in over 10 years so I attacked it this morning before doing the hot oil & filter change, managed to drop a 20# pair of super heavy duty branch loppers on my one broken and never treated toe so now I can barely walk ~ I did cut most of the tree down and chopped it all up and into a few hundred gallon wheelie bins but then I flaked, no more works to - day or until my foot allows me to walk normally (as normally as I ever walk) again....

Stand by, I will try this product and report back .

__________________
-Nate
1982 240D 408,XXX miles
Ignorance is the mother of suspicion and fear is the father

I did then what I knew how to do ~ now that I know better I do better