To be fair, I obsess over my vehicles. I use them once a week for odd errands but only enough to keep the rubber pliant and the car well lubricated. I pursue original parts for the car (even trim and rare accessories) and don't rest till everything is perfect. Then, after about 2 years, I buy a new project :)

Obsessing
 

......And not a thing wrong with that ! :P .

My thought exactly. At any given time, there are a handful of w123 240d/300d "drivers" on LA craigslist...the kind that look good at least in pictures, interiors are not beat to hell, and purportedly are in solid running condition...and all are generally in the 2500-5000 range (listed prices). If I had to pick a price for my 240D on any given day, I'd guess $3000-4000, so your $3500 sounds just right to me.

Not that I'd sell it mind you..... :rolleyes: .

In the 1970's I foolishly sold a oldie I really liked and was never quite able to replace it .

I made the same mistake in the 1990's, I hope I never do that again :cool: .

You can't replace the body of the car....in Michigan USA they use Salt all over the roads in winter, turns the old non-galvanized MB's to rust dust in a decade or so of winter driving. You might be able to avoid/prolong it if you have your own home heated car wash stall where you thoroughly wash the car off and dry it each and every day you bring it home.....

Also while the old powertrains are good, they still can't match the M112 and M113 engines + 722.6 transmission for longevity/durability/power/economy. An M112 can exceed 30mpg on the freeway, pull a sub 7 second 0-60....and lasts 300k+ with virtually no significant repair. Same for the M113 minus a few mpg's, but way more power.

Especially when I capture a Prius behind me. :devil3:

[QUOTE

Sounds like ours, base model the only option is a right hand mirror. I love the car, but I couldn't imagine paying anything resembling a large amount cash for one.

Stripper 240D's
 

.......Mine didn't have a R/H mirror nor sun roof when new ~ the only option was the excellent slush box transmission .

It now has that R/H mirror of course.....

Plus a few other bits and bobs I picked up in junkyards and put on it .

I'd drive it to South America (not the Darien Gap) now if I needed to .

Base model vehicles have far less things to go wrong as they age out .

There's a reason the OM61X engines enjoy the reputations they do. While the M11X engines are nice, they're not really exceptional in any area by any measure, especially in such company. That said, the diesels from the late 80's/ early 90's (OM60X) are an excellent example of the point you're trying to prove.

it varies! I am in Marietta GA and I had the following for the same request but on my W123

1) $2000
2)$750 with alignment
3) $200 no alignment

How are they not exceptional? They are remarkably reliable, can match or surpass the OM61x in durability and are twice as powerful or more, run cleaner, much lower maintenance. I love the OM61x motors but I'm not going to say they are superior to the M112 or M113 (or OM648) motors....because they're not.

A stock M112 powered E320 can easily surpass 30MPG on the highway, is less than half as loud, and makes 80% more power stock.....and will readily go 300k+ miles with no problems and much less recurring maintenance.

My brother's E400 has 329hp, and 354lbs torque at 1600rpm....and can get 33mpg going 75mph at around 1,600rpm in near silence. Cars have come a LONG ways since the 70's/80's.

Yes the name description does not sound right. I think He meant the locator bar and bushing really with the ball type joint. That keeps the lower control arm located.

If you have a pre agreed arrangement on total loss value. Fine. Just straight collision coverage probably forget a cheque for that amount. I could see a massive fight to get anywhere near it.


As my insurance person told me. Our job is to protect the premiums we collect. By and large they all do pretty well with that.

Crazy prices, and my 1984 & 85 300D's aren't worth more than $4000 to me, especially since parts are becoming a challenge and high priced. I paid $400 & $2500, resp. for my M-B's and put much more time and money into them over the years (10 & 18 yrs, resp.).

But, a high valuation works to your advantage. I paid $800 for my 1965 Chrysler in 1991 (perfect shape, CA no rust) and it has been totaled 3 times by my insurance (2 uninsured drivers, 1 deer). Their body shop usually says "can't repair", because they are idiots or lazy. I send them ads for similar cars and let them decide on value, usually ~$4000, which they think is a deal since don't understand many other cars are more desired (bigger engine, 2 door). I take $500 to keep it, fix and often get a full repaint. The deer just crunched 1 door. I bought a used door for $150 w/ shipping and painted myself. Easy bolt-on fix.