When should you get a parts car? - PeachParts Mercedes-Benz Forum

Father Of Giants · #1 10-08-2019, 05:12 PM

So there's a cheap 1997 E300 I'm thinking about buying to part out and hoard parts from it.

It would be very useful to get the exhaust off of it and also copy the vacuum system since mine is fubared.

Seller wants $750, but it doesn't run, seller claims it needs a fuel pump(mechanic told him), also it ran rough at idle (probably low compression).

Was hopping the engine was healthy, that way I can revive it, if the engine has low compression, I will avoid it.

Gonna look at it next sunday.

jake12tech · #2 10-08-2019, 05:37 PM

You can’t jump to the conclusion it has low compression without a compression test. I’d wager it has a fuel leak and has air in it. The IP never goes bad really and the fact he called it a “fuel pump” like in a gas car tells me he probably doesn’t know s*** about diesels (the mechanic).

Why is your vacuum system FUBARED? Anything is fixable. Most likely it isn’t routed correctly and you need a diagram. I’d check this car out and see if it’s rusty and In better shape than your car. I remember you saying you’ve got lots of issues as far as low power, rust etc. might be able to make your car the donor to fix this car.

Father Of Giants · #3 10-08-2019, 06:04 PM

I knackered my vacuum system, it's fixable, but I have no idea how to go get all the vacuum lines in the right spot.

Seller claimed it blew white smoke, that's why I got concerned. I'm positive I can get it running, probably a leaky o ring.

Also good point on using that car to figure out my low power issue, I can shotgun suspect parts quickly with nothing to loose. I'm gonna see if I can talk him down a tiny bit. It's going to be a $1000 car after towing, insurance, and registration.

123boy · #4 10-08-2019, 07:51 PM

Absolutely offer him less money. $500 seems like a reasonable initial offer, all things considered. Actually, and maybe you're already aware, during price negotiations of any kind, you're first offer should be so low that you're embarrassed to even say it. I'd offer $200, initially, telling him it's gonna take $1,000 in parts right off the bat. Plus the tow, insurance and registration...heh heh. Say you're gonna have 2 grand into it before you even know if it's gonna run (he obviously doesn't know much about it). Maybe, then, you'd end up at a $500 selling price?
Also, and I'm NOT trying to be a "smart ass", here, but if I've learned ANYTHING on this forum, it's that detail and accuracy are important. The term is FUBAR. It's an acronym. It's origin is military. It doesn't have a "past tense". Your "vacuum system is FUBAR". Or, as another poster inquired, "why is your vacuum system FUBAR"? F.U.B.A.R. (F'd Up Beyond All Recognition) Sometimes, the words "reason" and "repair" are incorrectly substituted for "recognition. It applies to the destruction of military targets, be they installations, equipment or.......human beings. Just tryin to share a little non-Benz related knowledge (probably because my Benz knowledge is rather limited...)

Father Of Giants · #5 10-08-2019, 08:20 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by 123boy

If, as stated in your initial post, you're buying the car "to part out and hoard parts from it", why would you register and insure the vehicle? Just wondering. You could always wait and see, should it be an easy fix and you get it running and reliable. That way you'd just have the towing expense right now.
Absolutely offer him less money. $500 seems like a reasonable initial offer, all things considered.
Also, and I'm NOT trying to be a "smart ass", here, but if I've learned ANYTHING

I kinda have too because I live in an apartment, without plates it WILL get towed within days.

If the engine is bad, I'm cannibalizing it, we'll see. I just don't want to drive another vehicle with a missfire/ low compression. It could serve as a back up car however now that I think about it. It depends on how bad the engine runs.

The previous SDL we had, had low compression I drove that car for over 2 years like that and hated it.

I saw and experienced an 2.5 Turbo with a completely dead cylinder, that was horrible feeling. Car shook violently.

jake12tech · #6 10-13-2019, 08:51 AM

Did you buy it?

Father Of Giants · #7 10-13-2019, 09:05 AM

No, I agreed for the 20th. However, I have to tallk the seller down to $500 or $550 or it's a no go.

pimpernell · #8 10-13-2019, 09:14 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Father Of Giants

I knackered my vacuum system, it's fixable, but I have no idea how to go get all the vacuum lines in the right spot.

Seller claimed it blew white smoke, that's why I got concerned. I'm positive I can get it running, probably a leaky o ring.

Also good point on using that car to figure out my low power issue, I can shotgun suspect parts quickly with nothing to loose. I'm gonna see if I can talk him down a tiny bit. It's going to be a $1000 car after towing, insurance, and registration.

"Shotgunning" parts with parts of "unknown condition" from a non running vehicle is a good way to waste time and money.

t walgamuth · #9 10-13-2019, 09:31 AM

It sounds to me like it has some bad glow plugs or a simple fuel leak. A compression test will tell the tale. I agree it is probably not the injection pump and that the mechanic probably is not diesel educated. White or light blue smoke can be fuel from a bad glow plug.

Father Of Giants · #10 10-13-2019, 09:37 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by pimpernell

"Shotgunning" parts with parts of "unknown condition" from a non running vehicle is a good way to waste time and money.

I think it would work, why not? Doubt that car has an identical issues of mine, I see where you are coming from.

In the grand scheme of things, I think it's worth it. I can finally correctly rebuild the vacuum system, change the waterpump housing so I can finally change the worn tensioner assembly.I stripped my fan clutch bolt.

Can change out my exhaust system quickly. Worse comes to worse if the car truly is junk, I'll have a bunch of "make you stuck parts" in trunk. Alternator, starter, and crank position sensor to name a few. Having a spare set of injectors is also nice, the list goes on and on.

My brother could use some parts as well.

Father Of Giants · #11 10-13-2019, 09:45 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by t walgamuth

It sounds to me like it has some bad glow plugs or a simple fuel leak. A compression test will tell the tale. I agree it is probably not the injection pump and that the mechanic probably is not diesel educated. White or light blue smoke can be fuel from a bad glow plug.

I hope so, I want to avoid a an engine with bad rings or worn cylinder walls.

BillGrissom · #12 10-13-2019, 11:43 AM

Offer him $500. If he balks, let him sit on it for a few months, then inquire again. A salvage yard might offer him $200. Can no longer donate a car and write-off an imaginary value on fed taxes, like people used to do.

83w126 · #13 10-13-2019, 02:17 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by BillGrissom

Offer him $500. If he balks, let him sit on it for a few months, then inquire again. A salvage yard might offer him $200. Can no longer donate a car and write-off an imaginary value on fed taxes, like people used to do.

In California they do pay $1k for pre 96 cars that run and drive and crush them whole, so that kinda sucks.

Junkman · #14 10-13-2019, 10:12 PM

Doesn't sound like you want a parts car since you have no place to store it or work on it. Winter is coming and you're in VA. Get the exhaust and any other major parts if you can - but not the car.

I'd force myself to pass. I turned down a 617 SD because the paint was bad. I think the yard mis-diagnosed fuel filters as a bad valve & would have come down to $500 or so.

Father Of Giants · #15 10-14-2019, 04:44 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Junkman

Doesn't sound like you want a parts car since you have no place to store it or work on it. Winter is coming and you're in VA. Get the exhaust and any other major parts if you can - but not the car.

I'd force myself to pass. I turned down a 617 SD because the paint was bad. I think the yard mis-diagnosed fuel filters as a bad valve & would have come down to $500 or so.

I've worked on my all of our cars before without incident. Also he only wants to sell it whole.

As long as it's plated and I move it every three days it's fine.
Only time will tell.