E300TD poor running after cool down

[Pauly Mac]

1998 E300TD runs at about 75% power. After I turn it off, let it rest for 5-10 minutes it runs terribly. Idles fine but has very limited power and misfires badly when driving. It displayed a MAF sensor code, replaced sensor and the situation did not improve.

I checked for vacuum leaks using starting fluid and noted that the metal tube that connects to the rear of EGR from the exhaust manifold is firmly in place, but the idle did change when sprayed with starting fluid.

Just completed a lot of work to vehicle:
Removed and had head rebuilt by machine shop.
New glow plugs.
Fuel Injectors rebuilt
MAF sensor replaced with Bosch unit from PeachParts.
Replaced vacuum lines from EGR to control unit

Vehicle ran well before, head had to be removed because of the glow plugs.

Appreciate any and all advice.

[spock505]

The only thing I can think of that would cause a mis-fire is the lifters. These are hydraulic and will expand if the cams are removed.

Have you checked the timing?

[Olivier]

did you look at the tank strainer and the prefiler?

How is the pipe going from the manifold to the Turbo Boost sensor?
Might be perished. But this would only cut off the boost, not make it run bad...

[KarTek]

Did all this start immediately after it was returned from service?

[Pauly Mac]

Lifters: When I removed the cams and carrier from the head I removed the lifters and did not put them in their exact positions when I reinstalled the carrier and the cams. I have not check the timing.

Filters: I installed a new pre-filter, but did not look at the tank strainer filter.
Vacuum lines: Checked all the vacuum lines for leaks with starting fluid. Replaced the line from the EGR to its module.

All of the problems started immediately after getting back on the road.

[engatwork]

Sounds almost like it is timing related to me. Especially the part where it won't make over 75% power.

[KarTek]

Look for air in the fuel lines when running. Verify that all of the clear lines are in the proper locations - it's possible to reverse some of them and the car will run but poorly.

Finally, pull the pre-filter and verify that the larger O-ring is present. New ones do not come with an o-ring.

[Olivier]

This was tank strainer... Just to say... She ded 3 time on the way bak and I had to switch fuel lines to get her home...

[Pauly Mac]

Fuel Lines: I learned the hard way that no o-ring came with the pre-filter. I could not get the car started and the air out of the lines until I discovered the missing o-ring. I checked for air in the fuel lines and am not seeing any. Fuel lines are in the correct location.

Timing: could the timing be off even if I am almost certain that I maintained the position of the timing chain during the head removal/install process. I had the engine at TDC and cam mark lined up when I zip tied the cam sprocket to the timing chain. It all lined up correctly when I reinstalled the head/cams.

If it is a timing issue why would the poor running start only after the engine was warm? Wouldn't the symptoms be constant?

Thanks.
Paul

[engatwork]

If it is a timing issue why would the poor running start only after the engine was warm? Wouldn't the symptoms be constant?

They should be. Everytime I have seen timing off (on timing belt Hondas) it would crank/idle fine but would not rev up. I'm just thinking out loud here. Were the timing marks lined up after installation of the chain tensioner?

[TMAllison]

The engine will run with the fuel lines connected up in the wrong locations but won't make power, have you double checked that the fuel path is correct?

[spock505]

Originally Posted by Pauly Mac

Fuel Lines: I learned the hard way that no o-ring came with the pre-filter. I could not get the car started and the air out of the lines until I discovered the missing o-ring. I checked for air in the fuel lines and am not seeing any. Fuel lines are in the correct location.

Timing: could the timing be off even if I am almost certain that I maintained the position of the timing chain during the head removal/install process. I had the engine at TDC and cam mark lined up when I zip tied the cam sprocket to the timing chain. It all lined up correctly when I reinstalled the head/cams.

If it is a timing issue why would the poor running start only after the engine was warm? Wouldn't the symptoms be constant?

Thanks.
Paul

I have found the best way is to eliminate one thing at a time where possible.

The hydraulic valves lifters is a common issue but will disappear over time. With mine I went out each evening and rotated the crank into a different position allowing the lobes to squeeze out alternate lifters.

You probably don't want to hear this but it could be poorly seated head gasket leaking when hot.

Start with the timing as the cams/crank could be spot on but the pump may be a tooth out. Line up cams/crank then remove inspection plug on side of pump, you should see a 'notch' exactly in the middle in the horizontal position.

[Pauly Mac]

Latest Update:
I ended up taking the car to the dealer. I was getting a constant P0300 code and the check engine light was on. The dealer told me that after 9 hrs of diagnostic time it was determined that the injection pump was bad and that I was not getting fuel to 2 of the 6 cylinders.

They checked the compression, timing, fuel injection timing, timing belt slack, fuel pressure, and fuel injectors. All fine.

The dealer rep said that there was a circuit board in the pump and it is bad since the fuel was not being delivered to two of the cylinders that were next to each other.

The dealer quoted me a price of $2000 just to replace the pump. I declined and am picking the vehicle up today. Any insights would be appreciated. I do not have $2000.

Thanks.


OM606, 1998, E300TD, W210

[engatwork]

Take it to a Bosch authorized shop.

[mannys9130]

Just want to add that starting fluid is not the correct way to find vacuum leaks on a diesel... Tge vacuum pump won't care if it sucks in ether.