Rear Brake + Axle Questions

[imgolden]

Hello all, I am getting ready for my next big project on my 82' 300D.

I am replacing the rear rotors, pads, and brake lines. Additionally, I just noticed that all 4 of my axle boots are cracked, but not split open yet. ALSO (ha), I just used my IR thermometer after a short drive, and the rear passenger rotor was 130 degrees hotter than the other 3, so I'm guessing that caliper is probably freezing.

Soooo:

-Since, I am replacing 1 caliper, I should probably replace the other right?

-Any benefit to re-booting the axles over just replacing the entire axle? Besides price.

-Are 'DSS' axles any good? They aren't expensive.

-Any tips or tools that will make this job easier?

-Anything else to do, while I'm at it?

Thanks a lot!

[Sugar Bear]

The caliper may not be bad. I've seen pads stick in the caliper due to corrosion and brake hoses collapse internally and not release pressure. You can check to see if the pads are sticking. If they are remove them, clean the edges, clean where the pad contacts (clean it don't remove material) then use brake lube on the pins, pads and calipers.

If replacing one caliper, replace both..

Are you replacing the brake hoses or the steel lines? If replacing steel lines consider using NiCopp, you won't believe how easy it is to bend and form.

How many miles on the axles and are they MBZ? If under 200K miles and MBZ I'd try to reboot them. I've used CVJ axles with good results, they may reboot yours. Keep the axles on the same side they are on now.

Change the oil in the differential.

Get an inexpensive brake pressure bleeder and flush the brakes. Motive pressure bleeder has served me well.

Start soaking bleeder screws and line connections days in advance.

Good luck!!!

[Diesel911]

Originally Posted by imgolden

Hello all, I am getting ready for my next big project on my 82' 300D.

I am replacing the rear rotors, pads, and brake lines. Additionally, I just noticed that all 4 of my axle boots are cracked, but not split open yet. ALSO (ha), I just used my IR thermometer after a short drive, and the rear passenger rotor was 130 degrees hotter than the other 3, so I'm guessing that caliper is probably freezing.

Soooo:

-Since, I am replacing 1 caliper, I should probably replace the other right?

-Any benefit to re-booting the axles over just replacing the entire axle? Besides price.

-Are 'DSS' axles any good? They aren't expensive.

-Any tips or tools that will make this job easier?

-Anything else to do, while I'm at it?

Thanks a lot!

Do you know if your axles are homokinetic (has a similar can on each end) or annular (the differential end has bolts going through it)?

Rebooting is one of they ways you can keep the real Mercedes Axles.

You can send the real Axles off to CVJ in Colorado to be rebuilt.

When I first got my Car I put on Cadone rebuilds (rebuilt Mercedes axles)

They were selling new Axles made by the company Lobro $350-$400 range.

The various aftermarket made in china axles seem to have improved in quality but people still have issues with them. If you get the Chinese annual Axles you need to remove the bolts one by one and re-install the one by one with Loctite as they are well known to come apart otherwise.

[imgolden]

Thanks for the replies everyone.

My axles have the 2 cans on each end, so I believe that's Homokinetic.

The car has 184k on the odo, but the odo was broken when we bought it. Based on the wear on the interior, my guess is that actual mileage is 200-250k.

I'm replacing just the rubber brake hoses.

I'm leaning toward OEM re-manufactured axles, there's an Ebay seller that has them for $220/each.

So the Chinese $100 axles are just straight garbage? I'm trying to keep this car for a long time, not flip it.

[Diesel911]

Originally Posted by imgolden

Thanks for the replies everyone.

My axles have the 2 cans on each end, so I believe that's Homokinetic.

The car has 184k on the odo, but the odo was broken when we bought it. Based on the wear on the interior, my guess is that actual mileage is 200-250k.

I'm replacing just the rubber brake hoses.

I'm leaning toward OEM re-manufactured axles, there's an Ebay seller that has them for $220/each.

So the Chinese $100 axles are just straight garbage? I'm trying to keep this car for a long time, not flip it.

The eBay seller may be making up Cardon Rebuilt Axles. I started getting slight cracks on my Cardon Axel Boots after 5 years.
Local part places sell the Cardone Axles and you don't need to pay shipping and if you have issues you have someone at the counter to speak to and to get an exchange from.
My Cardone Axles likely qualified for an exchange under the life time warranty but I bought it from Chiefs Autoparts which was bought out by some other Company which was replaced by O'reillys auto parts. I simply decided not to attempt the exchange and besides I wanted to try re-booting.

Beyond the boot issue the Cardone axles have been on the car since 2008.

[imgolden]

Originally Posted by Diesel911

The eBay seller may be making up Cardon Rebuilt Axles. I started getting slight cracks on my Cardon Axel Boots after 5 years.
Local part places sell the Cardone Axles and you don't need to pay shipping and if you have issues you have someone at the counter to speak to and to get an exchange from.
My Cardone Axles likely qualified for an exchange under the life time warranty but I bought it from Chiefs Autoparts which was bought out by some other Company which was replaced by O'reillys auto parts. I simply decided not to attempt the exchange and besides I wanted to try re-booting.

Beyond the boot issue the Cardone axles have been on the car since 2008.

Looks like Advance Auto has Cardone for $75 each (nice price)

Or, MBZ has them for $175 if I send my COREs

Or Uncle Kent has a nice re-boot kit for $120

Cardone's fitment system isn't great, can anyone confirm that Cardone 60-9022 is what I need?

[Sugar Bear]

I'd run what's in there and maybe load the boots up with GummiPflege and replace with MBZ when needed. Check CVJ, they are good.

Good luck!!!

[imgolden]

Originally Posted by Sugar Bear

I'd run what's in there and maybe load the boots up with GummiPflege and replace with MBZ when needed. Check CVJ, they are good.

Good luck!!!

So you're saying I could inject more grease + GummiPfledge into the boots on the car, and stretch their life out a bit? Not a bad idea. Certainly the easiest and cheapest.

[Sugar Bear]

I wouldn't inject more grease as mixing grease types can cause problems. Slather on GummiPflege and look for leaks when doing routine maintenance. At the first sign of a breach/leak in the boot get yours rebuilt. Boot failure doesn't leave you suddenly stranded without warning.

If this a car you want to take on long frequent trips I'd address it now with rebooted OE axles.

Good luck!!!

[Diesel911]

Originally Posted by imgolden

So you're saying I could inject more grease + GummiPfledge into the boots on the car, and stretch their life out a bit? Not a bad idea. Certainly the easiest and cheapest.

The original axles have oil similar to differential fluid in them.

When some people reboot they use Oil. However, most like myself use CV Joint Grease. Even the well known rebuilder CVJ uses grease unless you request Oil.

One of the advantages of grease is it does not leak out like Oil does.

The Cardone's had grease in them and I made sure there was even more grease in them then when I took them apart.

[imgolden]

Thank you Diesel911 and Sugar Bear. As always, you two have really helped me think this through.

I think I'll just do the brake job, and while I'm at it slather on the GummiPfledge and replace the diff fluid.

This is a weekend car that doesn't get driven much, so it may be a while until a boot opens up. Then, I can work on replacing those at that time.

I am also going to inspect/clean/grease the sticking caliper today and see if I can get it to open up fully. If not, I'll replace the calipers with re-manned OEM.

[imgolden]

So I finally had a chance to investigate tonight, and one of the pistons on the stuck caliper is seized - even when I cracked the bleeder valve. Whats more, the rubber piston boot was so old that it cracked and feel apart upon touching..
Time for new calipers!

Can anyone recommend a company that does good re-manufacturing for these? I'm looking for ATE calipers.

[Mxfrank]

Difference in rotor temp could be caused by a sticky caliper, swollen brake line, dragging parking brake shoe, rusty parking brake cable, or worn bearing. You won't know until you get into it. I like to replace rotors in pairs, but as long as they have good surfaces and are within the thickness spec, it won't matter much if you want to replace just the one. If a caliper is dragging, and they're both of an age, then I'd replace both. But you can usually do fine replacing just one.

[psaboic]

Originally Posted by imgolden

So I finally had a chance to investigate tonight, and one of the pistons on the stuck caliper is seized - even when I cracked the bleeder valve. Whats more, the rubber piston boot was so old that it cracked and feel apart upon touching..
Time for new calipers!

Can anyone recommend a company that does good re-manufacturing for these? I'm looking for ATE calipers.

You may or may not agree, but I have ATE calipers on my 83 300D and I got rebuilt ones from Rock Auto. Make sure you get ones with new hardware as they sell both ones with and without hardware. They have held up pretty well, but one of mine has started acting up after about 5 years.

[imgolden]

Originally Posted by psaboic

You may or may not agree, but I have ATE calipers on my 83 300D and I got rebuilt ones from Rock Auto. Make sure you get ones with new hardware as they sell both ones with and without hardware. They have held up pretty well, but one of mine has started acting up after about 5 years.

Thanks that's helpful, I'll look into Rock Auto. Cardone also has some well-priced units, I've heard good things about them.
There's also Centric, and BBB, never heard of those companies.