plugging oil cooler lines 617

[yuke]

Hello I'm the guy that had the tap or knock and could not locate it so engine is coming out getting replaced with an 84 (617) that was in a front end wreck and was sitting for probably 15-20 yrs. I would like to start the engine before I remove it and put in my 85. Question is the cooler lines and cooler got damaged in the wreck can I just cap the input and output at the filter? If so does any body know where I could get the caps at and what thread would they need be? I also would like to do a flush on the cooling system if possible w/o a radiator hooked in. If its too much trouble I have an old radiator I could hook on but do'nt want to hook the trans lines to it cause it had a leak between the rad. and trans. cooler. I just want to hear the engine run before I stick it in the 85 that has the knock. Or should I just pull it and run it on the floor before installing?

[SonnyMorrow]

I wouldn't cap the lines just to be safe, instead, you could just bypass the oil cooler with one line in a loop. You'd have to find some sort of high-pressure line that would work. Not sure if anyone has capped them but could be risky, though I'm not sure the exact ramifications.

Definitely a good idea to start it before doing all that work though. I'd hope the engine didn't lose all/most of its oil during that accident seeing as the oil cooler and lines got damaged.

You could also pull the engine and swap your oil cooler and lines.

I've ran a 617 on the ground w/o any cooling system for a minute or so, a lot of people don't think its a good idea but I've seen no problems. Also talked to a lot of people who have done the same, no issues.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Bx2L6aJulIo

[Usaguy]

Originally Posted by yuke

... can I just cap the input and output at the filter? ...

I don't recommend it on a 617 especially the turbo.

you would have to remove the oil thermostat otherwise you will get oil starvation when it gets up to temperature.

only some euro 4 cylinder 616/615 came factory without a cooler. Housings had caps on them and no thermostat. All 617s had a cooler.

[yuke]

Thanks Sonny and Christuna I think when searching this morning I found my answer on the oil cooler lines to rest the engine I will make a short loop out of 10 AN hose,need 2 swivel ends on hose M-18 x 1.5 and 2 male fittings to screw into oil filter houseing to hook up to and I might just even leave it that way as I really do not know if these engines need that oil cooler. I am not worried that the oil cooler got damaged as the engine did not suffer oil loss before accident just stopped due to accident immediately. What I am more concerned about is the cooling system in that it engine block had coolant in it sitting for probably 20 yrs. and seems to have a lot of corrosion inside so much that the water pump is locked up. So it would be nice if somehow I could fill the block with maybe vinegar or citrus flush let it sit a day or two then flush it as I do not want all that crud and corroison going into my rad. then plugging that up down the road and I have to either unhook the trans. or loop those lines or hook them to a bad radiator that I have laying around that leaks between the coolant and trans. cooler will have think about it. I do know how to loop the oil cooler lines.

[Sugar Bear]

Are the fittings the same on each end of both hoses? If yes, loop it together with one oil cooler line or get a barbed fitting, cut an old hose and connect it with the barbed fitting.

For flushing an adapter into the drain plug on the passenger side of the block connected to a garden hose would work.

Good luck!!!

[Idahobenz]

You might be OK running the engine without cooler attached. The design of the oil system has a thermostat in the oil filter housing that only sends oil to the cooler when it reaches the set temperature. The problem is they all too often are stuck in the open position. But this also means you could safely cap the lines for your test.

[DeliveryValve]

I've run a few 617s on the ground. I just cut fitting on one oil line, and remove the rubber hose. On the other line, I cut the hose off the oil cooler side fitting and then loop the hose to the first line using two hose clamps. It's only temporary, but works as assurance if the thermostat is somehow open.

On the cooling, I didn't run a radiator, I only fill with antifreeze blocking the lower hose outlet and rear heater hose outlet. No a big fan of running it totally dry.
In your case, I'd fill it with citric acid solution and run it.
If it's still in the car and no suitable radiator, definitely loop the trans line or else you'll make a big oil mess quickly.

[Sugar Bear]

X2 on Delivery Valve's idea on looping the oil cooler lines. Grind off the collar one, cut the fitting completely off the hose you are using and slide the hose over the ground off collared fitting. Double clamp it if you can.

Good luck!!!

[yuke]

Thanks for replies I am struggling to get this engine running that sat for probably 20+ yrs. in damp conditions. Yesterday I looped the 2 lines together with simply a 1" hose over the 2 barbs on the lines and put 1 clamp on each end done for now. Then I adjusted all the valves. Got the motor to turn over with the starter, checked the glow plugs had 1 bad one, do'nt remember if I put some Marvel oil down each cyl. or not before I checked compression but on my 1st cyl. check it started to build compression and then quit and I get no reading at all after then I quit for the day. I did notice that as I was revolving the motor oil mist was coming out both intake and exhaust manifolds is this normal? When I did hold my finger over each glow plug hole I feel compression how many psi. not sure so either something is wrong with my cheapy H.F. tester or I am not building any compression in which case what do I do the then pull head and do valve job? Just trying to get a doner motor running and installed so I can fix my other motor with knock. I am hoping my tester gauge is just faulty will continue trying to start this doner motor today again.

[SonnyMorrow]

Originally Posted by yuke

Thanks for replies I am struggling to get this engine running that sat for probably 20+ yrs. in damp conditions. Yesterday I looped the 2 lines together with simply a 1" hose over the 2 barbs on the lines and put 1 clamp on each end done for now. Then I adjusted all the valves. Got the motor to turn over with the starter, checked the glow plugs had 1 bad one, do'nt remember if I put some Marvel oil down each cyl. or not before I checked compression but on my 1st cyl. check it started to build compression and then quit and I get no reading at all after then I quit for the day. I did notice that as I was revolving the motor oil mist was coming out both intake and exhaust manifolds is this normal? When I did hold my finger over each glow plug hole I feel compression how many psi. not sure so either something is wrong with my cheapy H.F. tester or I am not building any compression in which case what do I do the then pull head and do valve job? Just trying to get a doner motor running and installed so I can fix my other motor with knock. I am hoping my tester gauge is just faulty will continue trying to start this doner motor today again.

Well if you poured oil in the cylinders, oil coming out of them sounds normal. As for the compression test, I bet your gauge is not working at all. I rented one the other week test a gasoline engine (only had fittings for diesel engine) and I kid you not I had to return it 3 different times until I got one that was working. If then needle jumps and goes back to 0 then your gauge is screwed up, it should always hold pressure.

Make a video next time you're at the engine of the compression test. You're going to need to really utilize those glowplugs to get it started for the record.