We will soon be doing this job. Parts on the way.

Question/Comments

1. I read where some including Kent at Mercsauce say to use a strap or comealong to pull the LCA forward, so mount can be removed/installed. How can this be done without deforming or damaging the LCA bushings?

2. One or two owners said they were able to do job by screwing the mount thread all the way in, then using pry-bar to push mount far enough forward to get it out. I think they also removed the nut and disk on the lower side of the LCA under the spring. This doesn't seem to be how many DIYers are doing it, but some have. Any reason?

3. Another thought, was to cut the threaded end of old mount, then remove. This leaves that area open and perhaps a bottle jack could be used to move the LCA forward a bit. Then brace somehow. I read about this method, but for different car.

In the diagram below, would it make sense to buy just one of part 140 and use that to replace the bottom half of 140 on both sides?

__________________
Graham
85 300D,72 350SL, 98 E320, Outback 2.5

Not many have used that method so there is not a lot of feed back on it. IF your Lower Control Arm Bushings are right on the edge of going bad puling the control arm forward as indicated my finish them off but I have not read anyone saying that happened to them.

The guide rod is one of the front suspension adjustment points. Unscrewing it from the mount and replacing the mount (even if you counted the exposed threads or measured the guide rod) you may end up with it not having the same dimensions.

The picture of the diagram is not showing up on my dialup internet. So I can't comment on that.

You could measure the exposed threads or count them loosen the clamp and turn the mount in as far as it will go. That would shorten the over all length and if that is not enough at least you don't need to deflect the front control arm as far.

If you had the proper spring compressor you could compress the spring enough so that you could get the lower spring seat off and get at that bolt that holds in the front end of the guild rod. Once that is done you only need about 2 inches or so of movement to get it out of the slot it is in.

__________________
84 300D, 82 Volvo 244Gl Diesel

Thanks for reply.

I realise that adjustments will be way off after doing this and I will need an alignment. I am sure existing mount is worn so counting threads or measuring only a way to get to alignment shop!

The LCA bushings are quite substantial and look OK. The eccentric adjustment bolt goes through those bushings, so I imagine you wouldn't want to damage them.

A spring compressor would be nice! But maybe just replacing lower half of that front LCA mount kit would help?

__________________
Graham
85 300D,72 350SL, 98 E320, Outback 2.5

I am not understanding this part. Don't know what you mean by lower half.

__________________
84 300D, 82 Volvo 244Gl Diesel

Might because pictures don't show at your end? Part140 in diagram posted. Part 1233301475. Control Arm Bushing Kit; Lower Outer; Guide Rod to Control Arm.

Lower half could be removed, and that is what I read some have done to allow more movement of the guide rod. Nut is actually on bottom, I believe.

__________________
Graham
85 300D,72 350SL, 98 E320, Outback 2.5

Decision is to remove spring and do both ends of guide rods. Friend has compressor ordered.

Funny thing though - the clunk has been absent for a while now! Yet a week ago, it would clunk all the time. Haven't touched the suspension. Weird.

We will change the guide rod mount, bushings, spring shims and motor mounts. Maybe springs too, depending on what we find.

__________________
Graham
85 300D,72 350SL, 98 E320, Outback 2.5