Hi all, I just wanted to share the results of a quick treatment of Meguiar's #7 can do to bring back gloss to some slightly oxidized paint. When I first got this 240D it was completely oxidized and looked terrible. That was about two years ago. One of the first things I did after getting it running properly was cut, polish and wax the paint, but after two years without keeping up on the waxing, the paint started oxidizing slightly again. I wanted to use this non-abrasive because I have no idea how thin the paint is and want to preserve it as much as possible, having already done a heavy cut. I'm very happy with the result!

Before #7, oxidization creeping in

After #7

Before

After


It's a slight difference but really good for not cutting the paint! I would say it is equal to a polish without taking any paint off.

Smart choice with great results!

__________________
"Rudeness is a weak man's imitation of strength" - Eric Hoffer

Nice! Definitely wax it to keep the oils locked in or they get weathered out, I've found. No harm, but it'll look dull again.

I wanna see someone prove that #7 will actually work on real oxidized paint. The paint that looks completely matte.

#7 has never done a hot dang thing for me. And wasn't worth the hand application.

__________________

I did the same thing back in June. It definitely helped with the old, dry clearcoat on my 300CD.

Id recommend you read up on the Mike Phillips how to, on applying and using the #7.

Im quite a believer on this stuff, especially if allowed to soak in as Mike recommends. I wont hold my breath on long-term prospects associated with the longevity in a car that lives outside, even if topped with some sort of wax or sealant... But for a vehicle kept indoors it should help keep a good look for a long time.

In theory, this stuff doesnt really help a clearcoated car, rather, it is designed to interact with the pigments and resins of a single stage painted car. I havent used it on my 240D, which has single stage paint (I will), but as noted, Ive been pleased with my clearcoated 300CD. I think as the clearcoats get older, they wear, possibly shrink, possibly get microcracks, etc. For whatever reason, there's enough interface that the appearance improves. Whether that's just because it is filling into voids, or if it is truly interacting with pigments and the clear, I cant say. But one way or another, it is a great, if generally forgotten product.

__________________
Current Diesels:
1981 240D (73K)
1982 300CD (169k)
1985 190D (169k)
1991 350SD (113k)
1991 350SD (206k)
1991 300D (228k)
1993 300SD (291k)
1993 300D 2.5T (338k)
1996 Dodge Ram CTD (442k)
1996 Dodge Ram CTD (265k)

Past Diesels:
1983 300D (228K)
1985 300D (233K)

this looks fantastic!

I have a 300D in orient red as well and they aren't kidding when they say reds age the worst.

What was your process/what products did you use when you first got it? Your car looks amazing and I'd love if mine looked even half as good.

Was yours anywhere near as bad as this? I don't take a lot of photos of the exterior, as it's pretty shabby, so here is my dog, and the time someone backed into me:




Thanks!

LBJ

__________________
1985 300D Surfblau "Blueberry" 250K R.I.P
1984 300CD Manila Beige "The Banana" 238K R.I.P
1984 300TD Cypress Green "Olive" 390K (M.I.A.)
1982 300D Orient Red "Steak" 195K
1985 Euro 300TD Lapis Blue “Pancake” 200k KM
1982 300D Light Ivory “Butter” 183k
1984 300TD Black “Pepper” 55k

What kind of wax are you using to lock-in said oils?

I’m assuming single stage paints require their own type of wax. I used a
Liquid wax at some stage and boy did it make a mess...

__________________
1981 240D 4sp manual. Ivory White.

lbj, please have a look at the Mike Phillips Meguiars #7 articles on Autogeek.

Not sure if the URL will work here:

https://www.autogeekonline.net/forum/how-to-articles-by-mike-phillips/103535-all-mike-phillips-7-show-car-glaze-articles-one-place.html

The different articles are all shown in there. Otherwise google "All Mike Phillips #7 Show Car Glaze Articles in one place", or "The Secret to Removing Oxidation and Restoring a Show Car Finish to Antique Single Stage Paints".

Of course not all MB paints are single stage. The metallic blue of my 300CD certainly isnt, and Id bet that red on your car wasnt. But as I mentioned, even on these old clears, this stuff works - probably wouldnt work on a new, tightly sealed and non-porous clear...

__________________
Current Diesels:
1981 240D (73K)
1982 300CD (169k)
1985 190D (169k)
1991 350SD (113k)
1991 350SD (206k)
1991 300D (228k)
1993 300SD (291k)
1993 300D 2.5T (338k)
1996 Dodge Ram CTD (442k)
1996 Dodge Ram CTD (265k)

Past Diesels:
1983 300D (228K)
1985 300D (233K)

Single stage can be waxed with the same products as clearcoat paints.

The difference is that single stage can be worked easier if there's something wrong, or it is oxidized.

The point of this stuff is that it helps to rejuvinate the paint and the upper surface that is exposed.

Ive used pure carnauba wax on my single stage 240D, and it lasts for years with nice beading, because its parked indoors. If stored outdoors, a natural wax wont last as long.

If stored outdoors, a sealant may be a better option. Some say that they dont shine as well, and that may be true on a mirror shine black, red, or a clearcoated paint. But on an MB with a relatively matte single stage, Im sure it doesnt make a bit of difference... Keeping oxidation of the outer surface under control is the key thing to do...

The articles I spoke of are probably more important for single stage. Put it on thick, and let it sit on there a while. That's the more important step for "locking in" oils, because of the time that allows it to migrate in and interact with the pigments and resins for a long time...

__________________
Current Diesels:
1981 240D (73K)
1982 300CD (169k)
1985 190D (169k)
1991 350SD (113k)
1991 350SD (206k)
1991 300D (228k)
1993 300SD (291k)
1993 300D 2.5T (338k)
1996 Dodge Ram CTD (442k)
1996 Dodge Ram CTD (265k)

Past Diesels:
1983 300D (228K)
1985 300D (233K)

TBH I have no idea what I'm doing with wax. I've always had a difficult time with it, this car in particular.
Think I was using macguiar's liquid wax.

When I was younger I remember using turtle wax which dried to a light haze. Easy to see, easy to buff out with a rag.
With this stuff, its state never seemed to change, and as such, every step felt completely arbitrary.

And now unfortunately, I have a bunch of what look like dirt swirls that I can't scrub out.

__________________
1981 240D 4sp manual. Ivory White.

I use Meguiars Mirror Glaze Hi-Tech Yellow Wax because that is what they recommend with the #7. I'm not sure how well it locks in the shine, but I figured I would give it a shot since the #7 worked really well. I'm sure any wax will keep it looking good as long as it is re-applied regularly.

LBJ, when I bought the car the paint was as bad if not worse than yours. I did a lot of research on riving single stage paint, and I don't remember all the details but I do now know the concept.

Basically the oxidation gets terrible because there is no clear to protect it, and red is, as you say, the most fragile color for some reason, so our cars are especially bad. That being said, single stage paint can almost always be revived as long as there is enough paint left on the car to do a heavy cut on it and then polish it back up progressively. Since mine was so bad, I wet sanded the upward facing surfaces with a two stages of sandpaper (I don't remember the grit # but there are tons of how-tos on YouTube, and that is how I did everything). This stage does the heaviest "cut", taking a large section of the top layer off the paint. From there I used the Meguiar's products and a buffer on the whole car, masking off the rubber, plastic and aluminum bits with painter's tape to prevent the polish from embedding into those surfaces. I started with a heavy compound and a wool pad, then moved on to a heavy polish, and a foam pad, then a mid polish then a final polish, moving to less abrasive foam pads each time. I got all this stuff from Harbor Freight and the Maguiar's products made it easy because they have the level of abrasiveness clearly marked on the polishes and compounds they sell. Then throw a whole lot of wax on it to seal it in. It is intimidating at first but makes perfect sense and there are tons of how tos available, just takes a lot of time!

Here's a time-lapse video I shot that shows the process working: https://youtu.be/AK03El5cSvQ

Here's what it looked like before:




Here are some pics of the process, I did not capture the wet-sanding unfortunately:



Done:

Your location says LA. Any liquid wax should flash off without issue.

You could (should?) go buy a random orbital buffer and wash then finish the car with that. Potentially get some iron-x and/or clay bar. Lots online on how to do it.

__________________
Current Diesels:
1981 240D (73K)
1982 300CD (169k)
1985 190D (169k)
1991 350SD (113k)
1991 350SD (206k)
1991 300D (228k)
1993 300SD (291k)
1993 300D 2.5T (338k)
1996 Dodge Ram CTD (442k)
1996 Dodge Ram CTD (265k)

Past Diesels:
1983 300D (228K)
1985 300D (233K)

Do you have a particular sealant to recommend? I have just been using wax but like the idea of something stronger. Do you have an opinion on ceramic coating single stage paint? It seems there is not much of a consensus on whether it works with single stage...

I’m partial to Carpro Cquartz UK on new cars. I may use this on my CD and SD, not entirely sure. There are quite a few sealants and SiO2 products out there now.

If you have no prior history with sealants, I’d start with Klasse All in One (AIO) after a #7 regimen. This will remove minor oxidation and provide a long lasting acrylic seal. They sell a sealant glaze that can go over that if you like.

I’m partial to the SiO2 spray and rinse products. There is no running whatsoever, and they act as a rinse aid, making drying faster and easier. These can be used when washing to extend the life of whatever wax or sealant you’ve applied.

__________________
Current Diesels:
1981 240D (73K)
1982 300CD (169k)
1985 190D (169k)
1991 350SD (113k)
1991 350SD (206k)
1991 300D (228k)
1993 300SD (291k)
1993 300D 2.5T (338k)
1996 Dodge Ram CTD (442k)
1996 Dodge Ram CTD (265k)

Past Diesels:
1983 300D (228K)
1985 300D (233K)