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W124 seat covers, to hog ring or not?
Hello all:
Curious as to what members have done when changing W124 seat covers, might apply to W126 as well. The 300TD mbtex covers were attached to the horsehair pad via square shaped hog ring type fasteners engaging steel rods on the seat cover but only going thru the horsehair pad, not attached to any of the springs or spring box frame that I can tell. So other than tightening the center section to the pad, I can't see a purpose for these. The square fasteners themselves are not hog rings nor compatible with hog ring pliers. I also understand that post face lift seats did away with the fasteners, but that could be to a seat redesign not sure. What have you done? Did you reuse the fasteners, and if so how? Some have suggested stitching with thick thread, did you attach to the pad only or to the spring subframe? Did you skip them altogether as not needed? Thanks |
The hog rings are necessary since they keep the mbtex in place against the pad and foam. I think over time without them, it would move around enough that it would start to look wonky. I've used hog rings and its a job. I would probably use a thick copper wire if doing it again. A good pair of small needle nose pliers is essential.
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I left out the hog rings between my seat bottom cover and horsehair pad. After reassembly I noticed two ripples on the front of the seat bottom that would have been taken up by the rings. This is on my w126.
Nobody but me notices. But I wish I had put them on because it bothers me. |
Thanks for the input
Thanks for the input.
I tried the factory fasteners again, but doing this solo is next to impossible, keeping the tangs straight and pushing thru to the other side to bend was a challenge. I opted to stitch the cover with some heavy cotton thread I had left over from a wheelskin steering wheel cover and used this to affix the cover to both the pad and the underlying spring frame. Opted for 6 stitches total 2 in the back, 2 mid, 2 forward. It was a lot easier to double loop the thread over the seat cover steel rods, through the pad and around a spring bar to hold tight. The net result in my case looks the same as it was dry fitted without the stitching, but for the reasons others mentioned above, I feel more comfortable that the covers are now sewn to the pad/frame. Will do the same for the other seat as well. FWIW, I also added a pool noodle to the passenger seat (the one I'm working on now) but rather than add it across the seat base, I cut 4 x 5-6 inch lengths and starting at the middle of each of the four coil springs, inserted them vertically into the center of each of the 4 spring coils. The noodle is a perfect diameter for the inside of the coils. It made a noticeable improvement in firmness while not detracting from the function, added foam shocks, so to speak. Easy to do, and one noodle will get you 2+ seats done, although I have the factory foam wedges in the drivers side. Thanks again |
The factory sells spring bolsters for taxi and livery use.
I've got a set of them in my 83 W123 that install the same way, and they make a big difference in firmness. Can you post some pictures of your seat rebuild? Tex or leather? Quote:
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Quote:
Set's me back a couple of weeks till it gets corrected and back in my hands. Will resume and post pics once the process is completed. I have found the seat bottom base MB HD in solid foam and was seriously considering that route, but in all honesty, the springy seats isolate so well, and even have a tendency to bounce a little and opposite what the chassis does in the rough stuff that I chose to stay with the factory foam inserts for the driver and noodles for the passenger....merely steerage ;) |
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