Hello all:
Curious as to what members have done when changing W124 seat covers, might apply to W126 as well.

The 300TD mbtex covers were attached to the horsehair pad via square shaped hog ring type fasteners engaging steel rods on the seat cover but only going thru the horsehair pad, not attached to any of the springs or spring box frame that I can tell. So other than tightening the center section to the pad, I can't see a purpose for these. The square fasteners themselves are not hog rings nor compatible with hog ring pliers.

I also understand that post face lift seats did away with the fasteners, but that could be to a seat redesign not sure.

What have you done? Did you reuse the fasteners, and if so how?
Some have suggested stitching with thick thread, did you attach to the pad only or to the spring subframe?

Did you skip them altogether as not needed?

Thanks

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Stable Mates:
1987 300TD 310K mi (Hans)
2008 Jeep Grand Cherokee OM642 165k mi (Benzrokee)

The hog rings are necessary since they keep the mbtex in place against the pad and foam. I think over time without them, it would move around enough that it would start to look wonky. I've used hog rings and its a job. I would probably use a thick copper wire if doing it again. A good pair of small needle nose pliers is essential.

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DS
2010 CL550 - Heaven help me but it's beautiful
87 300D a labor of love
11 GLK 350 So far, so good
08 E350 4matic, Love it.
99 E320 too rusted, sold
87 260E Donated to Newgate School
www.Newgateschool.org - check it out.
12 Ford Escape, sold, forgotten
87 300D, sold, what a mistake
06 Passat 2.0T, PITA, sold

Las Vegas NV

I left out the hog rings between my seat bottom cover and horsehair pad. After reassembly I noticed two ripples on the front of the seat bottom that would have been taken up by the rings. This is on my w126.

Nobody but me notices. But I wish I had put them on because it bothers me.

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79 300TD “Old Smokey” AKA “The Mistake” (SOLD)
82 240D stick shift 335k miles (SOLD)
82 300SD 300k miles
85 300D Turbodiesel 170k miles
97 C280 147k miles

Thanks for the input.

I tried the factory fasteners again, but doing this solo is next to impossible, keeping the tangs straight and pushing thru to the other side to bend was a challenge. I opted to stitch the cover with some heavy cotton thread I had left over from a wheelskin steering wheel cover and used this to affix the cover to both the pad and the underlying spring frame. Opted for 6 stitches total 2 in the back, 2 mid, 2 forward. It was a lot easier to double loop the thread over the seat cover steel rods, through the pad and around a spring bar to hold tight.

The net result in my case looks the same as it was dry fitted without the stitching, but for the reasons others mentioned above, I feel more comfortable that the covers are now sewn to the pad/frame. Will do the same for the other seat as well.

FWIW, I also added a pool noodle to the passenger seat (the one I'm working on now) but rather than add it across the seat base, I cut 4 x 5-6 inch lengths and starting at the middle of each of the four coil springs, inserted them vertically into the center of each of the 4 spring coils. The noodle is a perfect diameter for the inside of the coils. It made a noticeable improvement in firmness while not detracting from the function, added foam shocks, so to speak. Easy to do, and one noodle will get you 2+ seats done, although I have the factory foam wedges in the drivers side.

Thanks again

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Stable Mates:
1987 300TD 310K mi (Hans)
2008 Jeep Grand Cherokee OM642 165k mi (Benzrokee)

The factory sells spring bolsters for taxi and livery use.
I've got a set of them in my 83 W123 that install the same way, and they make a big difference in firmness.

Can you post some pictures of your seat rebuild? Tex or leather?

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1983 300D Midnight Blue
4 speed, W115 intake mani, non-EGR exhaust mani, KKK K26, 3 pc Euro bumpers, Lo-spec Euro headlights, AL129X, hubcaps, custom A/C

1987 300TD Smoke Silver
Euro headlights, thermostat relocation, coolant bypass mod, rebuilt Becker + Jehnert + Helix audio, OEM Oris roof boxes and surfboard racks, Euro towbar

1983 300TD Reed (Moss) Green / Dark Olive MB Tex Euro spec

1983 300TD Silver Blue / Blue cloth Euro spec, OM648 and 722.6, 15" hubcaps, W126 S2 brakes

Sure thing. It's Tex, started on the passenger side, unfortunately had to send the setback covers back to the manufacturer to get the correct "J" trim installed along the bolster verticles, effectively the last tabs that need to engage into the seatback cover to close it up. The covers had thick cardboard rather than the J trim plastic that would not fit into the seat back no matter what due to the thickness difference.

Set's me back a couple of weeks till it gets corrected and back in my hands. Will resume and post pics once the process is completed.

I have found the seat bottom base MB HD in solid foam and was seriously considering that route, but in all honesty, the springy seats isolate so well, and even have a tendency to bounce a little and opposite what the chassis does in the rough stuff that I chose to stay with the factory foam inserts for the driver and noodles for the passenger....merely steerage

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Stable Mates:
1987 300TD 310K mi (Hans)
2008 Jeep Grand Cherokee OM642 165k mi (Benzrokee)