Looking at 1993 300D

[rrgrassi]

Guys,

I am looking at getting back into a 300D. This one is a w124. Do not know a whole lot about it, yet. Waiting on pictures. I do know that it was a 1 family car. It is getting the turbo rebuilt by a shop in Ft Worth. Asking price is 3K. Supposed to have new tires...I know can cover suspension issues, and a new battery. Parent supposedly bought the car brand new for their daughter, and the father took it back over, and then recently passed away. The shop that has it is owned by a friend of mine, who I do trust.

So, I need to know the possible gotchas on the w124 OM602.

Thanks!

[filp]

I'm in Dallas, TX. I have the same car but with 3.0 engine swapped in.
There's a lot that can go wrong with W124 besides just the engine.
Check the transmission fluid and the way it shifts. It should go into reverse instantly.
That was the biggest issue with mine; it shifted into R after 2 seconds. Few months later I'd get flaring on every upshift.
Also, even though my suspension was good and tight, after 10 months of Dallas city roads, I had to do a complete front rebuild. Some day I just noticed one tire worn to steel threads...then a tie rod was loose, then something else...then a creak when turning sharply...etc. Front end is easy, if your lower control arms are good. IF not, it takes more time than one afternoon to do all. I have new Lemforder LCA bushing set that I can give you for free.
Check all wheel bearings and half-axleboots. Check the aux fan operation by taking off the plug from temp sensor or by jumping the receiver-drier pigtails. A lot of these are gunked up and don't work and it's a good negotiation point. Major PITA to replace.

I have been thinking about selling my car and buying a 300SDL (just like the aesthetics more), but now after thousands in new parts and hundreds of hours, I'm way too anxious, even to get a car that looks good.

Good luck

[WDBCB20]

Evaporators are a when not if issue 20hr job. Though it's possibly been done by now if the car has been used until recent?

[filp]

Originally Posted by WDBCB20

Evaporators are a when not if issue 20hr job. Though it's possibly been done by now if the car has been used until recent?

I think it's more W140 issue than W124, isn't it? Vacuum pods are common failure though.

[shertex]

These are great cars...I owned a 92 and own a 91 and have driven 180k miles between them. Even though I own a pair of CDI's, I often prefer to tool around in the 91.

Head gasket can need replaced around 250k miles. And, yes, evaporators a known weak spot.

FWIW I do some of my own work but farm out most to my mechanic. For someone like me you need to plan on about 20 cents per mile maintenance and repair.

ALSO, in MY93 there was a part of the production run where there were bad timing chains. Do a search and make sure the car you're considering is not among the affected cars.

[rrgrassi]

Originally Posted by shertex

These are great cars...I owned a 92 and own a 91 and have driven 180k miles between them. Even though I own a pair of CDI's, I often prefer to tool around in the 91.

Head gasket can need replaced around 250k miles. And, yes, evaporators a known weak spot.

FWIW I do some of my own work but farm out most to my mechanic. For someone like me you need to plan on about 20 cents per mile maintenance and repair.

ALSO, in MY93 there was a part of the production run where there were bad timing chains. Do a search and make sure the car you're considering is not among the affected cars.

How would I find out about the affected timing chain? Based on VIN or month of production?

[WDBCB20]

Originally Posted by filp

I think it's more W140 issue than W124, isn't it? Vacuum pods are common failure though.

The original evaps were made of two different metals (copper and aluminum unless I'm mistaken) leading to galvanic corrosion leading to leaks.

August '92 Mercedes switched to water based paint and started with the biodegradable wiring harnesses in '93 i.e. sparks and rust, respectively.

W124 are popular "youngtimers" in Germany. One of the leading German car magazines has an excellent article here on the model's strengths and weaknesses. Use google translate:
https://www.auto-motor-und-sport.de/oldtimer/mercedes-benz-w124-1984-1997-staerken-schwaechen/
__________________

[filp]

Originally Posted by WDBCB20

The original evaps were made of two different metals (copper and aluminum unless I'm mistaken) leading to galvanic corrosion leading to leaks.

August '92 Mercedes switched to water based paint and started with the biodegradable wiring harnesses in '93 i.e. sparks and rust, respectively.

W124 are popular "youngtimers" in Germany. One of the leading German car magazines has an excellent article here on the model's strengths and weaknesses. Use google translate:
https://www.auto-motor-und-sport.de/oldtimer/mercedes-benz-w124-1984-1997-staerken-schwaechen/
__________________

Thanks

[jbach36]

Originally Posted by filp

I'm in Dallas, TX. I have the same car but with 3.0 engine swapped in.
There's a lot that can go wrong with W124 besides just the engine.
Check the transmission fluid and the way it shifts. It should go into reverse instantly.
That was the biggest issue with mine; it shifted into R after 2 seconds. Few months later I'd get flaring on every upshift.
Also, even though my suspension was good and tight, after 10 months of Dallas city roads, I had to do a complete front rebuild. Some day I just noticed one tire worn to steel threads...then a tie rod was loose, then something else...then a creak when turning sharply...etc. Front end is easy, if your lower control arms are good. IF not, it takes more time than one afternoon to do all. I have new Lemforder LCA bushing set that I can give you for free.
Check all wheel bearings and half-axleboots. Check the aux fan operation by taking off the plug from temp sensor or by jumping the receiver-drier pigtails. A lot of these are gunked up and don't work and it's a good negotiation point. Major PITA to replace.

I have been thinking about selling my car and buying a 300SDL (just like the aesthetics more), but now after thousands in new parts and hundreds of hours, I'm way too anxious, even to get a car that looks good.

Good luck

My transmission has the 2 second delay (as did my 1988 300 coupe) going into reverse for years. I've owned my current benz for probably 12 years and it's done that ever since I got it with 89k on it. It now has 224k on it.

[jt20]

If the head is cracked... you're fkd

You likely cant tell from a test drive and they may have put something in the coolant to temporarily appease the issue.

poor chance of finding a replacement and an MB sourced replacement will outrun the cars worth.

[worse case scenario]

[rrgrassi]

Here is an update...the car is a 91. The shop pulled the turbo due to excessive oil in the intake. Turbo is not rebuildable. The seller, who I know well, said I can have the car for $600. I am thinking about pulling the trigger, but I need to find either a good, used turbo, or find out what kind of turbo upgrades I can do.

Thanks!

[tyl604]

The tires and wheels are worth that.

[rrgrassi]

I think I am going to pull the trigger. I am getting the turbo to use as a core. It will be an even swap...a 2003 VW Golf TDI, and a crated, used replacement engine for the 300D.

Seems like a good one to me!

[filp]

Originally Posted by rrgrassi

I think I am going to pull the trigger. I am getting the turbo to use as a core. It will be an even swap...a 2003 VW Golf TDI, and a crated, used replacement engine for the 300D.

Seems like a good one to me!

Read what's on the turbo CHRA.
Google interchange numbers.
Then search for them on ebay.
I bought a chinese CHRA for $200 and had no issues in over a year.
You can sell the old CHRA ("cartridge") on ebay too.
Alternatively, you can buy used original turbo and pay $400+ for rebuild + shipping.
Your car has the good wiring harness.
Good luck!

[rrgrassi]

Filp, good info!! I did find a used turbo on car-part.com listed at $275. Claimed to be grade A. We will see.