During the final prep for paint, I had noticed a little rust bubble appearing on the outside lower edge of the rear side wind seal and chose to investigate by removing the window and seal....what I found, was about 9 inches of window seal channel gone, rusted through, crud!


Arrg, this showed no signs either on the interior as it was hidden by the wheel arch carpet panel, but on disassembly and grinding, I was shocked at how much rust there was. Apparently, water has been getting into the channel for some time, although the seal was gooped in the MB non hardening glaze, both in the seal channel as well as the window/glass channel, all of that was not enough to keep the water at bay.


Currently, I have cut out the rusted areas, and started fabbing patch panels to commence the repair. I will be zinc treating the area well, and overlaying a 2k epoxy primer over the entire area when finished welding in the patches.

Note of caution to wagon, owners, inspect your rear window seals really closely and look for any signs of rust, as you will probably have some hiding, better to address sooner rather than later if the car is a keeper.

QUESTIONS:
I'm surprised that MB chose to use the glazing between the body and the seal, vs rubber trim adhesive/sealant. I understand the use of the glazing in the window glass channel, but not so much on the seal to body joint. For those of you who have done this type of repair, did you continue with the glazing as MB did, or did you opt for rubber seal adhesive instead? I wondering if the adhesive would be the better option to really affix the seal to the bodywork and forego future water penetration as occurred with the glaze?

Thanks,

Some pics below of the damage and patch panel fitting thusfar

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Stable Mates:
1987 300TD 310K mi (Hans)
2008 Jeep Grand Cherokee OM642 165k mi (Benzrokee)