190D Front shifter bushing

[dsvw]

I did not have any gear shifter bushings on my recently acquired 1986 190D with an automatic trans.
I picked up two today and was able to get the back bushing in. I boiled it in water to slightly soften it and used a spray silicone.

The front bushing...that is another story.
I can't see how it is possible to replace that bushing while the arm (I think the arm has 2 or 3 holes, the rod goes through the top hole) is sill attached to the car. I am trying to remove the arm but can not see how it is possible without cutting a hole in the floor

I removed the electrical connection going to the shifter underneath the car to buy me some more room.

The problem is, I can't even see how the arm is attached. I see what appears to be one hex type screw.

Does anyone know how that arm is attached and any pointers on how to get to it?

I could only find posts concerning this about other Mercedes models that look like there is a little more room up there to work.

Thanks, I am stuck!

[moon161]

If it's like the 5 spd manual, it's a 6 or 8mm allen key. I pulled the cap screw to locktite it and the insides shifted a bit and I needed to drill a hole in the transmission tunnel to get behind the cap screw and reassemble things.

That being said, I'd avoid loosening or removing the arm if possible. I usually find shift bushings pop in if you center it over the hole and then squeeze it in with a pair of pliers- one face side is pressing on the bushing, the other side on the far side of the shift lever.

If access is a problem, maybe long or double hinged needle nosed pliers will do it

https://www.harborfreight.com/13-in-long-reach-compound-joint-pliers-64108.html

[dsvw]

Thanks.

This was not an easy job but it was made much simpler by boiling the bushings for about a minute first. That made them a little more pliable to work with. I did not have the bushing type pliers so I used my long needle nose and worked it through the hole.

There is very little room to work up in there on the 1986 190D.

I ended up lowering the exhaust and dropping the engine and transmission a couple of inches.

It was still very tight but doable.

[cmac2012]

I know of which you speak. I had real trouble putting them on my 300SDL and 300D (W123). I also replaced the larger bushings at the base of the shift handle in the 300D so that me taking both ends out and doing them on the bench practical. I found out the special tool sold by that guy on the web work by pushing them in short of crooked. If you get one side in place, then the other side doesn’t have to stress is for her to follow suit.

But I had a devil of a time getting the shift arm back on the tranny on the 300D. The neutral safety switch on that model has a much simpler construction. It mounts onto the lever, a little toggle arm anyway. When I discovered that I had to remove it and do it again. Somehow I survived.