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1999 E300TD sending P0200 code constantly
Hey everyone. Working on my 1999 E300TD with the OM606 Turbo. Some background on the car, purchased recently with 270K miles. Since purchasing I have changed the oil/oil filter, changed radiator, and most recently pulled all injectors and pop tested. Two of the six injector nozzles are bad (I ordered new nozzles but they will take a month to get to me). The car runs great other than misfires while cold or if sitting in traffic a while at idle (I suspect this is due to the bad injectors)
I have been getting the P0200 code every 4 to 3 weeks and can not figure out what is causing it. More recently it started happening every 5 to 10 minutes of driving. The check engine light comes on and the engine is killed immediately making the car undriveable at this point. unfortunately I only have a standard OBD II reader so I dont know exactly what the P0200 code is. Everything Ive seen says you essentially can not buy the code reader for this car. Could the two bad injector nozzles be throwing the code? From what I understood, Since they are mechanical injectors they aren't able to throw codes to the ECM. But I could be mistaken. If its not the bad nozzles sending the code what else should I check for? Im not sure how I could check the ECM or IP but I could pick some up at a junkyard and replace. I would rather be certain I am replacing the right part though instead of blindly replacing parts and praying. Is there any other way to diagnose this car without the proper code reader? Can you purchase a code reader for under $300 for this car? Thanks in advance for any insight into this issue. |
UPDATE: I called my local indy Mercedes shop and they told me it would be $50 to read the check engine codes. I'm thinking I should do it. The only reason I am slightly hesitant to spend that money is if a bad injector nozzle can throw this code then it would be telling me something I already know.
Any one with an E300TD know if a bad injector nozzle is able to throw a P0200 code? or really any code for that matter Thanks for any insight on this |
No it shouldn't. That is the first I've heard of a check engine light coming on shuts the engine down. Get somebody that can hook up under the hood to tell you what the code is.
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From my research I am not the only one that has experienced the engine shutting down when the P0200 code is sent. when the P0200 code triggers I believe the ECM stops sending voltage to the IP. Again I am very new to this car and system so I could be mistaken with this information. Still trying to learn more about the EDC Injection pump. |
You want them to connect to the 38 pin connector on drivers side fuse box under hood.
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One thing, that will kill this engine dead, is the crank angle sensor failing. Lived it first hand.
See http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/3826850-post20.html this is the single post (#20) with the part number of the sensor. Entire thread, I went through quite a bit getting the issues sorted: http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/diesel-discussion/393787-w210-can-bus-issues-2.html P0200 in the OBDII “standard” is injector system malfunction. Well this vehicle has a mechanical injection pump with a drive by wire actuator. It does not have electronically controlled injectors like later engines. I would go to the MB dealer parts counter and order one of the sensors. It is fairly easy to change if you have the right tools. It’s directly below the oil filter on the end of the engine block (it senses the flywheel teeth). This may well solve your problem. |
Fuel quantity actuator at rear of pump.
The actuator is a solenoid that moves the injector fuel pump rod back and forth as you accelerate and or slow down---allows more or less fuel to be injected into the cylinders. |
Failure mode of crank sensor is typically engine starts and runs fine until it gets up to temp then it shuts down. After engine cool it starts and runs fine again. I have gotten to where I replace them as a preventive maintenance items about every 200k miles.
The p/n for crank sensor on 98/99 E300 is 203 153 74 28 64. |
Thank you so much everyone!
I am hoping when I find what the actual code is it will narrow down my search a lot. I should have time to get the codes read tomorrow and will follow up with my findings. Everyones input is making me feel a lot better as I was initially thinking this would entail swapping my complete IP or even worse the ECM. It is very good to know I can remove just the electrical components from the IP if needed. Replacing the crank sensor looks fairly simple as well once the intake manifold is removed. |
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http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/diesel-discussion/409528-how-clear-dtc-codes-1999-w210-e300d.html#post4120037 The OBDII connector on the 98-99 W210 diesels only passes a select list of engine and transmission codes, just enough to satisfy the rules that were in place at that time. Everything else has to go through the 38 pin connector. With the proper tool there is quite a bit of data that can be pulled not only from the power train, but also the body controllers and the climate system. |
An Autel system is the type I have.
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I also have one of Autel's smaller consumer units, I can't remember the model number but it was inexpensive at around $200. It works with the w210 but requires you to purchase separately their "intelligent 38 pin adapter" which is $150 more. Note you must use the more expensive "intelligent" adapter that has a black box hanging off it. Their lower-end diagnostic tools won't work on w210 with a passive adapter. Quote:
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Yes I can not justify spending $1300 on the diagnostic tool when the whole reason I purchased this car was to swap the engine in one of my W123s. That will probably be in a few years though and I was using this as my daily driver until this issue. Has anyone messed around with getting an older laptop that runs windows 10 and purchasing the diagnostic software for it? I see you can purchase some bootleg versions of mercedes diagnostic software fairly reasonable on ebay. This would be the cheapest route I have found if it even works as I would just need the software and an adapter cord. Has anyone tried this on an older W210? I feel like it would work fine on newer models but I'm not so confident it would work for my 1999, again I don't really know much about this so please excuse my ignorance. Also tried to get my codes read today, shop owner told me they would have time but I called before bringing it in today and the owner wasnt there and nobody else knew anything about it so they said they couldnt fit me in :mad: I guess that's all the more reason to either purchase the software or one of Autel's smaller consumer units Working on this car really makes me appreciate my older pre computer mercedes diesels haha |
UPDATE: I just returned from the Mercedes mechanic after getting the codes read. Here are the main three to be concerned with.
P1615 - Supply voltage of control module P1630 - Drive authorization P1330 - Starter Actuation "terminal 50" I will start my research right now via google and this forum to figure out what those codes mean and what parts to check/replace. Ill update further once the car is up and running again. |
More Updates
I have done a lot of research on the P1630 and P1615 codes. Unfortunately I was not able to come up with a straight answer for this issue. Due to this I will be noting everything I do on my repair to potentially aid someone else in a similar situation. What I have compiled so far is three things to check K40 Relay Box - Inspect solder joints on circuit board for back connections and resolder any burnt looking connections. My K40 looked OK but you could tell someone had already resoldered on the board so I ordered a new one to install, it is still in the mail EIS System - Key and Ignition system could be faulty shutting down the engine as an anti theft protection. This is likely my problem as I have had intermittent starting multiple times, especially when it is cold out. The generation 4 EIS is what is found the on 1999 E300TD and what I have read they can be the hardest to clone a new one. I will be reaching out to a few places that can clone these and see about getting a new one. IFI main ECM - The ECM could be faulty. all connections were checked and no corrosion is present. There are some voltage tests I still need to run in order to verify proper functionality Hope this helps any one with the same codes. I will continue to update this thread until the problem is corrected. Thanks. |
If you plan on keeping this car as is for a while, working on it yourself and continuing to drive it, you really should consider an appropriate "scan tool". Paying someone to read your codes every time the CEL comes on will quickly add up to the cost of a scanner. I have a '97 E300NA. As mentioned previously, the OBDII port under the dash is useless for digging into this car. Not all scan tools are ultra expensive and there's also the "used" market. I currently have the Autel DS708. It works very well with my car and also came with many adapters. Including the 38-pin for Mercedes. I bought it used a few years ago for around $300.
https://www.autel.com/autelcms/Discontinued%20Products/341.jhtml Not all stored codes affect proper operation of the vehicle. Some codes may be stored for any number of reason. Some are simply records of "events" that occurred and the computer is just keeping track. You never mentioned if your mechanic "cleared" the codes. IMHO, you need to clear your codes and see what comes back. Also, and this is just my opinion, you need to work on one problem at a time. Fix or remedy THAT problem, then move on to the next. Don't guess or assume or think "it's got to be this that's causing that". I believe this thread began with an "injector" problem. Fix that problem and eliminate it. Then move on to another issue. Working multiple problems at the same time is not the way to go. Just my 2 cents.... Oh, and, get a scanner. In the long run you'll be so glad you did. "buy once, cry once" Plus, you'll be able to use it on many other vehicles and problems. Maybe even "offer your services" (like your indy) and earn a little cash on the side. |
My apologies for posting in an older thread. I'd love to hear the outcome of kittenberger's research and how you resolved your problem with the engine shutting down and showing the P0200 code.
I have the same problem with my 1999 E300D (W210, OM606). The car starts fine when cold, runs until well warmed, then loses power, throws the CEL with the P0200 code, and promptly shuts down completely. When running, it has good power, no smoke, no performance problems. After it shuts down, it will not restart immediately. After 5--10 minutes of cool down, it will restart and I can drive it home. But the problem may happen again before I get home. From my reading on the forum I know that I need the more advanced 38-pin code reader to pull the detailed codes. I need to check the forum for how to buy a good used one or a less expensive setup. (I'm happy to spend a few hundred bucks for one, seeing as I have three of these cars with the OM606 engine, but $1300 is too pricey for me.) Any advice in this direction is appreciated. jaybob suggested replacing the crank angle sensor. I pulled that sensor off my parts car and I may try swapping it into the problem car. However, I saw on other posts that if the crank sensor is the problem, a different code would likely be thrown. I like Murkybenz's suggestion to look at the fuel quantity actuator. My parts car has a working injection pump and I could swap over the actuator. However, it appears that the entire rear section of the pump needs to come off to gain access. Thanks for any help you can offer. |
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