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  #1  
Old 06-27-2022, 08:49 PM
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1984 300D: Bowden cable removal and install issues....

I'm trying the Kent method of removing the old bowden cable and installing a new one. I've got the car up on jack stands. I placed some good lighting under the car and went under to take a look and to clean up the transmission end of the bowden cable.

I sprayed Sam's Club purple degreaser liberally on the fitting, waited ten minutes then wiped clean with a rag. I then used a small wire brush to try and clean the backside of the bowden cable connection. After that I used compressed air to blow any dirt and debris from around the fitting.

Now for the good part; as I'm sure many are aware, the exhaust pipe runs close to the right side of the transmission. This tends to block access to the transmission end of the bowden cable. I don't like the idea of dropping the exhaust pipe just to swap the cable. Does anyone have any ideas/methods that might make this part of the job go a little easier?

Thank you for any input!

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  #2  
Old 06-27-2022, 09:33 PM
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I found another thread that mentions removing the transmission cross member so the transmission can drop lower. The thread also mentioned removing the fan shroud and disconnecting the throttle linkage PRIOR to dropping the transmission down.

Another question; I found one video where a guy pulls the bowden cable out of the transmission on a 190 and a LOT of transmission fluid immediately begins to leak out of the transmission! Do I need to drain the transmission fluid out of both the pan and the torque converter BEFORE I pull the bowden cable loose from the tranny?
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  #3  
Old 06-28-2022, 01:37 PM
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anyone have any ideas on this? I especially need to know if pulling the transmission end of the bowden cable out could cause the transmission to leak fluid.......
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  #4  
Old 06-28-2022, 10:59 PM
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I wish I remembered, someone here should .
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1982 240D 408,XXX miles
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  #5  
Old 06-30-2022, 12:17 AM
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Since I don't like cleaning up transmission fluid off the concrete, I'm leaning towards draining all the tranny fluid before removing the rear transmission support, etc etc to install the Bowden cable. Although a 300D is not a 190, the video of transmission fluid leaking out of the 190 bowden cable end is etched in my mind.......
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  #6  
Old 06-30-2022, 09:29 AM
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Maybe half a cup will drain.
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1984 300D: Bowden cable removal and install issues....-resize1656595615240.jpg  
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  #7  
Old 07-01-2022, 11:17 AM
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I figure with the rear transmission support removed much of the fluid will move towards the rear of the pan. I would think that would eliminate most of the drainage out the hole in the transmission the bowden cable plugs into.....
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  #8  
Old 07-01-2022, 02:08 PM
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It may be instructive for the OP to study the construction and function of cables using the Bowden design.

https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Bowden_cable
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  #9  
Old 07-01-2022, 08:49 PM
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Thumbs up Thinking Ahead

" Since I don't like cleaning up transmission fluid off the concrete, I'm leaning towards draining all the tranny fluid"

Very good plan husky man ~ I dislike that too but it's just a part of the J.O.B. for me .

In any case, unless you personally have changed all the ATF (including the torque converter) in the last three years it's likely due anyways .

Let us know how it came out, O.K. ? .
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1982 240D 408,XXX miles
Ignorance is the mother of suspicion and fear is the father

I did then what I knew how to do ~ now that I know better I do better
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  #10  
Old 07-01-2022, 10:28 PM
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Yes, the transmission fluid needs changed. That said, I'm thinking of taking this in steps.

1. Replace and adjust the Bowden Cable.

2. Replace and adjust transmission modulator valve

3. Drain and replace transmission fluid.

I've read about people who tried to do all three at once and wound up chasing multiple gremlins trying to properly adjust everything. I figure I can more easily isolate problems when it comes to adjusting the transmission by replacing the foregoing items one step at a time.
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  #11  
Old 07-02-2022, 12:10 AM
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Post A _PROPER_ Plan Of Action

You're going in the right direction but in the wrong order .

#1 : HOT ATF and Filter change and don't neglect the torque converter .

#2 : HOT TEST the internal pressure then adjust the modulator if necessary , it's an easy job *if* you have jack and safety stands or are willing to drive the two passenger side wheels up onto a high curbstone .

#3: now maybe replace the Bowden cable, unless it's damaged or frayed ypu may well discover it's fine .

The order in which you proceed will determine if you chase your tail or not .

No matter what this is going to be a somewhat oily and messy job .

I like to keep my running gear all clean and dry, whenever I pop the hood folks tell me how dry it all iss but that's only when compared to other Diesels .

Anyways YOU can do this at home using basic tools .

For undercar works I have coveralls, I only wear underclothes when I'm using overalls , no point in ruining good clothes ,

Overalls and / or work togs are always available cheaply used, thrift stores etc. and buy baggies, not close fitting clothes / coveralls .

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-Nate
1982 240D 408,XXX miles
Ignorance is the mother of suspicion and fear is the father

I did then what I knew how to do ~ now that I know better I do better
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