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#1
05-01-2023, 09:15 AM
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om617 won't idle down in w126 car
My neighbor has a w126 that has been sitting for years. he got it running on an auxiliary tank (because who knows the condition of the car's tank) and once it gets going, it wants to run away until you starve it of fuel. I'm no guru but I've driven and worked on these a bit and can't figure it out.
With it sitting so long, is there something in the pump that could be stuck that might break free with some cleaner? is the Air/fuel control that is operated by boost pressure somehow stuck in the full boost position? Is there a fuel screw i don't know about. I've worked more recently on Bosch VE pumps for my truck so that power screw comes to mind. What's a likely problem here? Just brainstorming for now. He got this going a few weeks ago so the system has had fresh fuel in it for a while now. Thanks.
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'82 240D 224K miles manual transmission mods: wooden 4by4 bumper, EGR delete and older EX manifold without EGR port, glass pack muffler (cheapest replacement muffler), rebuilt bosch injectors with Monark nozzles working on: aux electric fuel pump, coolant/fuel heat exchanger/filter head, afterglow, low oil pressure buzzer/LED 
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#2
05-01-2023, 09:56 PM
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Possibility the rack that controls the amount of fuel injected is stuck. A side plate on the injection pump can be removed for inspection. Penetrating oil might get it freed up with a little care.
Not a terribly odd situation after sitting a long time. Site archives should find you what is needed.
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#3
05-03-2023, 08:26 PM
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1,200 rpm is about max. idle before pump goes full. Pop off link to pump arm, ck if pump
is on stop. Very unlikely that low speed enrichment aneroid is stuck,spring return, boost pressure to enrich. Idle speed is adjustable on vertical screw, with slot head atop pump lever stop. Minor adjustment is fine.
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#4
05-04-2023, 12:03 AM
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Mine wasn’t that bad, but when I had the cruise control system installed on my w140, it was slow to return to idle when the unit was cold, and so the rpm’s would fly away, or at least drop slower than they should.
Id remove all linkages to the cruise control and see what happens…
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Current Diesels: 1981 240D (73K) 1982 300CD (169k) 1985 190D (169k) 1991 350SD (116k) 1991 350SD (206k) 1991 300D (228k) 2008 ML320 CDI (199k) 1996 Dodge Ram CTD (442k) 1996 Dodge Ram CTD (267k) Past Diesels: 1983 300D (228K), 1985 300D (233K), 1993 300D 2.5T (338k), 1993 300SD (291k)
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#5
05-29-2023, 05:32 PM
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Quote:
All the linkages are removed at the moment. It's been a while, and my friend had put in a good bit of fuel additive in the 5 gallon aux tank we're running off of, so I wonder if the rack inside pump is possibly freed up now.
__________________
'82 240D 224K miles manual transmission mods: wooden 4by4 bumper, EGR delete and older EX manifold without EGR port, glass pack muffler (cheapest replacement muffler), rebuilt bosch injectors with Monark nozzles working on: aux electric fuel pump, coolant/fuel heat exchanger/filter head, afterglow, low oil pressure buzzer/LED
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#6
05-29-2023, 05:59 PM
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Quote:
My bet would be on external factors, not the pump, unless some spring is missing.
__________________
Current Diesels: 1981 240D (73K) 1982 300CD (169k) 1985 190D (169k) 1991 350SD (116k) 1991 350SD (206k) 1991 300D (228k) 2008 ML320 CDI (199k) 1996 Dodge Ram CTD (442k) 1996 Dodge Ram CTD (267k) Past Diesels: 1983 300D (228K), 1985 300D (233K), 1993 300D 2.5T (338k), 1993 300SD (291k)
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