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W115 300D Starting Problems
Hi all! New here, I am trying to get my 1975 300D back on the road after its winter hibernation. A little backstory on the car: I bought it last spring and got it running after 8-10 years of sitting. Changed the engine oil, transmission fluid and filter, both fuel filters and ran a can of LiquiMoly Diesel Purge through the fuel system. The car started hard when cold, and had the classic lumpy idle. In addition, it idles very low when cold, so much so that it will die unless I hold the throttle down a little for the first few minutes.
A couple of weeks ago I pulled the injectors out and pop tested them: only one out of the 5 had both a decent spray pattern and the correct opening pressure. I rebuilt them with new nozzles and set the opening pressure to 1650-1700psi. Yesterday I spent the better part of half an hour trying to bleed the fuel system and get the car running. When I finally succeeded the engine blew huge clouds of white smoke out the tailpipe for a few minutes and still idled really low. I took it for a 20 minute drive to try and evacuate the rest of the air in the system. Today the car wouldn't start again and bubbles came out the injector fittings when I cracked them while cranking the engine over. Now for the questions: Is there a better method for bleeding the fuel system? So far I have pumped the primer until stiff and then cracked the injector fittings while cranking until I get fuel coming out. Which of the two fuel lines on the IP is the feed line? I suspect there is an air leak into the fuel system and would like to replace the feed line with some clear hose to check. I have read mention of a rack damper bolt that often needs to be replaced, is this something I should look into? Can someone point me to a good thread on adjusting the idle speed? From what I can tell the "proper" method is to adjust the governor inside the IP, but pulling the IP apart is not something I want to get into. I have tested the glow system and it seems to still be working fine. |
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