I'm thinking of purchasing this C-press kit. Do you think it will work for installing the lower control arm ball joints for the 1984 300D turbo?


https://www.ebay.com/itm/285442430917

I bought a similar-looking C-press at Harbor Freight Tools, perhaps from the same factory. Bought after using the free-rental one at Autozone since saw it on sale at HF and didn't want to repeat the 2 drives to AZ next time. I think I used the HF one, but forget since I owned two 300D's at the time so forget what I did to which (I do keep log books). Sold the 1984, so no more confusion.

When pressing in the new ball-joint with the AZ press, I could see the frame bending, which was scary, though I don't think it was permanently distorted. Later, I read Rollguy's trick of "tighten, tap loading screw end with big hammer, repeat". It seemed the new ball-joint was slightly larger diameter than OE. Perhaps intentional so it won't be loose in the bore. In contrast, it was fairly easy to remove the OE lower ball-joints - just a large socket and a big hammer. Place the end of the spindle (upside down) on concrete, sitting on plywood or scrap brake pad. Helping hands who trust you to not bash them with the hammer is good. I tossed the rubber boots that came with the balljoint and used polyurethane boots instead (Energy Suspension, from kit for my 1965 Dodge Dart).

I've seen photos of a special adapter to use a hydraulic press, which should be easier. A thick steel tube with an oblong side hole for the spindle arm to stick out. If a shop replaces balljoints regularly, might be worth fabbing one (or buy if can find).

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1984 & 1985 CA 300D's
1964 & 65 Mopar's - Valiant, Dart, Newport
1996 & 2002 Chrysler minivans

OK. The press will not remove the old ball joint. There is only a cylindrical piece of metal to use as a punch to hammer on to remove it from the steering knuckle. Heat with a propane torch in that area of the steering knuckle can be helpful.

As long as the hole on the autozone free rental press is not distorted or otherwise buggered up you can use it and not have to buy one.

That being said I have 2 C-presses one for harbor freight and one from Pitbull. They both work but are not as good as the OTC one that autozone used to rent. But that was many years back now.

None of the tubes that came with the kits worked for me.

I did not do this but wished that I had. At the top of the picture, you see a red arow pointing to between the top of the ball joint and between the C-clamp. What should have been between that is a thick steel washer. I was too lazy to buy the washer I needed and grind out the inside of the hole in the washer so it would slide over the ball joint shaft. As a result of being lazy it was more trouble to get the ball joint installed.

The yellow arrow points to an adapter from the kit. I used that with the cupped side facing the bottom of the ball joint incase as I was pressing in the ball joint it protruded from the bottom of the steering knuckle.

http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/attachments/diesel-discussion/79893d1271818536-ball-joint-nightmare-chapter-2-bj-c-press-3-x.jpg

I added a pipe coupling on the bottom to make sure the ball joint could be pushed out below the surface of the bottom of the steering knuckle of that was needed. However you may have a tube in the kit for that purpose.

http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/attachments/diesel-discussion/79894d1271818575-ball-joint-nightmare-chapter-2-bj-c-press-4-x.jpg

Note the C-presses are wobbly in the threaded aera. Some are tighter than others but the is still a lot of clearance in that area.

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84 300D, 82 Volvo 244Gl Diesel

Where are you?
I have the press tube, and tricks to get the old ball join out easy.

Also have several spring compressor kits if needed.

F.Y.I. the ball joint isn’t in the lower control arm, it is in he spindle assembly. For anybody reading this that isn’t aware.

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John HAUL AWAY, OR CRUSHED CARS!!! HELP ME keep the cars out of the crusher! A/C Thread
"as I ride with my a/c on... I have fond memories of sweaty oily saturdays and spewing R12 into the air. THANKS for all you do!

My drivers:
1987 190D 2.5Turbo
1987 560SL convertible
1987 190D 2.5-5SPEED!!!

1987 300TD
2005 Dodge Sprinter 2500 158"WB
1994GMC 2500 6.5Turbo truck... I had to put the ladder somewhere!

This is the method I am thinking of using to remove the ball joint.


https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=NwdCLLVUk50

Your choice. A lot of persons including myself don't have a cutting torch. I used a propane torch to heat up the outer parts of the joint and put the arm into a well mounted large vice and used a large socket and like a 2-pound hammer beat it out.

Anyway, there is methods in the repair links.

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84 300D, 82 Volvo 244Gl Diesel

Here is a couple good threads on BJ R&R.

Red neck BJ R&R

https://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/diesel-discussion/321615-red-neck-lower-ball-joint-removal.html

Write up on Ball Joints etc....

https://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/diesel-discussion/179284-write-up-ball-joints-lower-control-arm-bushings-tool-review-pics.html

The official MB Ball Joint press in $299 - $600 depending who sells it.
Pelican Parts is one of the highest. came across a couple sites selling them pretty cheap.

https://biofreear.live/product_details/99217010.html

https://biofreear.live/product_details/99217005.html

https://biofreear.live/shopping_cart

Can`t find a price on this one, I bought it 10 yrs ago for $99

https://kinetikautotools.com/products/mercedes-benz-w213-w126-w220-ball-joint-installer-tool

Search on Google for the part #`s and they come up fairly reasonable once in a while.


Charlie

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there were three HP ratings on the OM616...

1) Not much power
2) Even less power
3) Not nearly enough power!! 240D w/auto

Anyone that thinks a 240D is slow drives too fast.

80 240D Naturally Exasperated, 4-Spd 388k DD 150mph spedo 3:58 Diff

We are advised to NOT judge ALL Muslims by the actions of a few lunatics, but we are encouraged to judge ALL gun owners by the actions of a few lunatics. Funny how that works