Access to where the bowden cable connects to the right side of the transmission is restricted by the exhaust pipe. I removed the two bolts connecting the exhaust pipe mount to the transmission; the exhaust pipe will now only move a half an inch or so.

I am at a point where there appears to be two possible solutions:

A. Use a map gas torch to loosen up the bolts connecting the front half of the exhaust pipe to the rear half of the exhaust pipe. This would allow me to move the front half (about four feet or so of exhaust pipe coming directly off the turbo charger) over to the right of the car allowing access to the bowden cable.

B. remove the rear transmission mount, throttle linkage from the engine and fan shroud allowing the transmission to lower (also, I would place a bottle jack under the tranny for controlled lowering) allowing better access to the bowden cable connection.

What say you, A or B or both A and B?

if you follow diesel mercedes man at 3:30 on the video, you can see the point where he is going to disconnect the front half of the exhaust from the rear half. I am planning on doing exactly that to separate the two exhaust pipes. Then, I am planning on physically moving the front section (part attaching to the engine) over to make the room to access the bowden cable connection.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=OhxtDHiLYs8

Is there any risk of breaking anything when I move the front pipe towards the side of the car? I am planning on being very gentle with it when I move it over probably only a few inches - just enough to give me clearance to where the bowden cable attaches to the transmission.

Transmission Bowden Shift Control Cable Removal and Replacement

When you go to the link in the below thread it will take you to a page were there is some lists and cautions.

The thing about the transmission end of the bodwen cable is I can't remember how it attaches inside the transmission. You may have to drop the pan to release and attach it but I cannot remember.

https://www.benzworld.org/threads/source-of-info-on-transmission-bowden-shift-control-cable-removal-and-replacement.3143933/

I believe it would be a good idea to search the 'repair links' part of the forum and see if you can find an example of who has changed a bowden cable.

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84 300D, 82 Volvo 244Gl Diesel

I did the Bowden on my 85SD a long time ago and caution that there are at least 2 different part numbers and they are VIN specific. 85 was the change over year for the 126 so confirm your PN before dropping the pan.

It's possible to install without dropping the pan but not for me the 1st time doing the job. It's a good excuse to change the filter and fix the leaking turbo drain tube anyway.

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85SD 240K & stopped counting painted, putting bac together. 84SD 180,000. sold to a neighbor and member here but I forget his handle. The 84 is much improved from when I had it. 85TD beginning to repair to DD status. Lots of stuff to do.

Thank you for your responses. That said, my first problem is moving the exhaust pipe out of the way so I can gain access to where the bowden cable attaches to the passenger side of the transmission.

at 3:30 on the following video you can see the two pipes I am planning on separating. This should allow me to physically move the front section of the pipe over and out of the way to allow access to the bowden cable connection. I do not want to break the exhaust pipe where it connects to the flexible section that connects to the rear of the turbocharger.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=OhxtDHiLYs8

In my experience the only sure fire way to avoid breaking the flexible joint is to release or unbolt it from the back of the turbo. If you think about it by separating the pipes at the rear of trans and moving that pipe out of the way that flex joint is your ONLY point of movement. I know unbolting the downpipe is not the easiest option but trust me it makes a world of difference. You don't have to completely remove the 3 nuts and clamp ring just loosen enough to allow movement then use a wood block or similar blunt instrument and hammer as close to the joint as possible from whatever angle works best (bottom, top, side, differs from model to year) to break the seal so to speak. Avoid using a prybar. Do this after disconnecting the mid-car connection and the rear transmission clamp and take your time choosing your preferred whacking position. Look and think about how the blow will affect the pipe. You just need one solid whack in the right spot and the pipe will break loose.

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1987 300TD Turbo 5-spd
1991 350 SD Turbo (Frankenstein 603.970 crank, rods and head on a .50 bored 603.963 block )
1982 300D euro 617.951, 4-spd
2003 E500

2000 GMC C2500 6.5 TD (Double ott, ex DOT truck)
1980 Scout Traveller SD33T (Resting!)
1997 GMC K2500 Burban 6.5 TD (mid engine rebuild)

thank you thank you thank you; this is the exact information I need to proceed with this project!