The 1981 240D had a random no start condition that seemed worse when the engine was hot. The solenoid would not kick in.

I finally replaced that starter with a brand new Advance Auto starter, and the same problem still exists! Usually, but not always, starts from cold, but will more often not start after driving a while and stopping.

I previously cleaned and polished the battery terminals and ground, and the wires that connect to the starter and solenoid.

Could the ignition switch be the problem, or is this a frequent condition of Advance Auto Starters? Is there anything between the ignition switch and the solenoid? BTW, it is a 4 speed, so no neutral safety switch.

Thanks again for all the helpful advice

Guessing you got a bum rebuilt starter from Advance. Start carrying a 2X4 with you and when it happens again, clonk starter with the 2X4. If it starts, you have a bad solenoid.

Temporarily wire a 12V bulb to the starter solenoid wire that comes from the neutral safety switch/ignition switch and to ground. Position the bulb so it can be seen whilst cranking. If the bulb lights and no crank it is the starter/solenoid. If the bulb doesn't light and no crank, there is a problem in the neutral safety switch/ignition switch circuit.

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"Rudeness is a weak man's imitation of strength" - Eric Hoffer

On automatic transmissions equipped cars if the shifter bushings are worn or missing it can mimic a bad neutral safety switch.

Post number 2 shows a picture of where to connect a remote starter switch on the starer solenoid.

61x starter wiring

Pictures of 2 types of remote starter switches. Harbor freight sells them.

If the starter always cranks using the remote starter switch it is as in the other post. Ignition switch, neutral safety switch or a shifter busing issue or some combination of any or all of those.

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84 300D, 82 Volvo 244Gl Diesel

I attached a good heavy wire to the solenoid terminal that i can touch to the +battery post. So far, every time the solenoid has failed to activate turning the key, the hot wire did the trick.

So i am pretty sure there is some resistance in the ignition switch, and hopefully the starter is OK.

A Simple solution to these older cars with deteriorated wiring is to wire in a relay close to the starter. Run a #12 wire from the battery connection at the starter to pin 30. Ground pin 86. Connect old solenoid wire to pin 85 and connect solenoid to pin 87. This is how many of these older cars have been done. If you are old enough to remember the Corvair, they were rear engines. The long run between the battery in the rear and the ignition switch in the front then back to the starter solenoid would cause a "hot soak" no start and we modified them by the hundreds to fix that. The theory is that the relay requires a small voltage and low current whereas the starter mounted solenoid requires much more. as the wires corrode and the ignition switch ages internal resistance increases causing a loss of voltage to the solenoid. Adding the relay negates that.

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Retired
ASE Master Car / Light Truck
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"Without Fleet The Pride Doesn't Ride"

1983 300SD 609K + still going strong!
1970 Monte Carlo
1994 Ford F150

One of the contact points on my ignition switch was burn off and the actual arm was what was making contact.

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84 300D, 82 Volvo 244Gl Diesel

I think i will rig a separate push button switch to connect the hot wire i already installed on the solenoid to the + terminal on the battery. I think it will need to be a switch capable of at least 10 amps.

IMHO, it is always preferable to have the original starter rebuilt by a reputable auto electrics restorer than to install a "rebuilt" unit from pretty much any parts store.

If by some chance you still have the original starter, I would highly recommend that you return your Advance Auto starter and have the original rebuilt.

Keystoner, i think i have bypassed the problem with a hotwire direct to the solenoid, which seems to work every time if the key operated starting does not.

It is such a PITA to change the starter, especially in the dead of winter, that i think i will go with the hot wire, and maybe an auxiliary pushbutton. Since the problem is apparently in the ignition switch wiring, i think a rebuilt quality unit will have the same problem.

But i am definitely saving the old Bosch starter for next time. It needs a solenoid.

If hot wiring the starter solenoid cranks the engine, the starter and solenoid are good. Is this an automatic or manual transmission car?

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"Rudeness is a weak man's imitation of strength" - Eric Hoffer

This is *exactly* why I insist on only BOSCH branded rebuilt units .

The 'Hard Start Relay' is a very good D.I.Y. patch, google it to see how simple it is and how to wire it correctly .

The relay needed will need to be rated above 30 amperes .

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-Nate
1982 240D 408,XXX miles
Ignorance is the mother of suspicion and fear is the father

I did then what I knew how to do ~ now that I know better I do better

It's good that you still have the original starter.
You are free to do as you please. But as I've already said, I highly recommend taking it to a reputable auto electrics rebuilder where you hand them the part over a counter, and they hand it back to you later having been rebuilt.

Even the Bosch stuff has declined in my experience.
I worked at a shop about 7 years ago that had an '83 VW GTI in for service. It needed an alternator. The owner of the shop was going to get an Ultima unit from O'Reilly and install it. Well, I yelled and screamed and kicked dirt and insisted that a Bosch Reman unit go into the car. Well, they bought it, and I installed it and it put out all of 9 volts. Did the job again with an Ultima, 14 volts. Great.

This is only one example, but I've had other lackluster experiences with Bosch reman stuff. I'm sure it's still a better bet than just about anything else, however I have yet to be disappointed by a unit that I've had rebuilt by my local auto electrics guy. Again, just one person's experience.

Thought i had a decent starter, and the hotwire saved having to pull the damn thing in this weather.

Today i was in town, and when i started it, there was a funny noise that kept going til my next stop. Next time i tried to start it,only a grinding noise.

Apparently the solenoid didn't disengage and in just a mile wore its teeth off. Second time that has happened on this car ('81 240D). Previous time was with a Pep Boys starter.

Is this a common failure mode? Or is there some underlying problem that made it happen TWICE?