![]() |
|
|
|
|
#1
|
|||
|
|||
Glare auto polish polisher question.
OK, I used the Sam's club degreaser 50/50 with water on the white W126. I went over it twice in some areas and over all the car looks better. There are still some stubborn diesel soot spots that I believe may take more effort to remove.
Enter Glare Auto Polish Liqui-Clay I came across this company a few years back and they have some good reviews on the internet. I've had the product on hand for a few years but have not yet tried it out. https://www.glare.com/ this detail company in santa rosa california uses their products (the customers seem quite pleased): https://blsautodetail.com/ My issue is the price of their polishers. I've attached a photo of one of their polishing pads, it is quite large with a 3/4 inch hole in the center for attaching to (I assume) one of their quite expensive polishing machines. I am wondering if anyone might have any ideas for a less expensive option to use with the glare polishing pads?? |
#2
|
|||
|
|||
I hated my white paint on my 84 SD so much I ripped the om617 engine/trans/wiring out of it and put it in my 85 300SE body. I know exactly what you're going through.
As previously said, a bucket of water with ammonia and Ivory Liquid will break the oil down and it will rinse off. After that I'd wax the car with Meguires (SP) finish wax (by hand)and it would look presentable. It's a 5 hour, $20 job.
__________________
84 300SD 85 380SE 83 528e 95 318ic |
#3
|
|||
|
|||
I just spoke with a top notch detailing company. They say that sometimes machine polishing can either burn through paint or cause swirling. They recommend using towels and microfiber cloths as much as possible when applying polish.
They also said to use a standard clay bar for the white W126 to cut through the diesel soot. |
#4
|
||||
|
||||
If you use a random orbital polisher, there is no problem with burning the paint. I would give that a try. I have been polishing my '99 300SD for over thirty years with one that I purchased from Sears (remember them?) and have never had a problem.
|
#5
|
|||
|
|||
the guys I spoke with use Rupe brand polishers. It looks as though Rupe offers orbital polishers. Rupe appears to be a professional brand company targeting the professional detailer.
I've kinda lined my needs based on whether I am going to use a product, tool or machine for my own personal use once or twice a year or a month versus starting a full fledged full time business. Or.....you could purchase a pro grade polisher, put your card, quickie website and brochure out there and line up 10 - 20 detail jobs to pay for your extra nice orbital polisher. Once you complete the ten to twenty cars, trucks or SUVs, close your doors and use the polisher for yourself. Or, rent the tool out to your friends. https://www.rupes.com/category-product/electric-tools/electric-tools-bigfoot-polishers/ Last edited by qualified-merc; 01-12-2025 at 03:12 PM. |
#6
|
|||
|
|||
I'm not a fan of power polishers either. While some of the old classics from Sears may well work and not damage paint, the gap between cheap junk and premium has become too wide now to risk using anything aside from a professional product like the one linked.
So the other option is to do the exact opposite to the stated plan and just take the car to a professional to have it polished once in awhile. This may turn out cheaper than the professional tool and be a lot less work too ![]()
__________________
1993 300D 2.5L Turbo |
#7
|
||||
|
||||
![]() |
Bookmarks |
|
|